Practically Classics Forum

rich. wrote:

JPB wrote:Thanks Rich, don't mind if I do. Hang on, this is a trick, alcohol is a depressant.

But, specially for Mitsuru:

it turns me into mr happy!!
i only get depressed the morning after when i wake up with a headache/hangover again.. 2 beers, im a lightweight but a cheap night out

Ditto, Makes me very happy, whisky , wine or beer then I'm feeling fine, I don't think its the drink that makes me depressed the morning after though.

Just the thought of what I did as it rolls in slowly piece by piece

Just finishing the first bottle of home brewed wine and the digital breathalyser says I'm unfit already,...

and only quarter past 11 but at a pound a bottle at least its cheap....and strong....and tastes sort of okay

Mitsuru, this must be the longgggggggggggest running thread around (though my Riley one stands a chance of matching it eventually), wishing you luck and a speedy finish now.

No matter how much leather feed it gets it keeps coming back to this!
There is no option but to replace the full set of seats.



I will take a picture of the ecu plug to prove there has never been wires
in pins 72 and 77, and this photo is of the wires of the plug for the
VAPOUR CANISTER SOLENOID.



And the Vapour Canister Solenoid in an old photo of when the old engine
was being removed, the solenoid is circled in red.



Which begs the question if the car has this commissions option package,
and yet doesn't have the 2 above mentioned pins/wires how the heck is
it operated and wired?

As the gables that were run under the car now running through the cabin
under the carpet. they are a bit short. So I cut off the plug leaving about
10 inches of wire attached, I have pulled through some wire to extend it
through the firewall to where it needs to be.

As I had ran out of heath shrink insulation sleeving I left the electrics, and
Decided to redo the adapter plate between the pt coolant filler neck and
the v6 upper outlet.

New blank on the left, the one on the right has a problem hence the remake.
The main hole is too far to the front and the pt neck doesn't go over it
correctly.








The brass reinforcement inserts needed to be drilled so larger bolts could
use the holes. unfortunately the back one needs replacing as I screwed it
up!





The new adapter plate is one thick plate where the original one I made is
actually 2 stuck together. I nicked the aluminium plate from dads stash that
he keeps for the boat.

I will look at the hole position again so the thermostat fits perfectly.
I will email pdf copies of the wiring diagrams an connector pinouts to
anybody who pm's me with their email address, so you all can try and figure
out this Vapour Canister Solenoid etc.

As the weather will be cooler and maybe even rain on Friday and Saturday.
So I will finish off the coolant filler neck adapter plate in the tool shed on
those days same goes for some other things if possible.

Today was spent finishing off the rerouteing and extension of the abs cables,
all connections soldered and heat shrink insulated. I just need to get under
the old girl to fix the cabling to the firewall and put the plugs backin.

The damaged left wing mirror had to be replaced, so that was also done
today, I will take the door car off and plug the electrics in tomorrow.

Nobody has pm'd me with their email address to have a look at the wiring
diagrams to help figure out this vapour canister solenoid stuff!

As I was waiting for washing machine to finish so I can get the laundry
out of the way before getting up the eyes of dust etc with the grinder.

So I was cleaning out some stuff and found the white wall tyre addon's.
So as they are for a 16" wheel, I pulled the vw/audi/skoda steel wheel &
here are the results.



Sorry but the chrome centre cap is stuck on with a loop of tape, and it is
a little higher than it should be.



And yes the wheel doesn't actually have a tyre on it an it is resting on bits
of wood.







Okay laundry out of the way!
I got the wiring loom out and was looking at the various plugs and it
dawned on me where the heck am I going to mount the Transmission
Control Unit(TCU)?

I realise it was tim to get the ecu out and place it where the neon's 4
cylinder ecu used to be. The only thing I could think of was to make a
bracket that would hold both the Fusebox and the TCU.

I decided to use a length of box steel, so one side has the prongs for
the fuse box to slide down. Yet by not cutting so it isn't a box cross
section keeps it's strength.





Why is it I could only find one bolt the right length for the TCU?







All unbolted and a a go over with the wire brush attachment on the drill,
Which slipped and went across the wrist. Time to tidy up and give the
bracket a quick lick of silver hammerite paint.



The number plate molding got a quick blast of chrome plastic spray too.
Mind you that will need to be redone.

