Practically Classics Forum

I been in the motor trade for yonks but often see so called advice on removing very rusty nut/bolts.....penetrating fluid forget it you just might as well purchase a lucky rabbits foot .....heat sometimes and lots of it...but frequently cut it off is the only answer.. on a lighter note tighten up the new fixing until the thread strips then back it off a bit
Jim

Having worked on farms for many years and now owning a couple of old tractors (one with a rusty a digger) and Land Rover as well as having owned many rusty old cars since the late 60's, I half agree with you.

However, soaking rusty parts in diesel can release buts and bolts, Plus Gas is good - but you have to keep the nut/bolt soaked for a while before they will come apart, "Shock and Release" fluids can work well - I have tried heat on some bolts with no success but soaking them in S&R has freed them off (and doesn't burn paint near the bolt/nut! A good impact gun can work wonders too! WD40 is often mis-used: it isn't a releasing liquid!

Easy-outs are a waste of time (especially if they break when you are trying to get the stud out). I don't rate rabbits' feet - they were never lucky for the rabbits!

We had a saying on one job: tight's tight, too tight's f***ed! Harry Ferguson insisted on high-tensile nuts on his machines. He used to carry a special spanner to check the nutds and bolts were tight - a spanner with a six feet long extension and used his full weight on the bolts. For those who don't know the Ferguson tractor, he also invented the viscous-coupled 4WD system used on the Jensen Interceptor FF (Ferguson Formula)!

I will have to dig around but there was talk on using electrical current on such parts to help. But guess
where they discussing that?

Yep over on an American car club forum! I will see what I can find somebody would probably know what
I am trying to say or imply.

Okay of course i have tried Plus Gas in the past with no obvious result vinegar same result...i think Plus Gas is more the psychological effect makes one feel more confident about removing the fixing..as does a Gin and Orange....
Air tools sometimes my local tyre fitter in spite of my requests does the wheel nuts up to a terrific poundage last time i had to use a 3 foot extension bar to remove the nuts of course it damages the threads doing them this tight...so now i take my wheel brace along and refit the nuts myself...sure others have had this experience as well
jim

You mean one of these Aaron?
http://www.bodyshopbusiness.com/heat-up ... and-bolts/

They have been around for a while now.

personally I opt for welding a nut on to the head of the reluctant bolt as that adds loads of heat then a breaker bar or my electric "windy gun". Sometimes it requires re-welding the nut a couple of times but it seems to work for me. I've done it with locking wheel nuts a few times as well as head bolts and various suspension components.

After drilling a bolt for an easy out,or welding on a nut( my prefered way of removing a rusted bolt) always leave the job time to cool down . If you try to turn a bolt as soon as you weld it, it will break off as the heat of welding will expand the rusted bolt making it even tighter. Same applies to drilling out broken bolts. the heat of drilling expands the bolt and if you leave it to cool quite often it will come out fairly easy. I always use my stick welder to weld on a nut as it gives much better penetration and heat than a mig welder

Plus Gas, patience and windy gun usually works for me.

P45.

Not sure about freeing bolts off but plus gas or even wd40 certainly stops them binding as they are unscrewed, just shocking the fastner with a blow from a hammer on the nut axialy (use a smaller socket to reach over protruding threads) can also help.

ive used drill bits that work the opposite direction to standard drills, it worked for me havent a clue where i got them.. all gone now. heat usually works well too, just dont set fire to everything though unless its a pug 406

Any thing that's going to see the weather i smear Copperslip over it talking about nuts/bolts of course......
jim