Practically Classics Forum

Ah just found this online!

With my slave cylinder solid in the fully extended position, it looks like I need to crowbar the clutch fork into the closed position to expel all the air. In the same thread they also say using a vacum bleeding system .


I have had the same issues multiple times. There are three things you need to do.

1. Make sure youu have the slave cylinder rotated so that the bleeder nipple is at the top.

2. Jack the rear higher than the front of the car.

3. You must use a pry bar and push the actuator rod or clutch release lever so you fully collapse the slave cylinder. This is critical. Without doing this there is no way to get the air out. You might even want to block the lever collapsed with a little wedge while you bleed the system.

Also after you bleed either brakes or clutches it is sometimes a good idea to come back to them and do it again after you have soem time on the car. Small amounts of air usually migrate to the end points.

I just went through this on my LeMons race car rear calipers. They are the 105/115 design without parking brakes and it was impossible to get the air out without fully collapsing the pistons.

Alot of guys in US with Milanos/75 recommend these, seems may be a good long term servicing benifit for the 75 rear calipers

Oh so it's all sorted!

Got the other type of pressure bleeder as suggested and it worked a treat! I needed to put some air line tape on the bleed nipple as some air was being pull through the thread. Finished it off iwth old fashion maunal bleed with father in law pumping pedal.

The issue with the fork was simply incorrect positioning as I needed to put my fingers in through the hole and turn to get the flats of the bush inside inline with the fork.

So I then filled the gearbox and reconnected the rear anti roll bar.

Next job is to run up the car to 5k to settle the new donuts that are not fully tightened yet and then torque it all up and hope that marking all the nuts and bolts has kept the prop balanced.

Can't thank everyone enough for taking the time to help out!

Glad yrr keeping the MoJo, my friend

Just spent a couple of hours, kneeling in slushy snow, to do Discs&Pads on my trusty SAVVY... proper MoJo Dampener when yrr pants are wet and stuck to yrr knees....

All done + 100% retardation improvement...

alfaSleep

LOL, nice one! I got thermals and a waterproof coat and trousers so I could work outside, otherwise nothing would be getting done

Snow just 30 odd miles down the road when it's dry and bright - if a bit chilly - here? Pictures or it didn't happen!

Bit more done today.

Gearbox topped up



Here's what I used to bleed the slave



Gearlever out and the push at bottom pressed out with rubber hammer and a socket.



Cleaned and greased and pressed back in with the kindly donated seals.





Could not find the rubber boot for the bottom of the gear lever for love nor money, so until it turns up a rubber glove gave us its life for a good cause.



Exhaust went back on , been given a tart up coating o silver high temp paint, and trimmed some universal poly mounts







Turned her on and purring like a kitten again!

Only concern (hopefully you guys can say if it is a concern or not!) was that out of gear one of the drive shafts (passenger) was turning while the other was not. So why is one engaging while its out of gear?

Unless it has an LSD, that's perfectly normal. They're both being driven when it's on the road and moving.
Here's the how & why: Click me.

Edited: According to Autodata 1981-1991, the V6 shouldn't have an open diff, it states that only the single spark IL4 has one, twin sparks and V6s should have an LSD so maybe yours needs an overhaul to address the slipping or has been swapped at some point for the open diff you have in there?

Cool link , cheers!

Yes the V6 does have a LSD. According to alot of the 75 boys they all see the same thing and it's nothing to be to concerned about.

The box is defo getting past its best, it has dodgy 2nd syncro but most do and you can drive round it.

First little spin today (just up the lane and the hard standing at top).

So here's the low down.

Brakes very poor despite bleeding. The fronts are dragging badly from sitting so long. So need to re bleed all the way round not just rears.

Handbrake comes right to top depsite new cable and a first adjustment so that needs looking at.

Clutch still not quite right, no great feel and seem to be going off as time went by, suspect the slave cylinder as I noticed a small leak.

Still got graunching noise in reverse (not when selecting the gear but when on the move, seems to build as speed increases) ,suspect its a gearbox issue.


Positives

Gear change is transformed and second is not crunching , so it really does pay to grease that bush and put new seals in and tighten everything up!

Did not feel any vibration in prop (although may not have been long enough run at high enough speed), and there is no more of the nasty noises.

No more driveline shunt!

Oh plus we have gone from this

http://i879.photobucket.com/albums/a...10626-1739.jpg
to this
http://i879.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps9c3cf91b.jpg

and this
http://i879.photobucket.com/albums/a...0905-00188.jpg
to this
http://i879.photobucket.com/albums/a...psdb20df53.jpg