1994 Range Rover
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- Posts: 812
- Joined: Tue Apr 12, 2011 8:03 am
Re: 1994 Range Rover
Excellent job Terry, many would have been disheartened long before now!
I know I had minimal rust on the MGB and even that dismayed me.
I know I had minimal rust on the MGB and even that dismayed me.
2013 Dodge Durango R/T
1965 Ford Anglia 106e Estate (Wagon). LHD.
1964 Ford Anglia 105e Saloon
1965 Ford Anglia 106e Estate (Wagon). LHD.
1964 Ford Anglia 105e Saloon
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- Posts: 1399
- Joined: Mon Feb 21, 2011 11:22 am
- Location: Wigton, Cumbria
Re: 1994 Range Rover
There's a lot of good work being done (and to do), but the result will be worth the effort. You could have a new career if you're not careful!
It makes me feel a lot better about my Land Rover - although the quality of the repairs wasn't great, at least someone else had done the hardest bits!
I was saying to someone the other week that, had I known how much work my Landy would need, I would have done things differently and stumped up for a new chassis. Ideally, I'd have sold the Golf a year ago and bought a more suitable estate version and been quids in - and some as I would not have had to buy a replacement engine for the Golf. I reckon that I could have got a pretty good estate car with the money I got for the Golf and the £8K or more that the new Golf engine and Land Rover (to buy and rebuild) have cost! I wouldn't have been bored either - I could have got the big tractor sorted and made a start on the digger!
The snag is that you think there is only "that little bit to do and it's done" when you see a bit of rust. Then you get a little further, find another "little bit" that needs work and, after a few months, have more or less rebuilt the vehicle from scratch!
It makes me feel a lot better about my Land Rover - although the quality of the repairs wasn't great, at least someone else had done the hardest bits!
I was saying to someone the other week that, had I known how much work my Landy would need, I would have done things differently and stumped up for a new chassis. Ideally, I'd have sold the Golf a year ago and bought a more suitable estate version and been quids in - and some as I would not have had to buy a replacement engine for the Golf. I reckon that I could have got a pretty good estate car with the money I got for the Golf and the £8K or more that the new Golf engine and Land Rover (to buy and rebuild) have cost! I wouldn't have been bored either - I could have got the big tractor sorted and made a start on the digger!
The snag is that you think there is only "that little bit to do and it's done" when you see a bit of rust. Then you get a little further, find another "little bit" that needs work and, after a few months, have more or less rebuilt the vehicle from scratch!
Re: 1994 Range Rover
Is the rebuilding from scratch not a huge part of the fun though?
J
"Home is where you park it", so the saying goes. That may yet come true..
"Home is where you park it", so the saying goes. That may yet come true..
Re: 1994 Range Rover
It's a product of the green oval, they never run out of rust!
The chassis / body rust wasn't the most frustrating thing this weekend. To repair the drivers side I had to remove the fuel filter which is rusted to the lines so when adding some extra force (after soaking them in plus gas overnight) one snapped, covering my boots and the drive in petrol right under where I needed to weld. (which is why I didn't do the drivers side at the same time). Then what really annoyed me is that a kit to repair the lines is £81!!!! When you think the filter itself is about £3, 2 pipe fittings and 8" of rubber hose are a tad expensive. The silver lining is I discovered the filter was completely clogged. I have no idea how the engine was running as I couldn't blow through it no matter how hard I tried.
Also while "under" the floor I have discovered various bits of wiring bodge which need to be cut out and replaced properly. Scotch locks with mains flex replacing part of the wiring to the fuel pump and rear plate lights are not my idea of competent wiring repairs. I have acquired some proper exterior wiring connectors from work and some offcuts of wire (the last few meters of some rolls) to do this before the floor goes in.
The MOT is due on November 27th so I need to have it all back together by then.
The chassis / body rust wasn't the most frustrating thing this weekend. To repair the drivers side I had to remove the fuel filter which is rusted to the lines so when adding some extra force (after soaking them in plus gas overnight) one snapped, covering my boots and the drive in petrol right under where I needed to weld. (which is why I didn't do the drivers side at the same time). Then what really annoyed me is that a kit to repair the lines is £81!!!! When you think the filter itself is about £3, 2 pipe fittings and 8" of rubber hose are a tad expensive. The silver lining is I discovered the filter was completely clogged. I have no idea how the engine was running as I couldn't blow through it no matter how hard I tried.
Also while "under" the floor I have discovered various bits of wiring bodge which need to be cut out and replaced properly. Scotch locks with mains flex replacing part of the wiring to the fuel pump and rear plate lights are not my idea of competent wiring repairs. I have acquired some proper exterior wiring connectors from work and some offcuts of wire (the last few meters of some rolls) to do this before the floor goes in.
