Lacquering wood

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Classic Microcars
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Re: Lacquering wood

#11 Post by Classic Microcars » Mon Jul 11, 2016 7:36 am

2 clear is the stuff but it does contain isocyanates. Therefore it needs a positive pressure mask (air fed) to be safe. There are no conventional masks approved in the UK for 2K, although some sellers do claim that there are. The problem is that of sealing, the slightest leak around the seal and isocyanates can get in. On top of that, I believe that any exposed skin is dangerous, so full mask and body suit is the norm.

alabbasi
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Re: Lacquering wood

#12 Post by alabbasi » Tue Jul 12, 2016 12:57 am

is this an EU thing? I think that if someone wore a full body suite in Texas during the weather that we're having now, painters would be dropping like fly's.

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Grumpy Northener
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Re: Lacquering wood

#13 Post by Grumpy Northener » Tue Jul 12, 2016 9:58 pm

is this an EU thing?
- Nope - it's a if you want spray 2K products and stay alive then you need to wear the correct personal protective equipment (PPE) - I rarely use 2K products but when I do - its a full disposable suit, a air fed / positive fed full face mask - you should also be spraying in fully a ventilated room or booth with a system that is capable of exchanging the air volume held within that room / booth several times over per minute which should be filtered intake - filtered extraction - and once you have the said air fed mask it's not just a matter of plugging it into the compressor air supply either - the air to the positive fed mask should be routed through a 3 stage separator first - next time I have the gear rigged I will get the other half to take a pic of me in the required outfit and post it on here.
1937 Jowett 8 - Project - in less pieces than the Jupiter
1943 Jowett Stationary Engine
1952 Jowett Jupiter - In lots of peices http://Jowett.org/
1952 Jowett Javelin - Largely original
1973 Rover P6 V8 - Original / 22,000 miles

pryantcc
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Re: Lacquering wood

#14 Post by pryantcc » Thu Jul 14, 2016 9:42 am

This is interesting. I'm currently stripping a whole load of wood trim from the Mercedes for re-coating. I've bought some expensive yacht varnish. I'll post up results once I get to the painting stage. I was sold on the yacht stuff because of alleged UV resistance and the fact that it would remain flexible.
Having read Alabbasi's input, though, it would seem that the hardness of 2 pack isn't usually a problem in terms of cracking....

Young Farmer
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Re: Lacquering wood

#15 Post by Young Farmer » Thu Jul 14, 2016 8:25 pm

The varnish I used on the woodwork in my Wolseley 1500 was Le Tonkinois Varnish. The finish with it is superb and it lasts. I bought it from a chap at a local agricultural show. Reason I bought it was I had bought a sander attachment a few years before from him, lent it to a work colleague who broke it . At the next show I asked to buy a replacement spindle and was given one foc. The finish on the varnish was as good as french polishing and he was doing it on a trade stand in a busy show. As said by others the varnish you buy in the DIY stores leaves a lot to be desired,very few give a half decent finish especially the water based ones. for details see www.letonkinoisvarnish.uk I don't think you will be disappointed .

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TerryG
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Re: Lacquering wood

#16 Post by TerryG » Thu Jul 14, 2016 10:43 pm

I'm currently 300 miles away from the steering wheel but i'll post a before, stripped and after pic on Saturday. It looks pretty good :)
I have lots of other trim to do which i'm going to do in the same way although I may put a couple of coats of clear over the top as suggested further up to give it the super shiny finish the factory wood does :)
Understeer: when you hit the wall with the front of the car.
Oversteer: when you hit the wall with the back of the car.
Horsepower: how fast you hit the wall.
Torque: how far you take the wall with you.

rich.
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Re: Lacquering wood

#17 Post by rich. » Tue Jul 26, 2016 6:53 pm

have you done it yet?

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TerryG
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Re: Lacquering wood

#18 Post by TerryG » Wed Jul 27, 2016 9:30 pm

I have but 'm stuck up in the back of beyond for work.
Mind you that hasn't kept me away from spanner waving replacing the 2 piece drive shaft on my focus when the centre bearing failed :S
Understeer: when you hit the wall with the front of the car.
Oversteer: when you hit the wall with the back of the car.
Horsepower: how fast you hit the wall.
Torque: how far you take the wall with you.

alabbasi
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Re: Lacquering wood

#19 Post by alabbasi » Fri Jul 29, 2016 1:27 pm

Grumpy Northener wrote:
is this an EU thing?
- Nope - it's a if you want spray 2K products and stay alive then you need to wear the correct personal protective equipment (PPE) - I rarely use 2K products but when I do - its a full disposable suit, a air fed / positive fed full face mask - you should also be spraying in fully a ventilated room or booth with a system that is capable of exchanging the air volume held within that room / booth several times over per minute which should be filtered intake - filtered extraction - and once you have the said air fed mask it's not just a matter of plugging it into the compressor air supply either - the air to the positive fed mask should be routed through a 3 stage separator first - next time I have the gear rigged I will get the other half to take a pic of me in the required outfit and post it on here.
I'm around body shops often, I don't think I've ever seen anyone here wear special clothing with external breathing apparatus. The paint booth itself moves air (either cross flow or downdraft) to get rid of most fumes and as it's getting up to the mid 40's here in Texas. If they wear anything more then light clothing, they're going sweat all over their paint job.

Clear can flex a little so i would not be concerned about cracking. If you are, then you can add a little bit of flex agent which is what they use on clear coat that's applied to plastic bumpers.

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Grumpy Northener
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Re: Lacquering wood

#20 Post by Grumpy Northener » Sun Jul 31, 2016 7:54 am

FOR THE AVOIDANCE OF ANY DOUBT - if anyone - anywhere in the world is spraying / applying a 2K / 2 pack / Isocyanate based product whilst thinking that they are protected from the spray vapour / fumes by using one of these (or similar non positive fed respirator)
20160731_081714-001.jpg
20160731_081714-001.jpg (45.37 KiB) Viewed 2438 times
Then they will not be living for very long - isocyanate based automotive refinishing products are not only poisonous but they set as a solid substance like this
20160727_211355-001.jpg
20160727_211355-001.jpg (39.78 KiB) Viewed 2438 times
(clear lacquer taken from mixing cup once set) - Non positive fed / air fed masks will NOT prevent the spray vapour / fumes from entering into your lungs - this then sets solid with a net result of sealing your lungs. ONLY this type of set up that I am wearing in the image is to be used with isocyanate based products
20160727_102320-001.jpg
20160727_102320-001.jpg (37.32 KiB) Viewed 2438 times
- further to this the breathing air feed from the compressor should be a proper 3 stage coalescing filter
20160731_081839-001.jpg
20160731_081839-001.jpg (53.91 KiB) Viewed 2438 times
- Finally the room / booth that the spraying is taking place within should have a air intake / air extraction system that is capable of exchanging the total volume of air held within the said room / booth - several times per minute - Please for you own health do not take chances with this product - leave to someone who has the right knowledge & kit - nouf said on this one I fink :shock:
1937 Jowett 8 - Project - in less pieces than the Jupiter
1943 Jowett Stationary Engine
1952 Jowett Jupiter - In lots of peices http://Jowett.org/
1952 Jowett Javelin - Largely original
1973 Rover P6 V8 - Original / 22,000 miles

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