Once the TCU, ECU and others have beenplugged in I could then start to
shorten some cables, so that there is less mess and less weight to carry.

I bolted the the battery tray up, and added the bracket for
the TCU and fusebox. I did thin when I was making the
bracket that I might need to use washers for spacers.



I have then since realised, I may need to raise the TCU a
few inches just to give extra clearance for the gear selector.

This can easily be done and at the same time provide a
fixing plate for the extra relays and fuse holders. I will
nab a bit of that thick Aluminium plate out of dads stock
pile so no need for painting, a simple rectangle thats it.

The end fixing bolt is up over so it can e used as a fixing
point for the negative earth cables.
That battery tray is going nowhere, dad tried moving it all
he did was move the whole car! I will need to drill holes
front and back for straps to hold the battery.

As it was such a lovely warm sunny day.
I decided to make a start on the wiring loom off the voyager.
The loom was placed in to get an idea of which needed to be
shortened and which needed cable to be added.



Once a couple of wires had been shortened to make it easier to
work on the loom as removed to the bench.



As the TCU would have been on the right hand side of the
Voyager, and is now going to be on the left near to the ECU,
there needed to be a little cable taken out of some cables on
that branch of the loom. 2+ feet of cable to be precise!



More work on it tomorrow. Mother wasn't happy, as I used her
mini blow torch which is supposed to be used for crème brulees
on the heat shrink insulation, as the lighter kept getting blown
out.

I have yet to look at the wiring between the voyager loom and
the neon fusebox yet, this might be some light reading for
tonight! The weather forecast for the week ahead is good, for
my fingers? not so good as cuts off the knife when splicing
cables.

As the Voyager ECU is fitted differently than the Neon's,
I thought it best to remove the Neon's ECU backing plate
and fit it to the Voyager's ECU.

For getting the the backing plate the bolts had seized solid,
I used the grinder to take the bolt heads off.



As the Voyager's ECU backing plate is pressed to have it
touch inside the ECU to act as a heat sink.
I added the Neon's to it creating a gap between the two,
which will allow for air to circulate.





I removed both backing plates, a quick run over with the
grinder to remove the rust and rot. Then a thin coat of
paint, it will have a couple of more coats of paint.



As the grinder was out!
A quick cut an round off the edges of a bit of aluminium
plate, 4 holes drilled, with 4 temporary bolts, heres where
it sits!





There will be slightly thicker bolts replacing the current ones.
As you can see there is plenty of space between the TCU &
where the battery will be, thats even with the TCU plug.



I also replaced a plug for the output shaft sensor as it was
too badly damaged. More reading on the wiring up!

After popping down to Motorcool to see Eddy the gentleman making my
custom radiator to confirm the palcement of the inlet & outlet.

I then set to on the car by dropping the battery to check for any
clearance issues! The Neon's original wiring loom that is staying is not
going to fit over the corner of the battery bracket. I had to put the
wiring loom over the battery to get the battery in.





As there is enough space under the the tray right next to the engine
bay wall fixing the loom to the bottom of the battery.



Just a quick rule of thumb, check on ground clearance with car sitting
in it's own tyres on the mk2 neon r/t springs on mk1 neon struts.
A good 5 inches at the cars lowest point.
That will be good for those speed bumps!!



After having to remove the battery tray and TCU bracket I realised that
the solid state fan relay would have bolted to the side of the engine bay
where the tray is!

So I drilled a couuple of holes and taped a thread into the holes and a
better place for the fan relay(I hope!)



Three holes drilled into the engine bay side of the battery tray base for
cable zip ties for holding the wiring loom.





Two holes which will be have to be made into downwards slots will be for a
bar to hook into, one front one back and both threaded on top to hold a bar
across the top of the battery to hold it in place.



As the Neon's wiring loom is being moved under the battery tray, some wires
for the light needed to extended to run a different way. It will look neater once
it is wrapped and secured.





There is space in the fuse box for me to use a spare relay bay for the
transmission control.

Good to see it progressing again, MOT by Christmas?

Landy Mann wrote:Good to see it progressing again, MOT by Christmas?

A shiny fifty pee to a charity of your choice says that Mitsuru will have his car on the road before July!
Anyone care to raise the stakes?