1994 Range Rover
Re: 1994 Range Rover
3rd way; give it a splash of satin black Rustoleum. Job done and cheap to fix if you get it scuffed.
J
"Home is where you park it", so the saying goes. That may yet come true..
"Home is where you park it", so the saying goes. That may yet come true..
Re: 1994 Range Rover
I'll have a go at it later and see what happens. I picked up some more sand paper on the way home so I can see what happens with a wipe over and some fresh primer. It will be sitting about for a month or so before I put top coat on it so hopefully if it is going to react again it will show in that time. That last reaction was instant.
Understeer: when you hit the wall with the front of the car.
Oversteer: when you hit the wall with the back of the car.
Horsepower: how fast you hit the wall.
Torque: how far you take the wall with you.
Oversteer: when you hit the wall with the back of the car.
Horsepower: how fast you hit the wall.
Torque: how far you take the wall with you.
Re: 1994 Range Rover
I got the DA out tonight (about an hour ago, with a workmate on the drive way, sanding my door back with a DA. It gets some very funny looks from people going past)
Anyway, I have found that at some point in history this door has been re-painted to repair some small dings to the door. 2 about the size of 50p pieces and one about twice the size of a £5 note. none of them deeper than 1/8" but all having filler over paint then more paint on top. Unsurprisingly, all underneath the places where the paint reacted (bloody thing).
As the door is in 3 sections I decided only to take the middle where the reactions were back to metal as I have already spent several hours filling and sanding several small dents from the top section.
half an hour to sand it back to metal (80 grit on a DA goes through paint like a hot knife through butter), 5 minutes to fill it. tomorrow night sanding (AGAIN) and possibly another skim of filler if required then etch prime.
I love bodywork :S
Anyway, I have found that at some point in history this door has been re-painted to repair some small dings to the door. 2 about the size of 50p pieces and one about twice the size of a £5 note. none of them deeper than 1/8" but all having filler over paint then more paint on top. Unsurprisingly, all underneath the places where the paint reacted (bloody thing).
As the door is in 3 sections I decided only to take the middle where the reactions were back to metal as I have already spent several hours filling and sanding several small dents from the top section.
half an hour to sand it back to metal (80 grit on a DA goes through paint like a hot knife through butter), 5 minutes to fill it. tomorrow night sanding (AGAIN) and possibly another skim of filler if required then etch prime.
I love bodywork :S
Understeer: when you hit the wall with the front of the car.
Oversteer: when you hit the wall with the back of the car.
Horsepower: how fast you hit the wall.
Torque: how far you take the wall with you.
Oversteer: when you hit the wall with the back of the car.
Horsepower: how fast you hit the wall.
Torque: how far you take the wall with you.
Re: 1994 Range Rover
Pics to follow shortly as I have left my phone in the garage.
Today's job was to flat down and finish getting my new door ready for top coat. it is currently scratch and dent free sitting in filler primer ready to paint when my green paint arrives
Another irritating problem that has been irritating me for months, my NSR EAS sensor occasionally drops out but by the time I have stopped to investigate, the fault has cleared. It did it on the driveway today so I took the sensor off, put a meter across it and twisted, bashed and shook it to see if it would go wrong. nope. put it back on and it went straight in to fault mode, some more testing and there was no resistance reading at the ECU from that sensor so I resigned myself to chasing wiring faults. I (stupidly) started at the ECU end, going through testing after every branch in the loom and it was fine all the way up until the socket to connect the sensor in to. I took the socket apart and all 3 wires were just lumps of corroded copper. unfortunately it is not repairable so I now have 3 spade terminals in place of a plug and lots of electrical tape keeping them dry until I can find a donor loom to cut a plug from. Frustrating but at least my dashboard looks more RR than Disco now
Today's job was to flat down and finish getting my new door ready for top coat. it is currently scratch and dent free sitting in filler primer ready to paint when my green paint arrives
Another irritating problem that has been irritating me for months, my NSR EAS sensor occasionally drops out but by the time I have stopped to investigate, the fault has cleared. It did it on the driveway today so I took the sensor off, put a meter across it and twisted, bashed and shook it to see if it would go wrong. nope. put it back on and it went straight in to fault mode, some more testing and there was no resistance reading at the ECU from that sensor so I resigned myself to chasing wiring faults. I (stupidly) started at the ECU end, going through testing after every branch in the loom and it was fine all the way up until the socket to connect the sensor in to. I took the socket apart and all 3 wires were just lumps of corroded copper. unfortunately it is not repairable so I now have 3 spade terminals in place of a plug and lots of electrical tape keeping them dry until I can find a donor loom to cut a plug from. Frustrating but at least my dashboard looks more RR than Disco now
Understeer: when you hit the wall with the front of the car.
