It looks like a lot of the switches are common with the tr7, they also seem to need occasional cleaning so I am used to that one.
Flappers do have a poor reputation, as you say if it has one looking out for a spare may be a good idea, I intend to lpg most of the time so it won't be in use very often.
As for the handling, I am coming from a series 2 so it will probably be an improvement, but nice to know roll bars can be retrofitted.
kevin s's blog
Re: kevin s's blog
I bought the range rover, it is a mixture of good and bad.
The good
Mechanicaly seems very good, engine sounds great, drives very well, there is a bit of slack in the drive line and very slight play in the steering but nothing to worry about.
The good points:
The trim is in great condition
Electrically the only thing which does not seem to work is the passenger electric mirror, most of the switches feel a bit feeble but I guess that is how they were.
Its had a new rear crossmember and alloy boot loor fitted.
It has a good quality lpg system fitted.
No rust in doors
Upper tailgate is ok
Front inner wings and behind headlamp look good
The bad points:
Rust in the passenger side kick panel and floor
Rear seat belt mounts look a little crumbly
Both sills are begining to go.
Paint has quite a few areas where the laquer is begining tio lift or corrosion is creeping under it.
The fuel filler neck does not meet the boot floor.
Rust in base of lower tailgate
Lpg vaporuizer leaks ( brand new one supplied)
For me it is ideal, the welding will cost virtually nothing and I can paint it a panel at a time myslf (probably with a non metalic green in cellulose).
The plan is to focus on the safety / mot items first, so I will start with the seat belt mountings then the sills/ floor. The kick panel and fuel filler may just get patches with fiber glass for now to keep the rain out, I can then do them properly next year.
The good
Mechanicaly seems very good, engine sounds great, drives very well, there is a bit of slack in the drive line and very slight play in the steering but nothing to worry about.
The good points:
The trim is in great condition
Electrically the only thing which does not seem to work is the passenger electric mirror, most of the switches feel a bit feeble but I guess that is how they were.
Its had a new rear crossmember and alloy boot loor fitted.
It has a good quality lpg system fitted.
No rust in doors
Upper tailgate is ok
Front inner wings and behind headlamp look good
The bad points:
Rust in the passenger side kick panel and floor
Rear seat belt mounts look a little crumbly
Both sills are begining to go.
Paint has quite a few areas where the laquer is begining tio lift or corrosion is creeping under it.
The fuel filler neck does not meet the boot floor.
Rust in base of lower tailgate
Lpg vaporuizer leaks ( brand new one supplied)
For me it is ideal, the welding will cost virtually nothing and I can paint it a panel at a time myslf (probably with a non metalic green in cellulose).
The plan is to focus on the safety / mot items first, so I will start with the seat belt mountings then the sills/ floor. The kick panel and fuel filler may just get patches with fiber glass for now to keep the rain out, I can then do them properly next year.
Re: kevin s's blog
Assuming the price was right, that sounds very fixable.
lower tailgates popup for a few hundred pounds fairly often so i'd just swap that out and paint it.
Which rear seatbelt mounts are going? the inner ones for the buckles on the chassis or the outer ones on the arches? regardless, parts are available. Outer ones are cheap, inner ones aren't.
Having just replaced one entire sill the only awkward bits are the multi-layered areas behind the bodymounts. The front is more awkward than the rear. The rest of the sills are just 2mm flat steel.
It depends which bit of floor you are talking about but it is either flat 2mm or 1.2mm. the outer part is thicker, the floor which is part of the transmission tunnel is 1.2
The bulkhead can be a complete PITA to weld (look at earlier pics in my thread) the bottom is shaped and appears to be around 0.8mm from the factory because of the pressing. i have had to make several shaped bits to repair mine.
I have only welded on the one RR which has a high level filler so i can't comment on how to repair the low ones but mine seems to be largely made up of big bits of flat steel which isn't all that difficult to repair.
The only other bits i would suggest you check are the rear inner arches, water gets in between the two skins along the bottom and rots its way up soaking the boot carpet eventually. If you have an endoscope it's worth having a look at the steel body behind the rear wings as mine looked good until i took the wings off and found a bit of a mess.
The bottom of the C pillars is often bodged with filler so give them a good poke before you repair the seat belt mountings as if they need doing it will be much easier to do them both at the same time.
The drain holes on the bottom of the A and B pillars get clogged so it is worth a good poke around those too.
A faulty electric mirror is often a dodgy switch that changes the controls from left to right so check that first.
lower tailgates popup for a few hundred pounds fairly often so i'd just swap that out and paint it.
Which rear seatbelt mounts are going? the inner ones for the buckles on the chassis or the outer ones on the arches? regardless, parts are available. Outer ones are cheap, inner ones aren't.
Having just replaced one entire sill the only awkward bits are the multi-layered areas behind the bodymounts. The front is more awkward than the rear. The rest of the sills are just 2mm flat steel.