The MOT is due on November 27th so I need to have it all back together by then.
Understeer: when you hit the wall with the front of the car.
Oversteer: when you hit the wall with the back of the car.
Horsepower: how fast you hit the wall.
Torque: how far you take the wall with you.
Oversteer: when you hit the wall with the back of the car.
Horsepower: how fast you hit the wall.
Torque: how far you take the wall with you.
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- Posts: 1399
- Joined: Mon Feb 21, 2011 11:22 am
- Location: Wigton, Cumbria
Re: 1994 Range Rover
I fear that anything that says "Land Rover" on the packet is seriously over priced (that's talking as a VW owner!!). eBay is even worse - shove a couple of bolts or Scotchloks in a bag, say they are for a Land Rover and then think of a daft price. I just get my bolts and wiring connectors (I hate Scotchloks) from ordinary sellers - usually in much larger quantities for less money!
As for wiring bodges - I suspect I will have to go through the whole electrical system as there are some interesting (read "Dangerous") modifications!
I think your Rangy has been communicating with my Landy - there is now a hole in the offside footwell! Yep, I noticed a bit of scabby stuff and it is now a hole!
As for wiring bodges - I suspect I will have to go through the whole electrical system as there are some interesting (read "Dangerous") modifications!
I think your Rangy has been communicating with my Landy - there is now a hole in the offside footwell! Yep, I noticed a bit of scabby stuff and it is now a hole!
Re: 1994 Range Rover
Only one hole in your floor pan?
The holes may or may not be related to the scabs. my phone is too full of pictures of rust holes to be sure. However: But by far and away the most dangerous thing (if you ignore the potential for one of the rear axle mountings snapping off) was the condition of the rear brake lines (yet to be replaced but as the car isn't mobile I'm not worried right now) New lines are in my box of bits ready to fit.
The holes may or may not be related to the scabs. my phone is too full of pictures of rust holes to be sure. However: But by far and away the most dangerous thing (if you ignore the potential for one of the rear axle mountings snapping off) was the condition of the rear brake lines (yet to be replaced but as the car isn't mobile I'm not worried right now) New lines are in my box of bits ready to fit.
Understeer: when you hit the wall with the front of the car.
Oversteer: when you hit the wall with the back of the car.
Horsepower: how fast you hit the wall.
Torque: how far you take the wall with you.
Oversteer: when you hit the wall with the back of the car.
Horsepower: how fast you hit the wall.
Torque: how far you take the wall with you.
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- Posts: 1399
- Joined: Mon Feb 21, 2011 11:22 am
- Location: Wigton, Cumbria
Re: 1994 Range Rover
Nah, a bit of underseal is all you need to hide that
Re: 1994 Range Rover
A lot of underseal was. If it wasn't for having the floor pan out, it would have gone unnoticed until one failed.
I love old cars and have a lot of patience but I really wish this one would stop fighting for a minute and let me finish one job before finding me another one.
The rusty metal to which the brake lines are connected is also being replaced. it is one of the rear floor braces and is made of rust and air.
I love old cars and have a lot of patience but I really wish this one would stop fighting for a minute and let me finish one job before finding me another one.
The rusty metal to which the brake lines are connected is also being replaced. it is one of the rear floor braces and is made of rust and air.
Understeer: when you hit the wall with the front of the car.
Oversteer: when you hit the wall with the back of the car.
Horsepower: how fast you hit the wall.
Torque: how far you take the wall with you.
Oversteer: when you hit the wall with the back of the car.
Horsepower: how fast you hit the wall.
Torque: how far you take the wall with you.
Re: 1994 Range Rover
I have just noticed how long it's been since I posted an update on this. Life has rather got in the way so progress has been slow. I'll take some new pics in the daylight but I how have a repaired chassis which had some holes hidden behind brackets, new rear floor and supports in place, new LPG tanks fitted and plumbed, new auxiliary 35l petrol tank as there are 2x 40l LPG tanks in place of the original one (and an 80l tank where the spare wheel was). Rear wings fitted, rear floor repaired, new rear brake flexi hoses and probably lots of other stuff I have forgotten about.
I have been incredibly unmotivated for the last couple of months to do very much in any one hit as every job reveals another one or two, if I had taken a week off in the summer I could probably have finished it all.
Today I decided to sort the brakes out so I can move it and stop without grabbing the handbrake. BIG mistake. Both the upper and lower brake flexi hose mounting brackets were made of under seal coated rust. first pipe came off without too much fuss but the second one while undoing it the bracket snapped which in turn twisted the brake pipe. Arse.
