Rover SD1 2000 1984

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ruby
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Joined: Mon Jun 23, 2014 8:19 pm

Rover SD1 2000 1984

#1 Post by ruby » Tue Nov 17, 2015 10:12 pm

Can anyone help with the following odd problem? A simultaneous failure of the oil pressure gauge, oil pressure light and dash board clock . The failure is intermittent but function will only return when the engine has been at rest for at least 10 minutes. Failure can recur after anything between 5 and 30 minutes driving.

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JPB
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Re: Rover SD1 2000 1984

#2 Post by JPB » Wed Nov 18, 2015 10:05 am

A quick look at the wiring diagram suggests that the panel on this has an almost modern double sided board with earths at studs where there are vias for the purpose.
Bad connections of this sort can often be fixed by using a small length of fine wire (from a panel pin or paperclip) but if the track around the eyes of affected vias has lifted and eroded as a result, it might be time to find a better, used board.
J
"Home is where you park it", so the saying goes. That may yet come true.. :oops:

sierra3dr
Posts: 439
Joined: Fri Feb 11, 2011 10:20 am

Re: Rover SD1 2000 1984

#3 Post by sierra3dr » Wed Nov 18, 2015 12:31 pm

It might be down to BL wiring. It was mentioned to me,that one tail light was not working because of BL quality :)

History
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Re: Rover SD1 2000 1984

#4 Post by History » Wed Nov 18, 2015 10:30 pm

BL lamp holders at this time were notorious for poor earths and quality.

Have a good look at the pcb. If a track is burnt out it will be obvious. To repair simply solder a fine insulated wire to bridge the damaged bit.

Check the track that is common to the gauges.

To repair its best that the pcb is removed and done in comfort at the bench. Comfort equals neat job sort of thing.

The Rover 2000 SD1 was faster than one would expect. I drove a year old one and it surprised me.

Bob

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JPB
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Re: Rover SD1 2000 1984

#5 Post by JPB » Thu Nov 19, 2015 9:07 am

History wrote:If a track is burnt out it will be obvious
Ordinarily yes, on this board it will be anything but! It's all pretty well printed but the areas where the track goes round the vias can fail o/s invisibly as the vias' tiny, fine studs vibrate loose. There's not sufficient current to cause tangible arcing, so unless someone sets the car afire there'll be nothing other than meter readings to give the game away.

Yes, the 2 litre O series was capable of decent performance, but a couple of Dad's middle management employees ran these back in the day and the board's pool car - a 2600 auto with the ever so smooth IL6 - would consistently drink less than the O engined, manual versions. That said; most of the staff would choose the O series as the cars so equipped only seemed to visit the dealer when their service fell due or when one of the lunatic drivers hat hit a tree and needed to have [the tree] surgically removed from the engine bay. The IL6 cars, on the other hand, were forever in dock with camshaft-related issues. :|
J
"Home is where you park it", so the saying goes. That may yet come true.. :oops:

History
Posts: 365
Joined: Tue May 05, 2015 8:03 pm

Re: Rover SD1 2000 1984

#6 Post by History » Thu Nov 19, 2015 11:14 pm

The camshaft and cam box problems were caused in the main by wrong engine oil.
The 2600 I thought was nicer to drive than the V8 and probably just as fast. I drove a 2300 and that was ok as well.

Mpg with different engines fitted to the same body often show that fitting a smaller engine doesn't guarantee less fuel. Cortina 1600 Pinto is about the same Mpg as the 2000 pinto. I think probably the optimum engine for the SD1 is the 2300 reasonable performance and mpg.

The Rover SD1 was a flawed gem. It had simple mechanics fitted to a 4 door Daytona look alike. I used to service them and every thing was easy to do.
A good car for Diy.

So if one is looking out for a SD1 then the other engines apart from the V8 are worth checking out because the prices are lower. No shame in a OHC Straight Six engine or a 4 pot for that matter.

Agreed, sometimes pcbs can have invisible damage so multimeter testing is the way to go if its not obvious.
Also the time clock isn't on the same circuit as engine gauges but may use the same ground or earth. Also dry joints. I have had a few of these. The PCB has been fine for years then suddenly it plays up. Worth re soldering the whole lot. They use wave soldering at manufacture then check board on a bed of nails. If it passes the bed of nails its good to go. Unfortunately this doesn't always show up dry joints. Dry joints can show up one day later or 10 years later.

Also I would suggest that if the pcb is faulty that before fixing find out how much a new one is. It might be very cheap.

A few years back a mate went round a lot of scrap yards looking for a Vauxhall hand brake lever. Eventually he went to the main agent to find the lever was only 7 quid.


Bob

ruby
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Joined: Mon Jun 23, 2014 8:19 pm

Re: Rover SD1 2000 1984

#7 Post by ruby » Sat Nov 21, 2015 9:22 pm

Thanks to everyone for your ideas and suggestions - sharing a problem really does help and all your comments make sound sense. We've taken them 'on board' so we just waiting for weather improvement cos the car is outside! Thank you again for your trouble. ;)

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