panel beating
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johnoconnell
- Posts: 1
- Joined: Mon Sep 26, 2011 10:42 pm
panel beating
there's just two thing i would like to know about panel beating and they are when you get a new car panel do you have to totaly take the black paint off the panel that's on it when it's new?and what sand paper do you use when rubbing down filler's,especially lead filler's?thank's john.
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m.thaddeus
- Posts: 120
- Joined: Sun Mar 13, 2011 2:49 pm
Re: panel beating
Hello there.
Have you seen the latest issue of the mag, I covered some of this in my aerosol painting article.
Anyhow.
1. If the new panel is covered in a proper 'phoretic' primer, which is hard black paint, then you should not remove it, at most give it a key with 180 production paper and then a coat of a good quality primer. The least you can get away with is to key it with a red skotchbrite pad before painting.
If you panel has come with a coat of matt black ( posing as proper primer ) then far and away the best thing you can do is to remove it. It will come off with a wipe of thinners - which the real thing will not touch.
2. Lead filler is taken down with a panel beaters flexible body file. It is usual to then use a fine stopper to get the final surface. Be sure to remove any traces of tallow before filling.
Personally I dont use tallow as it is messy and interferes with the adhesion of the lead.
Modern polyester fillers are best cut with 80 grit production paper. In the past we would use 40, but it is clumsy, and does a lot of damage. Newer fillers are lighter and easier to cut, so at very worst use 60, but to be honest if it is that rough you would be better off using you bodyfile or a surform before using 80 for the real shaping. When you filler is to shape give the repair a skim of a fine stopper and take this down with 120 production.
Use 180 to take down any paint edge around the repair and primer the repair with a hi-build primer. Take this down with wet and dry ( use wet with soap and a rubber block). either 400 grt for white only, 600 for flat colours, and 800 for base and clear or metallics. Spray a dusting of matt black or any non -glossy paint onto the primer after it has dried ( but while it is still masked) this will fall into any flatting marks and so allow you to flat them all away.
Hope this helps, feel free to contact me for more info. I could recommend a good book on the subject.
Have you seen the latest issue of the mag, I covered some of this in my aerosol painting article.
Anyhow.
1. If the new panel is covered in a proper 'phoretic' primer, which is hard black paint, then you should not remove it, at most give it a key with 180 production paper and then a coat of a good quality primer. The least you can get away with is to key it with a red skotchbrite pad before painting.
If you panel has come with a coat of matt black ( posing as proper primer ) then far and away the best thing you can do is to remove it. It will come off with a wipe of thinners - which the real thing will not touch.
2. Lead filler is taken down with a panel beaters flexible body file. It is usual to then use a fine stopper to get the final surface. Be sure to remove any traces of tallow before filling.
Personally I dont use tallow as it is messy and interferes with the adhesion of the lead.
Modern polyester fillers are best cut with 80 grit production paper. In the past we would use 40, but it is clumsy, and does a lot of damage. Newer fillers are lighter and easier to cut, so at very worst use 60, but to be honest if it is that rough you would be better off using you bodyfile or a surform before using 80 for the real shaping. When you filler is to shape give the repair a skim of a fine stopper and take this down with 120 production.
Use 180 to take down any paint edge around the repair and primer the repair with a hi-build primer. Take this down with wet and dry ( use wet with soap and a rubber block). either 400 grt for white only, 600 for flat colours, and 800 for base and clear or metallics. Spray a dusting of matt black or any non -glossy paint onto the primer after it has dried ( but while it is still masked) this will fall into any flatting marks and so allow you to flat them all away.
Hope this helps, feel free to contact me for more info. I could recommend a good book on the subject.
Re: panel beating
Not meaning to hijack this post but speaking of a certain good book on the subject when is the revised edition out please Martin ?
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m.thaddeus
- Posts: 120
- Joined: Sun Mar 13, 2011 2:49 pm
Re: panel beating
Hello again
Sorry for not replying sooner.
The revised edition is now due in November. I am waiting for the final proofs on PDF -so that I can update the index, then its off to the printers.
Got some nice new stuff in it, and I honestly think that any one chapter is worth the price of the book.
Regards Martin
Sorry for not replying sooner.
The revised edition is now due in November. I am waiting for the final proofs on PDF -so that I can update the index, then its off to the printers.
Got some nice new stuff in it, and I honestly think that any one chapter is worth the price of the book.
Regards Martin