Maaarrghk wrote:BZP are OK for 2 to 3 years outside, then they start to rust. The zinc coating is only very thin as it is applied by electrolysis rather than by dipping in a big vat of molten zinc.
Couldn't have put it better It's a harsh environment under a Land Rover.
kevanf1 wrote:It's a very oily environment under a Land Rover.
That's more realistic.
When i'm replacing bolts on mine i use stainless ones from B&Q where the torque settings aren't relevant.
Understeer: when you hit the wall with the front of the car.
Oversteer: when you hit the wall with the back of the car.
Horsepower: how fast you hit the wall.
Torque: how far you take the wall with you.
With mine it doesn't matter, the diffs, power steering, gearbox and engine all have their rust prevention system turned up to full! One day i'll get round to fixing them.
Understeer: when you hit the wall with the front of the car.
Oversteer: when you hit the wall with the back of the car.
Horsepower: how fast you hit the wall.
Torque: how far you take the wall with you.
I intend to turn the taps off on the few oil gushers on mine Actually, I'd be worried if I had an oily environment at the rear of the wings. That would mean a major oil leak from the steering box
Mine failed it's MOT on PAS fluid peeing out of the box. After some magic stuff tipped in the top it stopped the leak but has ruined the pump. I have a new box and pump waiting to go on when I feel like crawling under the car getting covered in PAS fluid again.
I also need to replace the pas and transmission fluid pipes that go to the radiator as they are all leaking at the joins. Land rover should sell drip trays!
Understeer: when you hit the wall with the front of the car.
Oversteer: when you hit the wall with the back of the car.
Horsepower: how fast you hit the wall.
Torque: how far you take the wall with you.
It's a harsh environment under a Land Rover.
Actually, I'd be worried if I had an oily environment at the rear of the wings. That would mean a major oil leak from the steering box 