12v Coil

[kevin]

I have a slight issue with the singer when shes hot.
I reckon it may be down to one of 2 things so I need to eliminate both issues.
1 issue may be the fuel pipe and in-line filter getting too hot from the radiator top hose, I can rectify this by shortening the fuel hose line.
2nd issue may be the coil breaking down when hot, so, what replacement coil do I need and more importantly where from?
It needs to be 12v, compatible with electronic ignition and have spade type connections.

Kev

[mr rusty]

Any 12v coil should do, they're all much of a muchness, the connections are generally swappable too....best place? local spares shop.However, it's most likely to be fuel- modern fuel doesn't like getting too hot. Do you have an aftermarket electric fan?

I put an end to this sort of nonsense on my Vitesse by ditching the kenlowe that was fitted by a previous owner and reverting to a mechaniucal fan. There's not a lot of space under a Vitesse bonnet, most of it is full of hot engine - the mechanical fan moves a lot more air around the carbs than the useless kenlowe ever did, and it does it all the time. No more embarresment with hot starts!

[kevin]

I think its fuel too, re-positioning the fuel filter and hose further away from the rad hose should help, will swap the coil for a new one as it cant hurt.
Only reason I ask about where to buy one is Ive heard of so many poor quality items being bought, so looking for a decent make/supplier.


Kev

[suffolkpete]

Coils tend to come in two flavours, points ignition and factory-fitted electronic ignition, the difference being in the primary resistance. If your electronic ignition is after market, then you probably need a coil intended for points ignition.

[Richard Moss]

It's worth bearing in mind that a faulty rotor arm can short out the coil and over heat it. That happened on my MGC GT a few times before k realised what was causing it.

[kevin]

playing devils advocate, what happens if you fit a coil designed for electronic ignition to a points ignition system?

will it induce poor running or break down?

Kev

[mr rusty]

what happens if you fit a coil designed for electronic ignition to a points ignition system?

...nothing much as they're pretty much the same, assuming you mean the retro fit electronic systems for old cars, and you'll also find the tin-can traditional style coil lived on well into the days of multipoint injection before being superceded by individual coil packs.....

People who sell electronic ignition will also try and sell you a coil with a fancy name and call it a 'flame thrower' or a 'sports' coil, but they're all the same inside the can. Some may produce a bit higher voltage by virtue of having more secondary winding, but nowhere near enough to destroy a set of points- it's more a marketing thing than anything else.

[TerryG]

There is however no substitute for a decent quality coil. I have a couple of cheapo Chinese ones for testing but always run Bosch coils on my cars.

[Pavel]

TerryG has the nub of it -- use only a Bosch coil. They are more expensive, but worth it for peace of mind. There are, however, 3 types; their standard coil [which I used in the 70s on my 3c Gazelle], a Sports, which even with E.I. would be a waste of money, and their resistive one which, if you have the standard 12volt ignition set up, wouldn't last very long.
As an important aside; your coil -- all coils -- should be mounted away from the engine, preferably on the sidewall where it can be cooled by the ram air from the car's front.

Fuel percolation problems [vapour lock] are invariably caused by heat transfer from the engine. Here in Oz the Triumph 2000/2500 saloons suffered this problem because the metal feed pipes were, in places, attached to the cylinder head. This problem was solved by replacing the metal pipes with rubber fuel hose and running it along the inner wings and in front of the radiator to the carbies.

Pavel

[kevin]

so, would this coil be a good replacement?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12v-Genuine-B ... 1e7f263885

Kev