Post pictures and stories about your cars both present and past. Also post up "blogs" on your restoration projects - the more pictures the better! Note: blog-type threads often get few replies, but are often read by many members, and provide interest and motivation to other enthusiasts so don't be disappointed if you don't get many replies.
PLG class only applies to pre 2001 cars now! The miserable arse in the PO was most put out when I'd listed the Mondeo as PLG on the tax disc form, and NOT diesel car! Much huffing was made, so out of principle, refused to say thank you for him relieving me of £145 for a bit of paper...
The diference comes between M1 and N1 homologation classes, M1 is a passenger vehicle with up to 9 seats(including driver), N1 is a goods Vehicle of GVM less than 3500kg.
The M1 vehicles have to meet more aggressive drive by noise requrements, hence all the plastic undershields, some of the covers such as the top ones on diesels are also to keep the noise inside the vehicle down, others are just to make the engine compartment look better. They don't though form part of the MOT so unless they hold anything else up can be left off, don't take any in-front of the radiator off though as they help cooling.
Never mind Rob, if Boris has his way, £145 will seem cheap for VED on a diesel!!
In spite of the catastrophic engine failure, I still like the Golf's engine - but I would be a lot happier if I knew it would be good for another 120K miles (thought that will take a lot more than five years the first 120K took!). It might help if I changed the oil (I bought it earlier in the month, when I had done 1,000 miles on the new engine).
I'm almost afraid of starting it at the moment - the last time I did, it said I had to do 6500 miles in ten days as a service was due then. I have done less than forty since then (last Friday), so I might have to do a full 24hr non stop stint to get the mileage up.
Oh, hang on, It said 6500 miles OR ten days - phew!!
Well the Mondeo was collected tonight, so no longer my problem. Still have a diesel S-Max though, so far it's been better than FBs Touran by the sounds of things, the new car will be here Monday all being well, that's PLG but is just the wrong side of the 1549cc cut off for the cheaper tax at 1598cc
For those that are interested. I got my daughter's Daewoowoowwoowowowoo back on the road and through it's MOT with no advisories a couple of weeks ago. It all went boringly well and straightforward so I wont bore you with the details.
However I haven't yet changed the brake fluid as I'm a bit scared and need reassurance. The 2003 Daewoo Kalos 1.4 SE 16V is fitted with ABS. Does an ABS system need any special treatment over that of Poppy's?
I plan to fit the gunsun eazibleed and open the nipples at the wheels until all the fluid is removed and then refill using the gunsen again. Is this OK for a car with ABS?
I want to be sure as it is my Daughters car and it is brakes... therefore it is quite important that I don't mess it up!
ABS brakes are more or less the same as standard ones when it comes to bleeding. Trying it with your ez-bleed kit won't hurt but may not work.
I don't know your daeeeeewwwwww's system but some cars with an electronic pump can't be bled with the ez-bleed system.
All you have to remember is to start with the corner furthest away from the master cylinder (passenger side rear) and work around to the closest one.
The brakes work in exactly the same way as Poppy, they aren't complicated. If you have the Haynes manual, it will tell you exactly how to do it and if the ez-bleed kit can be used.
If you don't have one then it would be a good investment.
Understeer: when you hit the wall with the front of the car.
Oversteer: when you hit the wall with the back of the car.
Horsepower: how fast you hit the wall.
Torque: how far you take the wall with you.
The important thing is to check the type of fluid the Daewoo needs - it may be different to the stuff you used for Poppy. I confess that I got the garage to change the Golf's brake fluid (and they did the old Golf a couple of years ago - and before that a few times) as they don't charge daft prices and it's a lot easier than scrabbling around on the floor and I don't have to worry about upsetting the system - IIRC, early (non-ABS) dual circuit systems were more temperamental than more modern ABS are - but that may just be another Internet myth!
I don't know what fluid you'll need - there are more DOTs than Morse code these days!
Unfortunately, Haynes don't do a Manual for this car. I have found an online manual that has been useful in other areas. it is the chevrolet service center manual apparently but it quite often says things like "in the usual way" which I'm never sure whether the "usual" way is usual for chevy or cars in general!!
Surprisingly Tractorman, the owners handbook actually tells me which type of fluid to use...I just can't remember at the mo... It is unusually, very helpful when compared to other modern owner handbooks!
I use dot 5.1 in mine whether it says dot 4, super dot 4 or dot 5.1. Just don't mix dot 5 with anything but all the mineral oil versions are compatible.
Understeer: when you hit the wall with the front of the car.
Oversteer: when you hit the wall with the back of the car.
Horsepower: how fast you hit the wall.
Torque: how far you take the wall with you.
It is unusually, very helpful when compared to other modern owner handbooks!