Sort of dodgy subject I suspect but the trip counter in my RR has never worked, I have a replacement one but the odometer reads 129000 miles and the car has 184000 miles on it. I can wind it forwards by hand but it is REALLY slow.
I'm not really expecting an answer given that it would show how to go the other way too but is it possible to speed this up?
Clocking
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tractorman
- Posts: 1399
- Joined: Mon Feb 21, 2011 11:22 am
- Location: Wigton, Cumbria
Re: Clocking
I did read a story about someone in Kenya (I think) who had a similar problem with his Peugeot 504. He took it to the local garage and left it for a couple of days. When he called back, the car was in the air with the engine almost at full throttle and drive wheels spinning!
If it's a mechanical odometer, I seem to remember that you could ease the barrels round if you lifted the pawl a little. The trick is to get everything aligned properly afterwards. However, I would be tempted just to make a note of the mileage on both meters when you put the new odometer in; possibly stapling it to the V5 so it doesn't get lost. Then nobody can say you've clocked the car (there would probably be marks on the speedo if you try to open it and they tend to suggest the clock has been wound back).
If it's a mechanical odometer, I seem to remember that you could ease the barrels round if you lifted the pawl a little. The trick is to get everything aligned properly afterwards. However, I would be tempted just to make a note of the mileage on both meters when you put the new odometer in; possibly stapling it to the V5 so it doesn't get lost. Then nobody can say you've clocked the car (there would probably be marks on the speedo if you try to open it and they tend to suggest the clock has been wound back).
Re: Clocking
^^^ Yes, that. 
(Lifting the pawl will let you move the barrels forward but most Smith odometer movements will damage, and eventually wreck, the pawls on the individual barrels if you try to wind [the movement] backwards, this isn't some discrete form of anti-tampering thing but simply the nature of the device, the teeth on the inside of the individual barrels having a vertical edge but with a gentle rise facing the direction of rotation, rather than being symmetrical - I've no reason to doubt that other makers' devices are similar).
(Lifting the pawl will let you move the barrels forward but most Smith odometer movements will damage, and eventually wreck, the pawls on the individual barrels if you try to wind [the movement] backwards, this isn't some discrete form of anti-tampering thing but simply the nature of the device, the teeth on the inside of the individual barrels having a vertical edge but with a gentle rise facing the direction of rotation, rather than being symmetrical - I've no reason to doubt that other makers' devices are similar).
J
"Home is where you park it", so the saying goes. That may yet come true..
"Home is where you park it", so the saying goes. That may yet come true..
Re: Clocking
On an old motor I wouldn't bother, just make notes on your file with dates and mileages etc.
Kev
Kev
Re: Clocking
I'm sure I read somewhere that you could put the cable in an electric drill or is that a myth?
I also heard the one about a mate of a mate of a mate who back in the day took the odometer out of spitfire to Renew the freshness of the car and found "oh no. Not again!" written on the back. but I'm sure that's one of those urban myths.
I'd go with Kevin on this one. just make a note of the date and milages on the 2 clocks.
on our old cars that have been lovingly maintained with no expence spared milage is irrelevant anyway isn't it?
and whose to say thet the clock with 184 k is the original anyway.
I also heard the one about a mate of a mate of a mate who back in the day took the odometer out of spitfire to Renew the freshness of the car and found "oh no. Not again!" written on the back. but I'm sure that's one of those urban myths.
I'd go with Kevin on this one. just make a note of the date and milages on the 2 clocks.
on our old cars that have been lovingly maintained with no expence spared milage is irrelevant anyway isn't it?
and whose to say thet the clock with 184 k is the original anyway.Mike.
A Fatbloke in a Herald
A Fatbloke in a Herald
Re: Clocking
PS I had the same problem when I replaced the speedo on wifes Mini many years ago and called the police station to ask if I would be breaking the law. I was told that as long as I didn't claim that it was the actual milage when I sold it, all would be cushty.
Mike.
A Fatbloke in a Herald
A Fatbloke in a Herald
Re: Clocking
It could be argued that, since anyone may now check mileage on the MOT history site without the V5 (link below..), there's a lot to be said for maintaining the mileage as accurately as is possible.
Just a thought.
Is your neighbour driving illegally? Is their vehicle so badly kept that they only fix it once it fails its test rather than when it actually needs the attention? Grass the buggers up!
Check whether that car is currently in possession of a valid test certificate and how many advisories and stupid fails (baldy tyres, empty PW bottles, split wipers etc. stuff that really shouldn't get that far along) the vehicle has amassed here.