Oversteer: when you hit the wall with the back of the car.
Horsepower: how fast you hit the wall.
Torque: how far you take the wall with you.
Oversteer: when you hit the wall with the back of the car.
Horsepower: how fast you hit the wall.
Torque: how far you take the wall with you.
Re: 1994 Range Rover
As a big package from woollies arrives on Friday, I started the day working out how to remove the vinyl trim from my D pillars.
Unfortunately as my car is made by Land Rover, it had some rusty surprises for me.
To remove the side vents, you have to take the inner trim of the D pillars so the spare wheel had to come out. Not the end of the world and can be repaired fairly easily.
Seeing some rust marks on the wheel arch seams I pulled the carpet off the wheel well to see.
Unfortunately these vents are not factory I am also REALLY glad I haven't had an accident with anyone sitting in the back as this is the seat belt mounting point (or lack of it) after I pushed on some rust blisters with a screwdriver The only blessing is these panels are really cheap at £25 per side. It looks like next weekend won't be spent renovating leather but adding new steel instead. At least the weather is nice and I can do a large percentage of these repairs from inside the car rather than on my back under it! It also gives me the opportunity to re-attach the other wheel arch panel which I have just noticed is tack welded along the top edge rather than spot / plug welded as it should be.
I will have to move / remove the LPG tank and all the rear interior carpet / seats just to prevent any welding related (or large explosions as I don't fancy sitting next to a gas tank when it explodes).
Unfortunately as my car is made by Land Rover, it had some rusty surprises for me.
To remove the side vents, you have to take the inner trim of the D pillars so the spare wheel had to come out. Not the end of the world and can be repaired fairly easily.
Seeing some rust marks on the wheel arch seams I pulled the carpet off the wheel well to see.
Unfortunately these vents are not factory I am also REALLY glad I haven't had an accident with anyone sitting in the back as this is the seat belt mounting point (or lack of it) after I pushed on some rust blisters with a screwdriver The only blessing is these panels are really cheap at £25 per side. It looks like next weekend won't be spent renovating leather but adding new steel instead. At least the weather is nice and I can do a large percentage of these repairs from inside the car rather than on my back under it! It also gives me the opportunity to re-attach the other wheel arch panel which I have just noticed is tack welded along the top edge rather than spot / plug welded as it should be.
I will have to move / remove the LPG tank and all the rear interior carpet / seats just to prevent any welding related (or large explosions as I don't fancy sitting next to a gas tank when it explodes).
Understeer: when you hit the wall with the front of the car.
Oversteer: when you hit the wall with the back of the car.
Horsepower: how fast you hit the wall.
Torque: how far you take the wall with you.
Oversteer: when you hit the wall with the back of the car.
Horsepower: how fast you hit the wall.
Torque: how far you take the wall with you.
Re: 1994 Range Rover
Cor, I'd more than a bit upset at discovering that after all the work done so far
On the plus side, at least as you say, it's easy enough to sort without scrabbling around underneath.
On the plus side, at least as you say, it's easy enough to sort without scrabbling around underneath.
Re: 1994 Range Rover
Well, I attacked the spare wheel well with a grinder to remove all the thin / holed metal
Now, finally on to the job I had actually planned on doing today.
I removed the vinyl trim from the passenger side D pillar (I was going to do both but metal work took priority today) as it has a split in it replacing it was surprisingly easy although not the neatest job in the world, I am quite pleased with my first attempt And now I am going to soak in the bath!
then filled the new spare wheel cooling duct with metal as I realised that spare wheels don't get all that hot
As the passenger side was quite so bad, I thought it would be a good idea to check the drivers side. Fortunately the seat belt mounting is fine
However there is no shortage of extra ventilation
My amp / sub is on that side so some extra air flow might have done it some good (or not as the case may be)Now, finally on to the job I had actually planned on doing today.
I removed the vinyl trim from the passenger side D pillar (I was going to do both but metal work took priority today) as it has a split in it replacing it was surprisingly easy although not the neatest job in the world, I am quite pleased with my first attempt And now I am going to soak in the bath!
Understeer: when you hit the wall with the front of the car.
Oversteer: when you hit the wall with the back of the car.
Horsepower: how fast you hit the wall.
Torque: how far you take the wall with you.
