Practically Classics Forum

Getting the rat-tat-tat from the starter also raises the question of the Voyager
ECU being willing to start the car, especially if the security is enabled!!
The starter would engage for a few seconds, even if the security is still enabled
on the ECU but the engine won't fire up,. So I am trying to find this out too!

I have done myself a mischief by getting into and under the car when she is on
the pit so many times on tuesday to get the lambda sensor cable long enough
and sort the exhaust sensor hole sorted as it needed to be rammed out with a
industrial reaming bit in the drill.

I am not fit or flexible to start with and the inspection pit isn't that deep. So I
will only be going into the pit once tomorrow. So fitt the sensor, zip tie the
cable, then replace the boards under the car covering the pit so as to keep the
rubbish out. I will then spend a few hours in a hot bath trying to straighten my
back again.

The lambda sensor fitted and the the cable zip tied in place.






I then tried again starting the car, watch the vids I know there is something wrong!






The last thing I did was to take out the spark plugs, and the back three were a bit
fun to get out! Perhaps without the plugs in and the cylinders not under compression
it will be easier to free up the engine and get the starter motor to spin more easily!
I just pray the bloody thing hasn't siezed as I haven't had it properly spinning since
the plugs where put in!

couple of questions, have you tried putting a spanner on the crank bolt and feeling if the engine is actually seized?
assuming it is not, have you checked the cable from your battery to the starter is good?
on your second video the rapidly switching solenoid sounds very much like there is insufficient current to maintain it's position. have you put a meter to the solenoid trigger while attempting to crank to see if it is getting 12v?

TerryG wrote:....the rapidly switching solenoid sounds very much like there is insufficient current to maintain it's position. have you put a meter to the solenoid trigger while attempting to crank to see if it is getting 12v?

I'd go along with what Terry said there. But this, regardless of some glitch that you will iron out soon enough, is good progress and imagine how great you'll feel when that engine does burst into life.

Keep at it, you'll soon have it on the road.

Not been too good on Thursday, all I have done by pushing myself caught
up with me. So the only thing done is to setup some thin copper piping so
I can get penetrating oil into the rear 3 cylinders.

On Wednesday I was moving the under drive pulley with the plugs in. I
have yet to try it since they have been removed.

The battery didn't get charged Wednesday night as dad nicked the charger
for his discovery! After some thought I have had another idea similar to
yours terry as to the problem, thinking not of the direct cables to the starter
and fuse board from the positive side, but the negative connection which rely
on the going through the the bolts and different metals that are there before
it gets to an earthing strap then the battery! All that grease used to lubricate
the bolts to make assembly and dismantalling easier!

With the starter motor being where it is it might be better if the old girl was
the other way round on the pit so I can get better access underneath.

After a couple of days spraying WD-40 into the cylinders, it was time to
remove the copper tubes used to feed cylinders with the penetrating oil.



A new couple of negative cables, and I dropped the battery in with no loose
connections to cause problems.



This is the second time I did this as the first time I did it the camera got
covered so this is from a different angle. The amount of crap that came
out of those spark plug holes covers the fire wall and exhaust manifold
around the back, as well as the radiator bumper and the drive.



Well after that I removed battery and used it for putting the cable back on
the winch drum.



I will need to get a new 1/2 inch ratchet as it is the only one that I have that
has a socket large enough for the spark plugs, as the old one is fecked!
So all but the rear middle plug was put back in. I will sort that out before
using the pressure hose to clean up the engine bay with all that mess.

After the initial try wishing against all hope and common sense that she would
just start! I tried putting the multi meter to various places to see what is going
on there. No output to fuel relay, or sensor power supply, or ignition coils etc.

I found a plug which wasn't connected up, I think I have identified it as the Knock
sensor going off the cable colours. Only problem is that according to the Factory
Service Manual it should be up front next to the oil filter and starter motor.



But here is a couple from today of the same place.






Any idea where the alternative places it could be on this motor?
(I was not going to lift all the planks off the inspection pit and crawl under the car
when I'm not well enough)

With what I have said do you think that the Voyager ECU is in lock down mode?

I won't claim to be an expert on your particular engine but you should have a knock sensor for each bank so one on each side. they aren't needed for an engine to run but you will cause problems under load without them if the ECU is looking for their output.

Terry I think that the american V6 might be old school and only has sensors
and injectors as it has been shoved into different model Chrysler/Dodges
over the years, and those sensor etc are an attempt to update it a little.

jimbo in MI on neons.org wrote:Most V6 did not have a knock sensor, but there may be a connector for it anyway.

And as the UK got the option of the 2.0L SOHC engine with 5 speed manual
it is beginning to look like that the plug could be for that engine option.

Fairy nuff. knock sensors are used to detect pinking so the ECU can adjust the ignition timing as required. The Lucas EFi system on my v8 doesn't have knock sensors but the gems system does.
As you have multiple systems that are not receiving power I would go back to the wiring diagram and see if they are all fed from a common relay / fused circuit then check that. I assume that the ECU itself is receiving power?