It depends which bit of floor you are talking about but it is either flat 2mm or 1.2mm. the outer part is thicker, the floor which is part of the transmission tunnel is 1.2
The bulkhead can be a complete PITA to weld (look at earlier pics in my thread) the bottom is shaped and appears to be around 0.8mm from the factory because of the pressing. i have had to make several shaped bits to repair mine.
I have only welded on the one RR which has a high level filler so i can't comment on how to repair the low ones but mine seems to be largely made up of big bits of flat steel which isn't all that difficult to repair.
The only other bits i would suggest you check are the rear inner arches, water gets in between the two skins along the bottom and rots its way up soaking the boot carpet eventually. If you have an endoscope it's worth having a look at the steel body behind the rear wings as mine looked good until i took the wings off and found a bit of a mess.
The bottom of the C pillars is often bodged with filler so give them a good poke before you repair the seat belt mountings as if they need doing it will be much easier to do them both at the same time.
The drain holes on the bottom of the A and B pillars get clogged so it is worth a good poke around those too.
A faulty electric mirror is often a dodgy switch that changes the controls from left to right so check that first.
Understeer: when you hit the wall with the front of the car.
Oversteer: when you hit the wall with the back of the car.
Horsepower: how fast you hit the wall.
Torque: how far you take the wall with you.
Oversteer: when you hit the wall with the back of the car.
Horsepower: how fast you hit the wall.
Torque: how far you take the wall with you.
Re: kevin s's blog
Had a much better poke around it today(ie hitting it a lot harder than you can when its somebody else's ) the seat belt mounts with the issues are the ones in the rear arch which seems very common, the outer aches are also full of filler so i will pull the rear wings one at a time and do the whole lot. The sills and body mounts all seem ok except around the base of the a pillars so not as bad as feared. It does drive really well though and there seems nothing mechanial which needs doing.
It cost £1700 which I think is pretty reasonable, 2 arches a a sheet of steel come to £100 so £1800 all in all and perhaps another 200 in paint later on is not to bad.
there are some other things I would like to do like galvanising the bumpers eventually and replacing zome of the cracked plastics but that is really just frivolity.
Oh and a new fuse got the heater fan working!
It cost £1700 which I think is pretty reasonable, 2 arches a a sheet of steel come to £100 so £1800 all in all and perhaps another 200 in paint later on is not to bad.
there are some other things I would like to do like galvanising the bumpers eventually and replacing zome of the cracked plastics but that is really just frivolity.
Oh and a new fuse got the heater fan working!
Re: kevin s's blog
Firstly some pics of the range rover. It is currently at work so no progress this weekend but I do need to take a dustpan and brush in on monday to sweep up all the filler and rust where i probed around the rear arches!
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Re: kevin s's blog
Secondly finished the painting of the minors shell now back in its original bristol omnibus colours. (still have a load of bolt on panels to do), this will allow us to stare cre-assembly over the winter. Also a picture of the small box of parts to support this (£400 gulp!)
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Re: kevin s's blog
Love the Rangie, well worth repairing. The Minor looks splendid, got ta love a two tone classic.
When out and about yesterday I spotted a nice looking Minor salted away that has been under a car port for quite some time.
Daughter has expressed an interest in running one......
Kev
When out and about yesterday I spotted a nice looking Minor salted away that has been under a car port for quite some time.
Daughter has expressed an interest in running one......
Kev
Re: kevin s's blog
Myself advice on buying a minor is rust rust rust, everything else is pretty simple but they can rot at an alarming rate and much of it is hidden.
That said i deliberately bought a rusty minor and now a rusty range rover!!!!!
Kev
That said i deliberately bought a rusty minor and now a rusty range rover!!!!!
Kev
Re: kevin s's blog
I was about to put up a really long post saying to get the best one you can afford and rattling off the benefits of mog ownership but it would have been boring to read.
The boiled down summary version is: get a mog, they are brilliant!
The boiled down summary version is: get a mog, they are brilliant!
Understeer: when you hit the wall with the front of the car.
Oversteer: when you hit the wall with the back of the car.
Horsepower: how fast you hit the wall.
Torque: how far you take the wall with you.
Oversteer: when you hit the wall with the back of the car.
Horsepower: how fast you hit the wall.
Torque: how far you take the wall with you.
Re: kevin s's blog
Spent my lunch hour today pulling the rear trim out of the lh side of the rang rover, the good news is the floor edge, spare wheel well and rear half of the wheelarch look perfect, the rot is an area from the seatblelt mount up to and underneath the base of the c pillar so repair should be simple enough with one large plate for the inner arch, a new outer arch and a few smaller patches to the base of the C pillar.
I also took the sill kick plates off and there is no rust along the edge of the floor, the bad news is the rear doors are really bad but with good secondhand ones going for around £30 its not the end of the world.
I will take some photos tomorrow.
I also took the sill kick plates off and there is no rust along the edge of the floor, the bad news is the rear doors are really bad but with good secondhand ones going for around £30 its not the end of the world.
I will take some photos tomorrow.