V6 into a RHD Chrysler Neon mk1

[Mitsuru]

Thanks to Tbird on the lx forums I know have a good wiring connector
pin outs list of the 1997 Dodge Intrepid ECU/PCM plugs.

This means I can use the Intrepid ECU/PCM after the Voyager,s has been
confirmed that the security protocols have not been removed and the
Voyagers ECU/PCM cannot be used.

The only thing that I can see being a problem is the fact the intrepid's V6
is mounted front to back and has 2 upstream heated oxygen sensors on
the manifolds two down stream sensors. Where as the Voyager has one
upstream and one down stream.

Why is this a problem? Because I have never had to fool a lambda sensor
before. So a question for people to ponder on.

Can you use one sensor but connect it to both sensor inputs on the ecu?
Remember this would need to be done for both up and down stream
sensors.

[Richard Moss]

Can you use one sensor but connect it to both sensor inputs on the ecu?
Remember this would need to be done for both up and down stream
sensors.

I would imagine so

[Mitsuru]

Richard I thought it best to give that question it's own thread as there
might be others who might have come up with the same problem. But
they might not wish to read my particular engine swap and car mod
thread

http://practicallyclassics.phpbbhosts.c ... f=8&t=3755

Now since it is separate, people can expand on that subject there rather
than clog this thread with the information, and discussion.

[Mitsuru]

Yes the wiring needs to be done, but it's time to use the starter motor
to turn the engine over to circulate the oil a little and stop the engine
seizing up.



During the last few seconds of the video being shot the cameras tripod
was moved as I went over. The car battery was put on charge as that is
why the engine didn't turn over very well.

[Peter-109]

What's the smoke towards the end of the video?

[Mitsuru]

What's the smoke towards the end of the video?

I was using a battered set of jump leads to get the earth on the battery
a good earth on the engine. The cable of the jump leads is good but the
crocodile clips on the end are past it so are cable termination that the
wire heated up and was melting the insulation.

I will be turning the engine over again tomorrow before draining the cooling
system. Why? Because at the moment the cooling system only has water
in it and no antifreeze. After watching the weather reports, and seeing how
the night temperature is getting closer and closer to zero degrees C, It will
need to be done asap before any damage is done!

So there is me getting soaking wet tomorrow, YUCK!!!

[3xpendable]

I just noticed what seems to be a straight and solid cooling hose from the engine to the rad. You'll want to change that to a flexi or convoluted hose or it will snap either the rad inlet or the other end.

[Mitsuru]

A straight and solid hose?
I think you may have missed a few photos when looking through the
build, and hassle I had with the filler neck. Here is the same pipe from
a different angle.

[3xpendable]

Apologies, I was watching the video from my iPod and the angle of the camera makes it look straight.

[Mitsuru]

Okay as I said last night I was going to drain the cooling system down
as only filled it with tape water and no antifreeze. Well here is what the
water looked like!



I have since flushed it a couple of times to get the water running clear
as possible. I have then made the mix of antifreeze and water about
30-50% antifreeze.

I tried another set of jump leads only for them to melt on the first
attempt. So rather than buy another set of crocodile clips, I removed
the ones from the set of leads which melted. and fitted them the old
long set. The battery wasn't charged up as dad keeps turning the
charger off.