Practically Classics Forum

Be very careful, and maybe remove the driven wheels (ust leave the hubs spinning), as the last thing you want to see is a driverless neon going for a day out without you in it

Yeah, I'd guess that L (Voyager) is simply to prevent the trans from selecting a higher gear than 2nd on those with no '1' on the quadrant, but it would be useful to be able to select first manually for extra engine braking in poor conditions. In your fortunate position (fortunate because your car can be as unique as you want it to be seeing as you're re-engineering so many bits of it) I'd make the linkage work so that you could select every position from P right back to 1; P R N D 3 2 1, in other words the same layout as found in BW45s and many other four-speed autos.

SirTainleyBarking wrote:Be very careful, and maybe remove the driven wheels (just leave the hubs spinning), as the last thing you want to see is a driverless neon going for a day out without you in it

Tether the car as well, so that if it does escape, it can only go round and round in ever-decreasing circles like a goat on a lawn.

SirTainleyBarking wrote:Be very careful, and maybe remove the driven wheels (ust leave the hubs spinning), as the last thing you want to see is a driverless neon going for a day out without you in it

Oh I think I would be in it!!
Only it will look like the old girl would be trying to eat me whole!
With my legs sticking out from under a semi closed bonnet!

Mitsuru wrote:

SirTainleyBarking wrote:Be very careful, and maybe remove the driven wheels (ust leave the hubs spinning), as the last thing you want to see is a driverless neon going for a day out without you in it

Oh I think I would be in it!!
Only it will look like the old girl would be trying to eat me whole!
With my legs sticking out from under a semi closed bonnet!

You don't call it Christine do you??????

Tbird100636 of LX Forums wrote:Seventh position is for valve body removal.
It pulls the park rod further away from the sprag and locks it
against a bracket on top of the valve body. If you didn't
move it into this position you would not be able to drop the
valve body.

The repair manual wrote: NOTE: To ease installation of the valve body, turn
the manual valve lever fully clockwise.
Guide park rod rollers into guide bracket, while
shifting manual lever assembly out of the installation
position.

So is it 1st gear or is it as Tbird says for valve body removal?

I was house bound today as dad was tiling the porch floor,
so wet cement. I did manage to get out to check on the car.
Only to be met with this!!!





Christine had peed on the drive, my first thought was great it
will be that bloody transmission again!!

I jacked the car up, took the wheels off, and put them under the
floor pan with 4" x 4" posts on top for the car to rest on.
The front got the axle stands, I wasn't wanting a car on my head.

It wasn't the transmission, it was the drain plug on the engine's
oil pan. The drain plug was new and supplied by the Chrysler
dealership, and didn't fit right!

Luckily only about half a cup of oil went on the drive, but dad was
angered by it! When was the last time he looked under his
discovery? as it is dripping oil from all over!!!

I drained the oil refitted the original oil rain plug, and poured the
oil back into the engine. As I was pouring the oil back in, I did
notice that there were dark streaks in it off the old oil.

After the car has been running a couple of months I will give her
another oil and filter change.

The old girl is still up on the stands etc, ready for me to work on
the ancilaries etc tomorrow. I did use some washing up liqud a
brush and the hose pipe to clean the oil off the drive, so I'm not
rolling around in it tomorrow!

I'm going to miss the daily updates when you're finished!! Kudos on your speed and dedication.

Jim

jagdude wrote:I'm going to miss the daily updates when you're finished!! Kudos on your speed and dedication.

Jim

Jim there will still be things to do and enjoy me cocking things up!!(or blow up )

guhfluh of neons.org wrote:

This excerpt from the wiki is a direct copy from what is in my Chrysler
training manual.

I would simply try it as you had planned. Shift the range sensor into 1st
without the shifter cable connected and see how the controller reacts.

It will not harm or break anything. At most it could throw a code, then
simply reset it. If by chance it does work for you, then you can start
figuring a way to get the shifter to work. I believe I have seen
aftermarket shifters which allow that position with the correct gate.

Also, L/2nd would probably work perfectly fine for you, as I believe it
starts in 1st gear from a stop and only upshifts at engine redline.

And thank to guhfluh, as the manual only said to fully turn it clock wise
for valve body removal this may have been miss interperated by some
as just for removal and not that it could be 1st gear.

I will be trying the manual shift before sending the car to have it's MOT.

If it does happen to work perfectly, then there is no question about it,
I MUST be able to get to use it. As it will be safer for going down banks.

That is hopefully a task for next year and will be part of this thread as it
will be utilizing the full operation functions of the 41te transmission.

So there will still be things to do and enjoy me cocking things up!!
(or blow up )
After the old girl gets through her MOT, the planning for next year will begin!!

The remote pulley system and the reinstalisation of the A/C system and the
re-re-location of the alternator round the back of the engine block.

A new front end LPG kit.

Bigger front springs to level the car back up.
(I have the R/T springs ready)

The heated washer bottle thermostatically controlled, with heated washer jets.
(optional)

A newer leather interior out of a mk2 neon or other.

Body and Paint work, and CHROME!!!!!!!!
(white wall tyres optional )

And of course the 1st gear option!

Before starting on the tensioner bracket I had to replace
a nut and bolt for the right side of the subframe.
The bolt was ratelling and rotten.

The Bracket was bolted together before being dismantling
before being fitted onto the car. As I needed to make sure
that all nuts, bolts, washers, spacers, etc were there.



I will need to get a longer bolt for pullund the pulley up!
As I think that I am missing out on alot of the bracket use.





Tomorrow the Crank Shaft Pulley goes on!

After stopped raining I put the crank shaft pulley on, it went on
rather easily compared to previous times.

I then removed the spark plugs which had been fitted to create
compression in the cylinders while I fitted the crank shaft pulley.

I then using the large torque ratchet hand cranked the engine,
there was a little stiffness as the engine has been stood outside
for some time with no protection.

I checked the oil levels I had plenty in the engine but the level in
the transmission had dropped as expected, so added a bit more.

Then add a car battery, some jump leads , well watch the clip.



I then got the old girl down off the axle stands refitting the wheels.



Still on neon mk1 springs up front.