Oversteer: when you hit the wall with the back of the car.
Horsepower: how fast you hit the wall.
Torque: how far you take the wall with you.
Re: 1994 Range Rover
My last update was a few weeks ago so despite the weather preventing me doing huge amounts of work, some has been done.
After removing my LPG tank, the rear seats, rear carpets, sound deadening, etc (the sound deadening weighed about 1 million tonnes as it appears to be a tardis for water retention. I am sure that by mass there was 4x more water in it than it should have held.
My boot floor appears to have been made from rot:
(both sides are the same so I am only posting pics of the passenger side as I haven't even started the drivers yet) So I got busy with the grinder After some poking about I discovered that the D pillar wasn't really connected at the bottom as it was made from rust. I may have got carried away On the plus side, I did put some metal back in and start grinding it back before my grinder made a horrible noise and now the motor runs without turning the grinding disc. Not before I cut back the lip of the wheel arch as I tried to remove the rubber so I didn't melt it with welding heat and it took big chunks of "metal" away with it.
That was yesterday so I will be going home via B&Q / argos / wickes / some other DIY shop to pick up another implement of metal torture.
Just to note that a cheap metal folder makes fabricating repair sections MUCH easier (no more requirement for a couple of bits of iron, a hammer and a vice), a pillar drill means making holes for plug welds takes seconds rather than minutes.
The only thing I would say is that for more fiddly bits (like my D pillar) a brake would have been damn handy as you have corners in opposite directions within an inch of each other. Also make sure you clamp the metal to whatever scrap you have under it or you end up getting hit in the stomach.
After removing my LPG tank, the rear seats, rear carpets, sound deadening, etc (the sound deadening weighed about 1 million tonnes as it appears to be a tardis for water retention. I am sure that by mass there was 4x more water in it than it should have held.
My boot floor appears to have been made from rot:
(both sides are the same so I am only posting pics of the passenger side as I haven't even started the drivers yet) So I got busy with the grinder After some poking about I discovered that the D pillar wasn't really connected at the bottom as it was made from rust. I may have got carried away On the plus side, I did put some metal back in and start grinding it back before my grinder made a horrible noise and now the motor runs without turning the grinding disc. Not before I cut back the lip of the wheel arch as I tried to remove the rubber so I didn't melt it with welding heat and it took big chunks of "metal" away with it.
That was yesterday so I will be going home via B&Q / argos / wickes / some other DIY shop to pick up another implement of metal torture.
Just to note that a cheap metal folder makes fabricating repair sections MUCH easier (no more requirement for a couple of bits of iron, a hammer and a vice), a pillar drill means making holes for plug welds takes seconds rather than minutes.
The only thing I would say is that for more fiddly bits (like my D pillar) a brake would have been damn handy as you have corners in opposite directions within an inch of each other. Also make sure you clamp the metal to whatever scrap you have under it or you end up getting hit in the stomach.
Understeer: when you hit the wall with the front of the car.
Oversteer: when you hit the wall with the back of the car.
Horsepower: how fast you hit the wall.
Torque: how far you take the wall with you.
Oversteer: when you hit the wall with the back of the car.
Horsepower: how fast you hit the wall.
Torque: how far you take the wall with you.
Re: 1994 Range Rover
ouch!! how much of the original car is left??
Re: 1994 Range Rover
The top half of the body and the chassis. Everything below window level excluding the rear floor and B pillars has been repaired / replaced.
Honestly, having seen how bad some bits were, I hate to think what would have happened if I pranged it. The rear seat which I was able to remove the seatbelt anchor for by pressing it out with my fingers is where my mother-in-law sat most Sundays for the last year or so!
I have added seatbelt tests to my weekly car checks.
It is truly amazing how it has gone through it's last few MOTs as it can't have got to this stage in less than a year.
Honestly, having seen how bad some bits were, I hate to think what would have happened if I pranged it. The rear seat which I was able to remove the seatbelt anchor for by pressing it out with my fingers is where my mother-in-law sat most Sundays for the last year or so!
I have added seatbelt tests to my weekly car checks.
It is truly amazing how it has gone through it's last few MOTs as it can't have got to this stage in less than a year.
Understeer: when you hit the wall with the front of the car.
Oversteer: when you hit the wall with the back of the car.
Horsepower: how fast you hit the wall.
Torque: how far you take the wall with you.
Oversteer: when you hit the wall with the back of the car.
Horsepower: how fast you hit the wall.
Torque: how far you take the wall with you.
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