daimler 250 v8 1967 recomissioning

[harvey]

anyone ever used a finger tool to remove seals with the crank still in place?

cheers

lee

Yes. I await the invitable barrage of questions with great anticipation.

[lhubbard]

cheers Harvey !!


its a fool who does not seek help when he is not an expert in a particular field and also consults when he is not sure saves lots of damage and swearing.

so I will start with the usual run though of the procedure obviously I have now dropped off the sump so I can get at the seal. I have ordered two seals and also a finger kit to assist me.

would you run me though the procedure? as I can see you are waiting with anticipation...


cheers

lee

[harvey]

IIRC you do get a fairly comprehensive guide inside the tool kit, but it's worth noting that a standard rear main seal kit is no good. You can use one piece in the bottom half (in the cap) but because the tool needs a length of seal to grip on to you need a longer seal for that, otherwise either you can't get the tool off, or the trailing end of the seal dissappears when you pull it far enough to get the tool disconnected. A good engineeering firm (engine reconditioners) should be able to match you up a seal that's longer as used in an old commercial. Remove the plugs, and slacken all the mains caps a touch, remove the rear main cap, and then run the seal round from the offside to the nearside, rotating the engine in its normal direction to help it along its way. You can do that with a socket on the crank nut or a remote starter, just little flicks at a time while pulling the tool, or on the flexplate bolts if you can get to them. Personally as I'd be that close I'd inspect the ends and mains shells while I was there, and if they're showing copper I'd replace them, as you're so close and they can be done in-situ. If you can get the sump off, I can't see any reason why you wouldn't be able to replace the bearings as well, but I don't have specific knowledge of any clearance issues that might prevent that in your application. Plus worn shells in the rear main bearing mean pressure loss out through the side, directly against the seal, making any leaks worse. Make sure all the engine breathing system is clear as well.

[lhubbard]

Hi there Harvey

I thought about doing the shells as well and ordered a new set of them. makes sense to do that as a matter of course while I am under the car. I assume that I should remove a shell to see if they are +10, +20 which I assume is marked on them.

I did not know about the seal size though I have a pair of standards (one spare) so before I look replacing the seal I will see if I can get a longer length.

Is it worth trying one of the seal halves see if with the engine rotating that will go in?

cheers

lee

[harvey]

Is it worth trying one of the seal halves see if with the engine rotating that will go in?

They won't go round without the tool to pull them, and you can't use the tool with a standard length seal, so not worth trying.

[lhubbard]

thanks mate...my knowledge is increasing daily ...cheers

[lhubbard]

having got a shell out there is no obvious marks on the shell and as far as I know the crank has not been reground. shells are packaged at 0 - +40 going up in 10s I assume thats for ground cranks. How can one tell the shells to pick?

cheers

lee

[TerryG]

If you have a set of callipers you could measure the crank to check it is the factory size. If it hasn't been reground and doesn't need one then 0 is what you need. If the shells that are in there look OK, why change them?

[JPB]

.....If the shells that are in there look OK, why change them?

....Because, unless the O/P is the world's luckiest man, it's scarcely worth the risk of having a tab fracture which could allow that journal's shells to run. When I was doing my training with International Motors back in the '80s, we were taught never to re-use shells for that very reason. I know that many people get away with it but even with the current cost of decent shells being quite high, I wouldn't take a risk like that.

[lhubbard]

hi there guys

I was goign to use new shells as a matter of course, like JPB I was also taught never use old shells as these have been subjected to heat and stresses and can become brittle. I have been thinking about this for a while now and due to the number of things I could do I think I will take out the engine and do them on the bench. It makes sense as then I can replace seals and bearing as well as shells, possibly replace the head gaskits and look at the piston rings. It also allows me to clean and format the engine bay which would complete the engine bay and also means that I can be confident that the engine will be up to daily use without failure.

Also allows me to sort out some issues with manifold gaskits and rocker covers in a move comftable position.

lots of work but worth the time I think

best regards

lee