It has taken the best part of 4 hours to find replacement lower brackets (main dealer only but surprisingly available to order). upper brackets I am going to have to make myself but shouldn't be too hard as it's only an L shaped bit of metal with 2 1" holes in it. I've ordered new fixed lines so another pain in the bum job for next week.
I only worked on the passenger side but I have ordered bits for both with the view that the drivers side is guaranteed to be as bad.
Insurance renewal came through yesterday, £280 in 3 years it has gone down from £850 so there are some perks to being on the wrong side of 30.
Still to do before going for an MOT:
finish fixing the brakes
re-position the tailgate hinges
connect the LPG filler so I can gas up
wire in new alarm
put the interior back in
replace gear knob(currently you don't have to press the button to change between gears)
Various wiring to connect my new sequential LPG to the lambda sensors.
If the weather was better probably a weekends work so given the frost didn't go all day today and last weekend there was snow I am predicting a June finish :S
Just in time for me to think about replacing the sills..........
I have been incredibly unmotivated for the last couple of months to do very much in any one hit as every job reveals another one or two, if I had taken a week off in the summer I could probably have finished it all.
Today I decided to sort the brakes out so I can move it and stop without grabbing the handbrake. BIG mistake. Both the upper and lower brake flexi hose mounting brackets were made of under seal coated rust. first pipe came off without too much fuss but the second one while undoing it the bracket snapped which in turn twisted the brake pipe. Arse.
It has taken the best part of 4 hours to find replacement lower brackets (main dealer only but surprisingly available to order). upper brackets I am going to have to make myself but shouldn't be too hard as it's only an L shaped bit of metal with 2 1" holes in it. I've ordered new fixed lines so another pain in the bum job for next week.
I only worked on the passenger side but I have ordered bits for both with the view that the drivers side is guaranteed to be as bad.
Insurance renewal came through yesterday, £280 in 3 years it has gone down from £850 so there are some perks to being on the wrong side of 30.
Still to do before going for an MOT:
finish fixing the brakes
re-position the tailgate hinges
connect the LPG filler so I can gas up
wire in new alarm
put the interior back in
replace gear knob(currently you don't have to press the button to change between gears)
Various wiring to connect my new sequential LPG to the lambda sensors.
If the weather was better probably a weekends work so given the frost didn't go all day today and last weekend there was snow I am predicting a June finish :S
Just in time for me to think about replacing the sills..........
Understeer: when you hit the wall with the front of the car.
Oversteer: when you hit the wall with the back of the car.
Horsepower: how fast you hit the wall.
Torque: how far you take the wall with you.
Oversteer: when you hit the wall with the back of the car.
Horsepower: how fast you hit the wall.
Torque: how far you take the wall with you.
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- Posts: 1399
- Joined: Mon Feb 21, 2011 11:22 am
- Location: Wigton, Cumbria
Re: 1994 Range Rover
If it's any consolation, taking a fortnight off in the summer wouldn't have got it sorted - as I know only too well!
I've been there with "rusty" brake pipes - I only intended to replace the two pipes for the brake master cylinder, but have ended up replacing all the pipes - brake and clutch (and the flexy ones too!). Neither brake or clutch systems are fluid-tight yet: I found other jobs to delay the brake pipes and the weather got a bit cold for garage work *I'm too mean to use a heater!).
My Land Rover is covered in dust at the moment: I cut a tile with the angle grinder in the garage the other day: it was too cold to go outside to do it! However, the kitchen refurb is progressing (slowly - I hate tiling and plastering) and the Rayburn keeps things at "shirtsleeve" temperature!
Thinking of LPG - re you "Gas Safe"? Wheeler Dealers had intended to convert a Range Rover to LPG, but apparently couldn't do it himself because of the regs! Of course, you meant that you are taking it to a registered installer - silly me
I've been there with "rusty" brake pipes - I only intended to replace the two pipes for the brake master cylinder, but have ended up replacing all the pipes - brake and clutch (and the flexy ones too!). Neither brake or clutch systems are fluid-tight yet: I found other jobs to delay the brake pipes and the weather got a bit cold for garage work *I'm too mean to use a heater!).
My Land Rover is covered in dust at the moment: I cut a tile with the angle grinder in the garage the other day: it was too cold to go outside to do it! However, the kitchen refurb is progressing (slowly - I hate tiling and plastering) and the Rayburn keeps things at "shirtsleeve" temperature!
Thinking of LPG - re you "Gas Safe"? Wheeler Dealers had intended to convert a Range Rover to LPG, but apparently couldn't do it himself because of the regs! Of course, you meant that you are taking it to a registered installer - silly me
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