Practically Classics Forum

have you thought of gold?

If the car is gray, why not go for a deep red or burgundy to really contrast and
look sharper. Cream or white will look bland or the same as every other on out
on the road! Then set them pff with the chrome/stainless steel hub caps and
trim rings.

Mitsuru wrote:If the car is gray, why not go for a deep red or burgundy to really contrast and
look sharper. Cream or white will look bland or the same as every other on out
on the road! Then set them pff with the chrome/stainless steel hub caps and
trim rings.

car is maroon



pic taken on the day i got her out of her garage at the previous owners.

gonna stick with the old english white i think.
prob wont see much of the rim anyways as i have the chrome centres and outer trims to fit unless i just fit the chrome centres?

kev

I've said it before and I may yet say it again, but etc.

Yes, seeing the white on the rear, or the cream on the front wheel, I think that either would work just fine with the body colour.

JPB wrote:I've said it before and I may yet say it again, but etc.

Yes, seeing the white on the rear, or the cream on the front wheel, I think that either would work just fine with the body colour.

the rears are the original colour i think so thats the way i will be going. the cream is ok but not so good in the flesh so to speak.

just need to convince the missus that £225 to get the 5 blasted and coated is a good deal...looks like the bedroom is getting decorated shortly

kev

Rootes 008, probably Talbot now!
91% White.
7% Reduced Yellow Oxide.
2% Black.

The Jowett AGM was yesterday at Coventry Museum of Transport and on display was this all original 1960 Minx apologies for the blurred pic - and the wheel colour is But there's bound to be a anorak along shortly to state that it was different shade of OEW for every model year

kevin wrote:...£225 to get the 5 blasted and coated.....

How f***in' much?

I think I'd be having them blasted as of course that's not a bad plan, but then spraying them - with etch primer followed by some paint from aerosols or a spray gun. Much cheaper and less likely to leak, unless of course the wheels can be powder coated without getting the powder on the inside of the rim where the tyres will be sitting.

In 2013, I wouldn't say that is too much. The equipment, for blasting cleaning, is expensive and so I imagine is powder coating equipment. Then there is the electricity and the wages of the operatives, not to mention general business expenses. Moss want best part of £60, for tins of aerosol paint and templates, for doing Rostyles. That paint won't be as hard wearing, as powder coating. I've never used powder coating on wheels (I do know it can be a swine to remove once it's on) but I can say that stove enamel works very well.

I have to confess that I am not sure powder coating is a good idea for wheels. If it gets cracked or chipped and water gets behind the coating, it could rust and be extremely difficult to sort out.

As Martin says, a good enamel paint would be as good as anything (with a good etch primer as a base) and it can touched in if it does get chipped. It's softer than 2Pak, so won't chip as easily as that does. It certainly works well on the tractors!