daimler 250 v8 1967 recomissioning

[lhubbard]

hi there everyone

well engine is in but still dry at the moment. I have found a problem however that is very strange. The new engine has the same water and dynamo fitted but the old belt does not fit and I have had to go up to a slightly larger belt. Is there any change in block size between older and newer engines? Its not a problem but strange.

Secondly I need some new rubber electrical joining blocks that connect the loom to the lights. there are two of them one on each wing with multi connectors. Anyone know the part no as I would like to use similar to the original which fits in a square holder on the front wing.

engine will be fluided up tomorrow and see how it goes from there. will use starter motor without HT coil lead to turn engine and lubricate the block before attempting to start.

I have acquired some specialist coolant (ammonia based ( used in aluminium headed bus engines) that I am thinking of trying. as the engine is dry at the moment internally anyone got any thoughts on this, I know a lot of alternative water free coolants are out there and this is highly recommended by friend who restores classic buses 1960's etc).

cheers

lee

[TerryG]

I can't help with the belt but with your electrical connectors do you mean these things:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4-7mm-Double- ... 0611104264
or these things:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4-7mm-Single- ... 0611104261

[lhubbard]

dear Terry

many thanks, I can get those type but the ones I want are 6 of them molded into a square rubber block. I may have to make one myself.

best regards

lee

[DaveB]

The crank pulley wheels for standard steering and power steering versions of the v8 engine are different. The centre crank pulley nut is also a different size.

I'll check my parts manual for the belt sizes and also the part number for the light connector. Do you have the sealed beam units?

Best wishes, Dave B

[DaveB]

Whoops! Should also have added to my last posting a recommendation to use Propylene Glycol instead of Ethylene Glycol. Use 50% dilution as a coolant. Long story short: less corrosive, longer lasting, kinder to the environment, same price!

I can send you a technical paper if you're interested.

Best wishes, Dave B

[lhubbard]

hi there Dave

I seen to have a bit of an issue with the lumination module which seems to fair to give spark. before I start tampering can I check something.

cylinder position.


window screen

4r 4l
3r 3l
2r 2l
1r 1l

radiator

secondly are you DaveB from Daimler and Lancaster owners club as if so hello fellow member.

cheers

lee

[JPB]

You're running a V8 on one amp? I didn't know that Lumenition made a suitable one. How are the outputs from the distributor modules timed if so?


And 50% is too much, conductivity is at its optimum at around 30%, more than that and the coolant acts as an insulation medium so will prevent cooling to its full extent. Good call on the propylene glycol though but. Cat owners will thank you for that approach though the thermal characteristics are exactly the same as these of ethylene glycol at the same ratio.

[DaveB]

Hi Lee,

Firstly, yes, your diagram is the way that Daimler refer to the cylinder layout. I think of it as sitting from the drivers seat, R1 is at the front on the rhs and R4 is closest to me on the rhs.

Secondly, on the subject of cylinder numbering, when it comes to tuning those wonderful HD6 carbs it is worth noting thet the lhs carb (from the perspective of the driver) feeds rhs cylinders 2 & 3 and lhs cylinders 1 & 4. By deduction therefore the rhs carb feeds rhs cylinders 1 & 4 and lhs cylinders 2 & 3. if you ever get different burning colours on the plugs on one cylinder bank you'll know why! Apologies if you already knew this.

Thirdly, you mention Lumenition: do you have a Lumenition Optronic electronic ignition system? if so, me too! I have the setup documentation etc. if you need it. I have found it faultless and it gives good all round performance.

Finally, yes I am that man! My DLOC forum id is captain bobo (long story, don't ask!!!).

Final finally, I have to replace the upper and lower steering column bushes. Not very complex but highly labour intensive.

Abloutely the final comment on this posting: I haven't had a chance to check the parts manual for those connector part numbers yet.

Best wishes, Dave B

[lhubbard]

hi there Dave

that sounds exactly as I thought. I do have positive earth lumination that I fitted this year. after fitting the new engine the system is now refusing to produce a spark even though its not been touched. The unit is less than a year old so I am a little perturbed to find it has stopped working.

cheers

lee

[JPB]

Is it Optronic and are the spliced connections between the distributor modules' outputs all clean? They're the single most common source of failures in these but as I said, do you run both with just one amp? Most V8s with that distributor run an amp for each module. I've de-potted more Optronic and Opus amps than I've had c/b ignition systems replaced by them through the years so if you need any new Darlington transistors and decoupling caps of the type suitable for these, or replacements for either of the distributor modules, they're no use to me these days. Cost of postage only if so.
And please do not add 50% anti freeze or you will struggle to keep it cool in Summer. It's a common myth that more is better but anything beyond neat distilled water removes cooling ability and even the correct 33% is a compromise that would benefit from the use of water wetter or similar to restore some of the thermal conductivity.