Practically Classics Forum

Hi everyone

after many years working on classic landrovers i have decided to look a the car above.

This car although mainly complete has not been run for a while so i thought i would ask everyonor their tips.

So far i have rebuilt the electric fuel pump and that is nicely ticking away.

I confirmed operation by removing the fuel pipe from the fuel filter under bonnet and watching fuel flow out. The pump continues to run even though the fuel glass bowl is full. this implies to me that there is not enough fuel in the tank, as i only dropped a gallon in and the feed.pipe may be above this.

Secondly i was informed by current owner the charge light stays on when running but the dynamo seems to charge battery. Is this a regulator issue?
I am also.considering moving to negitive earth....what is the procedure for this.

All help is greatly recieved...

Best regards

lee

Moved to "Tech Queries" as this is what it is....

Cheers

Pump ticking is probably a leaking valve in the pump or a faulty needle valve in one of the carbs. Is a carb flooding? Your warning light is probably the regulator, it will glow dimly if there is a high resistance across the cut-out points. Best to clean all the contacts if the car hasn't run for a bit. The only polarity sensitive components in your car are likely to be the radio and possibly the clock, but check that there are no other pieces of electronic equipment. Reverse the polarity of these (if you can otherwise disconnect them), swap the + and - coil connections, reverse the battery connections and flash the dynamo with the new polarity by briefly applying a positive connection to the D terminal , or pressing the cut-out points together.

Thanks.for.the help.pete.greatly appreciated.

The bit that confused.me the most was i replaced the fuel filter at thr glass.bowl. then ran the fuel pump and i got the bowl half full. then the fuel stopped. it was only by cracking the banjo to the carbs on the other side.of the bowl that fuel then filled up the glass bowl . this lead me to believe there was an issue in the carbs and float chambers so i checked the floats and made sure they were freely moving and also removed the carbs and checked for free movement both were ok.

After replacing i tested engine usjng starter into the air intake and it burst into life indicating a fuel issue.

There was only minimal.fuel (about a gallon) in.the tank so could it be likely that its as simple as the tank feed being above the fuel.level.


I will fill it more and try when i pop down my storage place.on monday.


Anything else.i.should check in relation to carbs etc?

Best regards

lee

Yes, you should test using more than a gallon in the tank, otherwise you just don't know where you are. However, personally I wouldn't worry too much about air in the filter, my in-line filter constantly has about half of it apparently "air" and it works just fine - I would suggest this is a red herring. At the end of the day, if it's delivering fuel to the carbs then that's all you need.

If it still won't start, then you have some other problem. If it fires with Easy-Start or just neat fuel squirted into the intake, then it's most probable that you have a carb problem, blocked float chamber, blocked jets etc.

Cheers

Hi thrre

thanks again for the info much appreciated. I checked the float chambers and there was fresh fuel in them to i will work forward from the pump until im sure all its correct. they a bit different to landrovers but sure i will get the hang of it.

Best regards

lee

Hi every one

spent the day removing and cleaning carbs.and plugs. the cards are currently.soaking to remove alot.of the built up muck and old.fuel.

However when i removed the plugs i noticed there was alot of oil in the plug seats. i am assuming that the rocker covers have seals acound the plugs and these have perished. would a tope end gaskit set have these required seals.

Second question. i am thinking of going electronic ignoition and thoughts experiences?


Best regards

lee

Is the distributor one of those which have two sets of contacts? If so, then a pair of the Britpart ignition systems work in those and will cost you less than just a single one from such as Simon BBC, who buys them at their cost price of 60p each for an order of 500 units. Nothing wrong with making a profit but MM4x4 can do exactly the same kits at less than half his price and these are much more stable than the Pertronix Ignitor or its UK relabelled version, the dearer again Aldon Ignitor.

I had several kits tested at work a few years ago on behalf of a bunch of car club members, the only device more stable and less prone to scatter than the cheap little Britpart in that test was the 123 system, hardly surprising as it's a completely new (programmable) distributor. They're good, but possibly into the £400 sort of area for most V8 applications.

Hi there john

thanks.for the info. the distributor is a two point system.i know mm4x4 very well afrom landrovers so i will give them a shout and see what they say.


Just got carbs soaking in petrol diseal mix to loosen up all the muck. they not.to bad but still mucky!!!!



Best regards

lee

They'll say that the system is only intended for the 43, 44 and 45D4 distributors, there's a thread in the R3W area of Zen13 forum to explain how to adapt the system for pretty much any other application, including classic bikes with large single cylinder engines, V8s, 6 cylinder jobs and others, some of which require some reshaping of the baseplates but it's well worth the slight amount of extra work.
I haven't posted a link to R3W at Zen13 as it's a closed shop but that's where the knowledge is so it's well worth joining up.