One downside to the newly available access to other folks' test info is that the usual eBay car search now takes much, much longer!
Just a thought.
Is your neighbour driving illegally? Is their vehicle so badly kept that they only fix it once it fails its test rather than when it actually needs the attention? Grass the buggers up!
Check whether that car is currently in possession of a valid test certificate and how many advisories and stupid fails (baldy tyres, empty PW bottles, split wipers etc. stuff that really shouldn't get that far along) the vehicle has amassed here.
One downside to the newly available access to other folks' test info is that the usual eBay car search now takes much, much longer!
J
"Home is where you park it", so the saying goes. That may yet come true..
"Home is where you park it", so the saying goes. That may yet come true..
Re: Clocking
It's sort of mechanical. The read out is mechanical but the drive is electric. I'm not hugely bothered but if someone said "there is a hidden screw here you can undo and wind it to whatever you want" then i'd have corrected it.
I might see if applying a voltage to the motor makes it turn or if it is a stepper motor and needs an ac frequency. The electronic bit is easily removed so it doesn't matter hugely if i have an accident with that.
As I'm hoping 2 more Sundays and I'll have finished welding so I'm sorting out the other things that bug me about the car in the evenings that i can do indoors.
I might see if applying a voltage to the motor makes it turn or if it is a stepper motor and needs an ac frequency. The electronic bit is easily removed so it doesn't matter hugely if i have an accident with that.
As I'm hoping 2 more Sundays and I'll have finished welding so I'm sorting out the other things that bug me about the car in the evenings that i can do indoors.
Understeer: when you hit the wall with the front of the car.
Oversteer: when you hit the wall with the back of the car.
Horsepower: how fast you hit the wall.
Torque: how far you take the wall with you.
Oversteer: when you hit the wall with the back of the car.
Horsepower: how fast you hit the wall.
Torque: how far you take the wall with you.
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tractorman
- Posts: 1399
- Joined: Mon Feb 21, 2011 11:22 am
- Location: Wigton, Cumbria
Re: Clocking
Thinking back a few years, the PCB on the Passat's dashboard packed up at about 125K miles and it took a month to get the correct replacement (it was electronic drive with "mechanical" clocks etc. I guesstimated the car had done 132K by the time the replacement PCB came and, when I took it in, I told them that it should read 132K. It came out with 000001 on the clock and they said the reading couldn't be changed.
When I came to sell the car, it had about 80K on the clock and the bloke who bought it knew it had done over 200K, but said it was obviously well looked after for a car that had only done 80K in nine years! So, even if you are honest, there's no guarantee that the next owner will be as honest!
However, I suspect that you will be holding on to the RR for a few years after all that welding and engine rebuilds etc. You never know, the speedo may go again before you sell it!
When I came to sell the car, it had about 80K on the clock and the bloke who bought it knew it had done over 200K, but said it was obviously well looked after for a car that had only done 80K in nine years! So, even if you are honest, there's no guarantee that the next owner will be as honest!
However, I suspect that you will be holding on to the RR for a few years after all that welding and engine rebuilds etc. You never know, the speedo may go again before you sell it!
Re: Clocking
OK, I have the speedo and it's drive in 1,000 pieces. It IS possible to dismantle the drive and connect a drill. However even at 1 mile per second and with plenty of silicone lubrication a) i'm fairly sure it will melt before i add enough miles and b) i have had to fit a small nylon cog in to my pillar drill and put the speedometer in a vice held in just the right place for it all to line up. I suspect none of it will stay in place for long enough to add a significant number of miles before something moves or it all falls on the floor.
New plan: spend £9.50 on ebay buying a set of clocks showing 170,000 miles (the highest mileage i could find) so i don't have to go as far. sit in the living room spinning the dial until it is correct.
I am both pleased and annoyed that this job is such a fiddle.
Hopefully next time this happens it will close to an even number of 100,000s of miles so i can correct it with tippex
New plan: spend £9.50 on ebay buying a set of clocks showing 170,000 miles (the highest mileage i could find) so i don't have to go as far. sit in the living room spinning the dial until it is correct.
I am both pleased and annoyed that this job is such a fiddle.
Hopefully next time this happens it will close to an even number of 100,000s of miles so i can correct it with tippex
Understeer: when you hit the wall with the front of the car.
Oversteer: when you hit the wall with the back of the car.
Horsepower: how fast you hit the wall.
Torque: how far you take the wall with you.
Oversteer: when you hit the wall with the back of the car.
Horsepower: how fast you hit the wall.
Torque: how far you take the wall with you.
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