tractorman wrote:the bolt holes through the boot floor will probably be the weakest point!
I hear you loud and clear on that one, as when I removed the old tow
bar bracket they only use 2 bolts on each side and one of the bolts was
through the full box frame and into the boot the others were just into
one side of the box section of the frame.
And that one bolt was in a nice neat hole inside the car but came
through a much larger hole in the frame. the others had all had larger
holes than was needed so the hole bracket had moved back on that
one neat hole that was from the boot through the frame and to the
tow bar bracket.
That hole in the boot isn't neat any more!
So I will be also using tome tube to act as booth spacer and to reduce
the holes dimensions in from underneath to that it is a tight fit with the
box section.
I pulled the tow bar bracket out of the shed and bolted it up with the
help of a couple of jacks. I then got the bit that have yet to be welded
to it to check that they are fit for purpose (even if I am not!)
I had to use a hammer to hold up the bolting plate and the tow bar
ball and pin, as I had no strength to hold it up with my left arm!
Then I put the back box on the trolly jack and jacked it till it was
wedged in the right position so it wouldn't move and fall on me, but I
would still be able to do some measurements and mock up positions for
parts.
As you can see in the above pictures, I have more space than I realised.
This is down to one thing, with used 'C' bar rather than a box section.
And forgot to adjust my calculations accordingly.
Now for checking how to mount the exhaust hanger rubbers.
I marked the exhaust back box so I new where the centre point was
previously to make things easier. T then put a perfectly straight metal
bar under the back box to balance the rubber on.
I need to make a couple of tabs to be welded there on the bracket so
that a bolt on each side can be used to act as a pin for the rubbers.
I will be pre drilling the bolt holes first to make life easier.