In my experince LPG does not go off, which I guess makes sense because the tanks are sealed and the volatile portions which boil off with petrol can't escape, I have used gas that has been in a tank for a couple of years with no issue.
Mine are only single point systems though, I prefer the simplicity of these.
1994 Range Rover
Re: 1994 Range Rover
I've just removed my single point. It is a KME Bingo S with an OMVL vaporiser, the wiring is a bit of a mess (contributing factor to me removing it) but if you would like it, it is free. Same for a 120l tank which is probably half full.
I suspected as much. I have 3 tanks now one is definitely empty as it is brand new, the other 2 are about 2/3 full.
There is quite a lot of configuration still to do as all I have done so far is set what type of engine is connected. once I have fixed the leak i'll have a play with the setup and fix it.
I suspected as much. I have 3 tanks now one is definitely empty as it is brand new, the other 2 are about 2/3 full.
There is quite a lot of configuration still to do as all I have done so far is set what type of engine is connected. once I have fixed the leak i'll have a play with the setup and fix it.
Understeer: when you hit the wall with the front of the car.
Oversteer: when you hit the wall with the back of the car.
Horsepower: how fast you hit the wall.
Torque: how far you take the wall with you.
Oversteer: when you hit the wall with the back of the car.
Horsepower: how fast you hit the wall.
Torque: how far you take the wall with you.
Re: 1994 Range Rover
So, the car is running OK (nothing an Italian tuneup won't fix) and the interior is almost fully re-assembled. Various annoying electrical issues sorted and even EAS working as it should (for the benefit of any member of the RRR reading this thread as I know you do, the engine hasn't run in a couple of weeks and the car is still at the correct height, if yours drops you DO have a leak (or a dodgy sensor))
I was having a prod around last week clearing drain holes and discovered the base of the n/s b pillar was made of crud rather than metal. Pic after I attacked it with a punch and a hammer. Annoying but not a big deal. I made up a repair ready to cut out the crud and weld on this weekend.
It took longer than I expected to remove my sill trim as every screw holding the lower edge in place was made of rust so I had to cut them all off. I plan on replacing them with captive nuts and bolts anyway so future work will be a bit easier and it should help prevent more rust taking hold.
I was expecting to find some issues behind plastic trim as I think it's the law that all cars are made of air anywhere the MOT man hasn't been able to check for 20 years.
Unfortunately "some issues" translate to an extreme lack of metal. Some poking and the area under the rear door apart from the very back 4" is solid. From the B pillar forwards it's just rust and air.
After some fun with my grinder this is what came off. There is much more in need of cutting out but after measuring the metal (1.89mm?!?!) I don't have anything in stock to replace it with so I have stopped and ordered 2 square meters of 2mm steel (as I'm assuming the drivers side is just as bad) to replace it.
Looks like next Sunday is going to be a VERY busy day.
I was having a prod around last week clearing drain holes and discovered the base of the n/s b pillar was made of crud rather than metal. Pic after I attacked it with a punch and a hammer. Annoying but not a big deal. I made up a repair ready to cut out the crud and weld on this weekend.
It took longer than I expected to remove my sill trim as every screw holding the lower edge in place was made of rust so I had to cut them all off. I plan on replacing them with captive nuts and bolts anyway so future work will be a bit easier and it should help prevent more rust taking hold.
I was expecting to find some issues behind plastic trim as I think it's the law that all cars are made of air anywhere the MOT man hasn't been able to check for 20 years.
Unfortunately "some issues" translate to an extreme lack of metal. Some poking and the area under the rear door apart from the very back 4" is solid. From the B pillar forwards it's just rust and air.
After some fun with my grinder this is what came off. There is much more in need of cutting out but after measuring the metal (1.89mm?!?!) I don't have anything in stock to replace it with so I have stopped and ordered 2 square meters of 2mm steel (as I'm assuming the drivers side is just as bad) to replace it.
Looks like next Sunday is going to be a VERY busy day.
Understeer: when you hit the wall with the front of the car.
Oversteer: when you hit the wall with the back of the car.
Horsepower: how fast you hit the wall.
Torque: how far you take the wall with you.
