Material for door card re-manufacture

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pryantcc
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Joined: Wed Jan 05, 2011 6:35 pm

Material for door card re-manufacture

#1 Post by pryantcc » Tue Jan 05, 2016 11:04 am

Hi folks,
Any opinions or recommendations for which material to use? It's for my 1971 Mercedes 280SE. The existing ones are a hardboard type material and knackered. I'm not bothered about originality if there's something better to use than this. Is hardboard still available? I haven't seen it in a hardware shop for years!
I'm restricted to something about 4 or 5 mm thick I guess due to some of the fittings that need to attach to it.
Thanks in advance,
Paul.

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JPB
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Joined: Fri Jan 07, 2011 3:24 pm

Re: Material for door card re-manufacture

#2 Post by JPB » Tue Jan 05, 2016 11:21 am

I used a very thin, Gyproc-type, though not at all brittle, stuff last time I fettled some door cards, that was some time around 2002 and the reasons were that I had the stuff left over after having some dry lining done on a bathroom in one of my lets, but also because I couldn't find hardboard at the time. The car - a '57 Minor that I sold back then - is still running about locally and the last time I saw the current owner with the car, the door cards were still flat and hadn't shipped water, though I put that down more to my liberal use of polythene behind the cards than the quality of the substrate used.

Now though, a quick search at good old Blockies' website suggests that hardboard type stuff is in fact available: http://www.diy.com/search/results/?question=hardboard though if the quality to price ratio is anything like their other products, I'd be looking elsewhere!
;)
J
"Home is where you park it", so the saying goes. That may yet come true.. :oops:

Flatlander
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Re: Material for door card re-manufacture

#3 Post by Flatlander » Tue Jan 05, 2016 1:13 pm

Hardboard is still available. Amongst others, theres a company called Travis Perkins that sells it. I know that they have a few branches in the north west, probably elsewhere as well.

By pure chance, I have 4 door cards on my "to-do" list. Be using 1mm sheet aluminium for those, backed with Dynamat. They were steel originally.... :roll:

Classic Microcars
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Re: Material for door card re-manufacture

#4 Post by Classic Microcars » Tue Jan 05, 2016 2:39 pm

The ultimate answer is Foamex or its competitor's products. Waterproof, rot proof, lightweight, easy to work and comes in many thicknesses (3-5mm ideal). You can also choose the colour if it matters. I have built many door cards and upholstery parts with it. Comes in up to 8x4 sheets.

mr rusty
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Re: Material for door card re-manufacture

#5 Post by mr rusty » Tue Jan 05, 2016 4:10 pm

You can get hardboard anywhere, B&Q, any of those places!
1968 Triumph Vitesse Mk1 2 litre convertible, Junior Miss rusty has a 1989 998cc Mk2 Metro, Mrs Rusty has a modern common rail diesel thing.

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JPB
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Re: Material for door card re-manufacture

#6 Post by JPB » Tue Jan 05, 2016 6:10 pm

J
"Home is where you park it", so the saying goes. That may yet come true.. :oops:

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gazza82
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Re: Material for door card re-manufacture

#7 Post by gazza82 » Tue Jan 05, 2016 7:26 pm


History
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Re: Material for door card re-manufacture

#8 Post by History » Tue Jan 05, 2016 9:16 pm

Wickes sells hard board. Also 3 mm marine ply is used by trimmers on the better cars.

Oil tempered hardboard is also available.

Pre cast glass fibre flat sheets.

Check out marine stuff.

Bob

rich.
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Re: Material for door card re-manufacture

#9 Post by rich. » Wed Jan 06, 2016 6:19 pm

could you do the panels in walnut? :idea:

History
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Re: Material for door card re-manufacture

#10 Post by History » Wed Jan 06, 2016 8:42 pm

It is in the realms of diy to make door cards that are as good as what MB fitted if not better.

Use 3 mm thick marine ply.

Cut to shape with holes for clips and furniture.

Cover with thin foam use trim adhesive.

Cover with cloth, vinyl or leather use trim adhesive.

Paint the back with enamel undercoat, I use black board paint.

Leather is real nice but expensive. So look out for old leather sofas. I found a black one. A quick slash with a craft knife yielded enough leather and some for retrimimg a centre consul.

Note. Wash the leather in warm soapy water using only toilet soap. Hang out to dry. But not bone dry. It must have some moisture. Leather works better when not bone brittle dry. Domestic sowing machine with quality sharp needles will work. Millwards make good needles.

Leather is skin and like human skin responds well to hand care products.


Bob

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