Spade connectors
Spade connectors
This is a 5 minute job that should have been simple!
I'm wiring up a voltage stabiliser on my mgb. Old one came off, new one has different connectors 2 male, 2 female. on it. After looking at a couple of others, they all seem to have this ( old one had 4 male) .
So need to change one of the connectors on the loom from male to a female connector.
How do I simply get an old spade connector off? The stabiliser wiring is a pain to get to anyway and don't want to cause any damage!
Next question, I always have new connectors ready but which colour? The car still has old connectors which have no colour. I'm guessing blue?
Many thanks.
I'm wiring up a voltage stabiliser on my mgb. Old one came off, new one has different connectors 2 male, 2 female. on it. After looking at a couple of others, they all seem to have this ( old one had 4 male) .
So need to change one of the connectors on the loom from male to a female connector.
How do I simply get an old spade connector off? The stabiliser wiring is a pain to get to anyway and don't want to cause any damage!
Next question, I always have new connectors ready but which colour? The car still has old connectors which have no colour. I'm guessing blue?
Many thanks.
Re: Spade connectors
You mention colour, by this am I right in assuming that you plan to use crimped connectors? If you want the original appearance, use decent brass terminals and solder them on with clear sleeves as per original. The colour on the crimping terminals refers simply to the gauge of the wire you wish to terminate with one and doesn't relate in any way to the o/e wiring colours. To get the correct genders on the unit to work with the existing loom, use the correct type of VR rather than the single version you described above..
Edited: "Hazard flasher" replaced by "VR"..
Edited: "Hazard flasher" replaced by "VR"..
Last edited by JPB on Sat Jul 25, 2015 10:35 am, edited 1 time in total.
J
"Home is where you park it", so the saying goes. That may yet come true..
"Home is where you park it", so the saying goes. That may yet come true..
Re: Spade connectors
Crimp on connectors must be crimped with the correct tool. The plier type things that come with cheap kits are usless. The proper ones have a ratchet and click off at correct crimping force. The proper tool is expensive.
If you must use these type then pull off the coloured sleeve and solder the spade to the wire and then heat shrink over the spade and wire.
I have a reel of brass spades and a box of dainty plastic covers which look very original and period.
Bob.
If you must use these type then pull off the coloured sleeve and solder the spade to the wire and then heat shrink over the spade and wire.
I have a reel of brass spades and a box of dainty plastic covers which look very original and period.
Bob.
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Re: Spade connectors
There is the alternative - use connectors (male-male):
http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/p ... category/7
While they aren't perfect, it does save having to alter the wiring - which may save hassle if you come across the correct regulator (or whatever!).
When I was working in the chemical industry, an engineer from some instrument firm came to check out some weighing gear and he used a ratchet crimp tool. He said it had to go for testing on a regular basis to make sure it crimped to the correct pressure! While my ratchet crimpers never get tested, it is important to make sure the crimp is done properly! Experience is the important thing with the cheap crimp tools - while the crimps need to be tight, it is important they are not too tight (so the tool almost cuts a grove in the metal that can fracture in use).
There is nothing wrong with insulated terminals - they are standard fare in many industries' control/instrument and electrical departments and, if they were dangerous, they would never be used in Haz-Op situations! However, I don't like to use them in older vehicles for cosmetic reasons!
I much prefer the "original" non-insulated terminals and plastic covers and have an ordinary "pliers-type" crimp tool to make a neat finish on the terminal - then soldered with a gas soldering iron with the soldering tip removed (a sort of micro-flame). Using this, I can solder to insulated terminals too, though there isn't much metal to solder to on those (the insulation is longer than the metal for obvious reasons! Make sure there is a heat sink on the cable though - I use a pair of mini-mole grips to stop the insulation melting. I prefer proper sleeves to heat-shrink (I use a lot on ring terminals).
http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/p ... category/7
While they aren't perfect, it does save having to alter the wiring - which may save hassle if you come across the correct regulator (or whatever!).
When I was working in the chemical industry, an engineer from some instrument firm came to check out some weighing gear and he used a ratchet crimp tool. He said it had to go for testing on a regular basis to make sure it crimped to the correct pressure! While my ratchet crimpers never get tested, it is important to make sure the crimp is done properly! Experience is the important thing with the cheap crimp tools - while the crimps need to be tight, it is important they are not too tight (so the tool almost cuts a grove in the metal that can fracture in use).
There is nothing wrong with insulated terminals - they are standard fare in many industries' control/instrument and electrical departments and, if they were dangerous, they would never be used in Haz-Op situations! However, I don't like to use them in older vehicles for cosmetic reasons!
I much prefer the "original" non-insulated terminals and plastic covers and have an ordinary "pliers-type" crimp tool to make a neat finish on the terminal - then soldered with a gas soldering iron with the soldering tip removed (a sort of micro-flame). Using this, I can solder to insulated terminals too, though there isn't much metal to solder to on those (the insulation is longer than the metal for obvious reasons! Make sure there is a heat sink on the cable though - I use a pair of mini-mole grips to stop the insulation melting. I prefer proper sleeves to heat-shrink (I use a lot on ring terminals).
Re: Spade connectors
RED= small BLUE=medium YELLOW= large the colour is generally the wire gauge but also the terminal tends get larger with gauge.
Re: Spade connectors
Cut a piece of copper to the size so that it fits into the femal conector on the voltage stabiliser with enough sticking out for the femail connector on the loom to plug onto. or you might even be able to by double ended male converters?
Or would that be considered the hight of bad bodgery?
Edit. Oh...that's what tractorman said...Sorry.
Or would that be considered the hight of bad bodgery?
Edit. Oh...that's what tractorman said...Sorry.
Last edited by Fatbloke on Tue Jul 28, 2015 1:41 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Mike.
A Fatbloke in a Herald
A Fatbloke in a Herald
Re: Spade connectors
Good idea Fatbloke.
This is not a bodge. Use a bit of domestic water pipe. I think the spade width is 6.35 mm or 1/4" wide.
Bob.
This is not a bodge. Use a bit of domestic water pipe. I think the spade width is 6.35 mm or 1/4" wide.
Bob.
Re: Spade connectors
^^^^^ WSS, and don't forget to drill the tiny hole in each end and file down a wider piece so that the bar across the middle can be replicated. But seriously, it would be cheaper to buy some XX connectors - even at the Halfords - than to make your own unless your time is worth less than minimum wage.
Better yet: Use the correct VR and this will cease to be an issue. Or empty the strip out of the old one and make your own, the chip is around 80p from Maplin or Farnell and you don't need the caps though they are a good plan for best stability.
Better yet: Use the correct VR and this will cease to be an issue. Or empty the strip out of the old one and make your own, the chip is around 80p from Maplin or Farnell and you don't need the caps though they are a good plan for best stability.
Last edited by JPB on Tue Jul 28, 2015 8:16 pm, edited 1 time in total.
J
"Home is where you park it", so the saying goes. That may yet come true..
"Home is where you park it", so the saying goes. That may yet come true..
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Re: Spade connectors
Haven't we had this discussion before? All the manufacturers specify the capacitors. They cost pennies. They are required for stability.JPB wrote:^^^^^ WSS, and don't forget to drill the tiny hole in each end and file down a wider piece so that the bar across the middle can be replicated. But seriously, it would be cheaper to buy the XX connectors - even at the Halfords - than to make your own unless your time is worth less than minimum wage.
Better yet: Use the correct VR and this will cease to be an issue. Or empty the strip out of the old one and make your own, the chip is around 80p from Maplin or Farnell and you don't need decoupling caps though they are a good plan for best stability.
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