daimler 250 v8 1967 recomissioning

[lhubbard]

Hi guys

well spent the weekend taking off props etc.

props

well i discovered that the central mounting plate for the propshafts was infact only being held on by one bolt so could actually move about. Secondly all the rubber mountings for the central bearing were so decayed they fell appart. I believe the knocking on rotation was caused by the prop moving about instead of being confined by these mountings. All are on order and will be replaced.

The prop Ujs showed no noticable play in them but I thought I would replace as a matter of course as the prop was out.

I think the clunk in the engage is caused by the prop twisting out of alighnment on engagement. any thoughts there?

gear box
I also removed the gearbox bottom tray to inspect the gear box oil and filters. The fluid looked a very dark red with evidence of gray particles in it. I will clean and change the filters as well as replace the fluid.

Also discoved the spedo cable has no central core so that will also be replaced.


cheers

lee

[harvey]

I think the clunk in the engage is caused by the prop twisting out of alighnment on engagement. any thoughts there?

That could well be the cause, but it needs changing anyway so do that and see what it's like afterwards.

I will clean and change the filters as well as replace the fluid.

Only use fluid that meets Ford spec. M2C-33F or G. Do not use any of the Dexron fluids.

[lhubbard]

Dear Harvey

many thanks for the advise I will make sure I follow it. I have now stripped down all the prop shafts ready for replacement UJs to be put in when they arrive. I also aquired new rubber mountings and will rebuild the central propshaft unit this weekend with these new parts.

thanks for the tip on the transmission fluid I will make sure I get your recommended version.

best regards

lee

[Wicksy]

I think your Daimler will have the BW35 tranny My experience with that box on a Jag XJ6C and a Leyland Princess 2200 is that they are a bit clunky. Drive line "shunt" when egaging drive is always there and the drop down into first can also be a clunk. I have experimented with slowing the idle RPM down and of course always have the brakes firmly applied but it still thumps.
Harvey may disagree and say they can be made to be perfect but I suspect this would involve many £'s worth of new parts and rig setting which may not be worth it to get the small improvements.
The 35 is an old design, lets face it - my modern car has a silky smooth electronically controlled auto which is always going to be better than a device which controls changes using governor pressure, spring tension and only has three speeds
On the bright side I noticed a definate improvement in changes after replacing the fluid and also by regular use. My Princess had very low usage before I bought her but it now does about 5K per year and the change is much slicker.
I bet you can't wait to get the car on the road. keep the buletins coming - they are very interesting

[harvey]

I think your Daimler will have the BW35 tranny My experience with that box on a Jag XJ6C and a Leyland Princess 2200 is that they are a bit clunky. Drive line "shunt" when egaging drive is always there and the drop down into first can also be a clunk. I have experimented with slowing the idle RPM down and of course always have the brakes firmly applied but it still thumps.
Harvey may disagree and say they can be made to be perfect but I suspect this would involve many £'s worth of new parts and rig setting which may not be worth it to get the small improvements.
The 35 is an old design, lets face it - my modern car has a silky smooth electronically controlled auto which is always going to be better than a device which controls changes using governor pressure, spring tension and only has three speeds
On the bright side I noticed a definate improvement in changes after replacing the fluid and also by regular use. My Princess had very low usage before I bought her but it now does about 5K per year and the change is much slicker.

It will be a BW35.
The BW35 was never fitted to the XJ6C.
Princess' have a 35TA with a Morse drive between the engine and box IIRC, so lots of scope for play in the drivetrain and engine mountings.
With careful adjustment of the idle speed and kickdown cable I've never come across one that couldn't be made to engage gear satisfactorily, and remove the clonk on the closed throttle 2-1 downshift. They will never have seamless changes or engagement.
By the standards of the time (1961) it was a very good box, and if they're sorted properly they still are.
Pretty much everything responds to regular use.
The more I look at them the cleverer I think they are. All that they do is done from only three imputs. How much computer power does a modern box use to keep it going?

PS. As a matter of interest, IIRC the Daimler V8 was the first UK BW35 equipped car.

[Wicksy]

Got to agree with you Harvey, wasn't knocking the BW35 by the way and as inferred, simple devices have advantages over high tech.
I have tried lowering the idle and yes the clunkiness improves but if you go too low on my current car the engine will sometimes stall on gear engagement with a hot engine.
I have found sticking to the recomended idle gives good upward and downward changes but the egagement at rest is still a little thumpy - as you say the morse chain interface will not help

[lhubbard]

Hi guys

with the weather so terrible I have not had much chance to get under the car and get the prop back on. I have replaced all the mounting rubbers on the centre bearing and also replaced all the UJs on the prop shafts.

now need a day when its not below zero to get them back on again

is anyone planning to go the the spring auto jumble at Beulieu? maybe a meet up?

lee

[lhubbard]

Hi t
well.finally a day.to get stuff tdone. refitted prop shaft with new ujs and mounting buses and aligned using propshaft tool. also refitted seats and replaced some trim that was damaged but the leaking mathere cyclinder. also refitted refurbed heater and tested. very smooth now with new bearings. just got to refill the gear box and its ready for testing.

lee

[lhubbard]

hi there guys

do any of you know the correct fitting for the gearbox oil cooler on my dailmer. Its the fitting that attach the cooler pipes to the gear box housing.

cheers

lee

[harvey]

hi there guys

do any of you know the correct fitting for the gearbox oil cooler on my dailmer. Its the fitting that attach the cooler pipes to the gear box housing.

cheers

lee

See here;

http://www.rover-classics.co.uk/images/ ... an_jpg.htm

2 off part no 154868

That's for a Rover but yours should be the same. I have two if that's of use, and have replied to your PM.