Oversteer: when you hit the wall with the back of the car.
Horsepower: how fast you hit the wall.
Torque: how far you take the wall with you.
Re: 1994 Range Rover
Do you ever get bored of finding MORE problems?
I don't get as much time as I would like to work on this which isn't helped by family commitments but I thought I was almost finished fixing rust holes. Just the drivers side b pillar bottom which I had made the bit for, a postcard size bit on the drivers side bulkhead and the L section that supports the wiring loom under the car were all that remained on the rust fixing to do list.
I got to the car this morning to find the passenger foot well full of water.
Poking about and about 2" further up the bulkhead from where I had repaired the floor, what looked like metal was rust held together with structural paint. Another day of poking and I have cut out about an a4 piece of paper in size worth of "metal".
I am having another phase of being sick to death of the never ending quest to eradicate rust.
I don't get as much time as I would like to work on this which isn't helped by family commitments but I thought I was almost finished fixing rust holes. Just the drivers side b pillar bottom which I had made the bit for, a postcard size bit on the drivers side bulkhead and the L section that supports the wiring loom under the car were all that remained on the rust fixing to do list.
I got to the car this morning to find the passenger foot well full of water.
Poking about and about 2" further up the bulkhead from where I had repaired the floor, what looked like metal was rust held together with structural paint. Another day of poking and I have cut out about an a4 piece of paper in size worth of "metal".
I am having another phase of being sick to death of the never ending quest to eradicate rust.
Understeer: when you hit the wall with the front of the car.
Oversteer: when you hit the wall with the back of the car.
Horsepower: how fast you hit the wall.
Torque: how far you take the wall with you.
Oversteer: when you hit the wall with the back of the car.
Horsepower: how fast you hit the wall.
Torque: how far you take the wall with you.
Re: 1994 Range Rover
Mine was similar with the added complication of many previous bodges, you'll get there eventually, just keep cutting and welding. I always find spring helps with the longer warmer days.
Re: 1994 Range Rover
Really pleased I rediscovered this thread. I remember reading this with great interest in 2013/2014.
Yesterday I picked up my project, a Soft Dash LSE in Ardennes green. Today I removed the sill covers and the front carpets and insulation, and the body is much more solid than I expected which was a nice surprise (it has been sitting for 12/13 years!). The sills and post bottoms just need patching, along with a couple of holes in the bulkhead and footwells. I haven't been able to get to the boot floor yet as the tailgate has rusted shut.
Hopefully in a year or so it will be back on the road.
Yesterday I picked up my project, a Soft Dash LSE in Ardennes green. Today I removed the sill covers and the front carpets and insulation, and the body is much more solid than I expected which was a nice surprise (it has been sitting for 12/13 years!). The sills and post bottoms just need patching, along with a couple of holes in the bulkhead and footwells. I haven't been able to get to the boot floor yet as the tailgate has rusted shut.
Hopefully in a year or so it will be back on the road.
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Re: 1994 Range Rover
It looks like you've found a twin for mine
I've all but finished rust repair on the car in this thread now. I just need to sort out some pictures of the work completed and get them posted.
Make sure you have a good poke as a lot of what looked like good steel on mine had rotted from behind and was paper thin.
If you need softdash specific parts then you need to get to know Paul at Atkinson Bespoke Engineering. He is having various late range rover parts remade as most off the shelf items you can get are for the early cars and require lots of customisation to fit.
Good luck!
I've all but finished rust repair on the car in this thread now. I just need to sort out some pictures of the work completed and get them posted.
Make sure you have a good poke as a lot of what looked like good steel on mine had rotted from behind and was paper thin.
If you need softdash specific parts then you need to get to know Paul at Atkinson Bespoke Engineering. He is having various late range rover parts remade as most off the shelf items you can get are for the early cars and require lots of customisation to fit.
Good luck!
Understeer: when you hit the wall with the front of the car.
Oversteer: when you hit the wall with the back of the car.
Horsepower: how fast you hit the wall.
Torque: how far you take the wall with you.
Oversteer: when you hit the wall with the back of the car.
Horsepower: how fast you hit the wall.
Torque: how far you take the wall with you.
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