cellulose paint spraying

[mbaird]

The weather is getting warmer and I'm at that restoration stage (a last) where I want to re-spray my car. I'm planning on using cellulose paint, but was wondering if there is an ideal temperature (or minumum) at which I should be applying the paint. I don't want to start too soon if warmer weather is going to result in a better finish.

Thanks

[suffolkpete]

I reckon about 60 deg. F or 15 deg. C. And make sure you use a fast thinners.

[Luxobarge]

As above, but that's an absolute minimum IMO.

Probably more important it the humidity - 15 degrees is just about OK on a really dry day, but if it was 15 degrees and raining you'd get condensation problems and blooming. Mind you I'd avoid a rainy day at pretty much any temperature unless you've got an air-conditioned booth.

Cheers

[mbaird]

Thanks for the advice... weather not quite warm enough yet, but getting there

[1275midget]

no rain is the most important. and no fog.

I sprayed my midget 2 weekends ago when it hit a high of 9 degrees. it worked absolutely fine, and I put more coats on last weekend when it was about 12-13 degrees c. I had no blooming and used anti-bloom thinners, but standard thinners at about 70-30 thinners paint for the top coat. No runs, no blooming.

it's not perfect, but I wasn't expecting it to be, but there are no horrid paint defects or anything like that. I guess time will tell if it's worked properly, and I'm leaving it a bit before polishing.

the only thing would be the warmer the weather the more thinners you can get in the topcoat so the shinier it is out of the gun. But seeing as I'm rubbing mine down and cutting it back as I didn't do some bits as well as I could have done, this doesn't make a lot of difference to me.

seems to have worked OK

[m.thaddeus]

Hello There

10 degrees is the absolute min for painting, but 15 is much easier as the paint will harden that much quicker and so not run as much. ~Humidity is a real issue as blooming will spoil the finish, but it buffs out without too much effort. If you are not an experienced painter the chances are that you will be polishing afterwards anyway. ~That's a lie, nearly all of us will be polishing afterwards.
The thing about Celly is to ladle it on, flat it down with 1500 wet, and then bring it up with a compound such as 3M Finnesse.

[bubs]

Why would anyone in there right mind use cally anymore? I've done 2 full cars and 2 partials in 2k now, And I'd never ever look back.

All I have is a standard double garage, a couple rad fans enclosed into a box as extraction, a fliter mask bought at the paint shop for £32, that they assure me is more than adequit, and I do know of a body shop that uses the same mask for around 4 resprays or repairs a month.

Even in late october last year, I painted the side of the BM, layed it on thick, left it for a week looking like it had been roller painted, and flatted it back to a mirror shine....I know it was as hard as a coffin nail, cause when I stuffed it into the crashs barrier of the M54/M6 in december, the paint proper split and cracked off Should have used etch primer on the wing

[TerryG]

ouch! did you walk away from that ok?

[Willy Eckerslyke]

Why would anyone in there right mind use cally anymore?

I guess some of us prefer the more traditional look you get with cellulose. 2K might be easier, but it often looks plain wrong on classics. And if we wanted an easier life we probably wouldn't be driving classics anyway.

I sprayed a couple of panels for my P6 over the weekend. Sticking to the warmest part of the afternoon for the top coats, I'm quite pleased with the results. I risked one last coat when the temperature was dropping past 13 degrees C and seemed to get away with it - no sign of blooming.

[mr rusty]

For those of us who don't have a garage and are doing our painting in the front garden or by the roadside cellulose is really the only option. It's main benefit is that it's initial drying is so quick, it keeps the dead bugs to a minimum. It's also pretty safe apart from the risk of catching fire in storage.

I wouldn't be happy using 2k in the open air, or for that matter in a closed booth either without an air fed mask

a fliter mask bought at the paint shop for £32, that they assure me is more than adequit, and I do know of a body shop that uses the same mask for around 4 resprays or repairs a month.

...........don't believe them bubs!! They may have got away with it so far but it won't last.

A horror story from another forum: http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/show ... hp?t=14051.......sounds like he was using a mask pretty much the same as yours ..I also recall someone on the old forum here doing it and having a trip to A&E suffering some pretty nasty side effects, can't recall who it was though!

I remember when 2K was a new thing and everyone was terrified of inhaling the fumes, it seems like people have got a bit complacent about it now because lots of people didn't die using it, but the risks are still very real.