I looked into splitting it with a hacksaw blade but the material is too bloomin hard.
I have a hydraulic hollow jack at work, i think im going to need it.
For anyone interested its from an MF135.
Perkins
Re: Perkins
Well it seems i was lucky with the first as the second will not come out...not even move.
I looked into splitting it with a hacksaw blade but the material is too bloomin hard.
I have a hydraulic hollow jack at work, i think im going to need it.
For anyone interested its from an MF135.
I looked into splitting it with a hacksaw blade but the material is too bloomin hard.
I have a hydraulic hollow jack at work, i think im going to need it.
For anyone interested its from an MF135.
-
tractorman
- Posts: 1399
- Joined: Mon Feb 21, 2011 11:22 am
- Location: Wigton, Cumbria
Re: Perkins
If memory serves, they were "chrome liners" on these engines (and later 35/35X) - this is how my friend came a cropper with his earlier 35 (Partco offered him cast ones)!
As it's an AD3, it's direct injection (the injectors go in on an angle to squirt into the centre of the combustion chamber) - these were introduced on the 135s - 35/35X were indirect injection.
IIRC, my friend had to borrow the special tool from a local agricultural mechanic to get the liners out of both his 35 and 135. I didn't see him to either machine, just heard the long and boring stories (almost bolt-by-bolt!)
I have to admit, I much prefer the David Brown 3-pot engine - it's block-bored and seems to last longer before major repairs than Perkys do!
Although:
New pistons fitted because of:
If I had had the money when the piston failed, I would have rebored the engine as there's a thumbnail-sized scuff near the top of No1 bore. It's still pottering along, about eight years after the rebuild, so I'm not going to do anything about it at the moment! I reckon the problem was caused by two factors: someone took the thermostat out (before I bought it) and the piston was damaged just behind the thermostat housing/ water pump. The second factor being that it was an easy-start addict! Something that I hate to use - and haven't needed on any machine since the engine was rebuilt! Mind you, the Landy might need something in the winter - it's not a good starter in the warm weather and has a Perkins engine!
As it's an AD3, it's direct injection (the injectors go in on an angle to squirt into the centre of the combustion chamber) - these were introduced on the 135s - 35/35X were indirect injection.
IIRC, my friend had to borrow the special tool from a local agricultural mechanic to get the liners out of both his 35 and 135. I didn't see him to either machine, just heard the long and boring stories (almost bolt-by-bolt!)
I have to admit, I much prefer the David Brown 3-pot engine - it's block-bored and seems to last longer before major repairs than Perkys do!
Although:
New pistons fitted because of:
If I had had the money when the piston failed, I would have rebored the engine as there's a thumbnail-sized scuff near the top of No1 bore. It's still pottering along, about eight years after the rebuild, so I'm not going to do anything about it at the moment! I reckon the problem was caused by two factors: someone took the thermostat out (before I bought it) and the piston was damaged just behind the thermostat housing/ water pump. The second factor being that it was an easy-start addict! Something that I hate to use - and haven't needed on any machine since the engine was rebuilt! Mind you, the Landy might need something in the winter - it's not a good starter in the warm weather and has a Perkins engine!
Bit of chemical metal should do it ;-)
Why are you removing the liners in the first place? Are they already at their limit for a rebore or is it easier to buy sets of new pistons with liners than to buy oversize pistons? Reliant engines are a bit like that, I had a right job finding +0.060" pistons for the last one I built up and in fact, fresh liners and stock pistons were £40 cheaper than the only set of oversize ones I could find. grossly unfair but sadly true, so the block was machined to take Renault Cléon/Sierra liners, I'm thinking that dry liners don't afford you as much flexibility so best get the hydraulic heavy artillery out! 
Edited: Ah, I see, surface treatment that'll fall apart if you try to bore out the liners. Bah humbug, that's not cricket!
Edited: Ah, I see, surface treatment that'll fall apart if you try to bore out the liners. Bah humbug, that's not cricket!
J
"Home is where you park it", so the saying goes. That may yet come true..
"Home is where you park it", so the saying goes. That may yet come true..
-
Young Farmer
- Posts: 151
- Joined: Wed Jan 26, 2011 8:27 pm
Re: Perkins
Changing dry liners is a piece of cake if you have the Churchill tool to draw them out and press the new ones back in. I have done several Fergy 135s and 165s as well as t6354 engines in Dodge lorries. The tool consists of a cast iron bell that sits on the block with a hefty threaded bar dropped down through it and a machined plate to fit the liner to be removed fastened underneath. Without the tool it is almost impossible to remove the liners without doing some damage as they are an extremely tight fit. If you know someone who has a machine shop it would be relatively easy to make one. It can be used on wet liners as well but these come out fairly easy
Re: Perkins
So the saga continues.
I do have a machine shop at work so i got the sizes from tinternet and made a hydralic puller from 22mm thick EN19 and look what happened to that.
So the next stage was Youtube, a method i originaly thought was madness worked a treat and much quicker than pulling.
Smash the buggers out.!!!
The reason for changing them is quite simple, there knackered.!!
I do have a machine shop at work so i got the sizes from tinternet and made a hydralic puller from 22mm thick EN19 and look what happened to that.
So the next stage was Youtube, a method i originaly thought was madness worked a treat and much quicker than pulling.
Smash the buggers out.!!!
The reason for changing them is quite simple, there knackered.!!
Re: Perkins
Smashing them out looks like it was fun, that is my sort of maintenance! 
Understeer: when you hit the wall with the front of the car.
Oversteer: when you hit the wall with the back of the car.
Horsepower: how fast you hit the wall.
Torque: how far you take the wall with you.
Oversteer: when you hit the wall with the back of the car.
Horsepower: how fast you hit the wall.
Torque: how far you take the wall with you.
Re: Perkins
Like glass those things, anyway got all 3 new ones fitted in today.
Re: Perkins
OOOOOOOO looking good so far.
I dont suppose you tractor/perkins people know if there is a dimension for piston to block stand out.???
The pistons seem to be proud of the block surface by about 5thou.(without gasket)
I dont suppose you tractor/perkins people know if there is a dimension for piston to block stand out.???
The pistons seem to be proud of the block surface by about 5thou.(without gasket)
Re: Perkins
that is so shiny, are you related to chappy foose?
Re: Perkins
Buggerations seems the block was refaced on its last rebuild so thats why the pistons are proud.
So now i can either take it all apart again and machine the top 0.005 off the tops or bodge it and belt sand the tops off where they sit or fingers crossed someone sells a thicker gasket.
So now i can either take it all apart again and machine the top 0.005 off the tops or bodge it and belt sand the tops off where they sit or fingers crossed someone sells a thicker gasket.