Captive nut broken free in closed box section.

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bnicho
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Location: Melbourne, Australia

Captive nut broken free in closed box section.

#1 Post by bnicho » Sat Feb 12, 2011 10:30 am

I've done something really silly.

About a year ago I replaced the carpets in my Corona Coupe. This morning I noticed the the right front seat bolt on the drivers seat was not snugged down tight. So I got a big spanner and tightened it. With a crack, it spun free.

At first I though I'd stripped the thread. No problem, get the stuffed bolt out and put in a heli-coil. But no! What I have done is broke the captive nut free. I must have cross threaded the bolt when I put in last time. Or the thread has bottomed out.

The captive nut is welded inside a box section. I cant get the seat out until I grind or break the head off the bolt. That's pretty obvious. But then what?

I can only see two options once I have the bolt head off and the seat is out:

1. Let the captive nut rattle around in there forever and fit a nutsert or rivnut to the hole.

2. Use a 1" hole saw to make a hole, either from underneath or above, so I can pull out the old nut and attempt to weld a new nut in there. If I access from above, the evidence will be hidden under the carpet. If I access from below I'd need to fit a grommet or something to plug the hole.

Suggestions welcome.

Cheers,
Brett.
Brett Nicholson
1965 Morris Mini Traveller - Trixie
1966 Austin Mini Super-Deluxe - Audrey
1969 Morris Mini Van - Desert Assault Van
1971 Morris Moke - Mopoke
1974 VW Super Beetle - Olive
2009 Nissan Pathfinder

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Luxobarge
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Location: Horne, Surreyshire

Re: Captive nut broken free in closed box section.

#2 Post by Luxobarge » Sat Feb 12, 2011 11:01 am

Brett, I also can't see an alternative that isn't too bodge-like.

I'd go for option 2 - a right PITA but the right thing to do, especially if you can "go in from the top" and hide the evidence as you say.

Cheers :D
Some people are like Slinkies - they serve no useful purpose, but they still bring a smile to your face when you push them downstairs.

jimmyybob
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Re: Captive nut broken free in closed box section.

#3 Post by jimmyybob » Sat Feb 12, 2011 8:59 pm

^^WHS^^

bubs
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Re: Captive nut broken free in closed box section.

#4 Post by bubs » Mon Feb 14, 2011 11:33 pm

depending on how you want your finnish, I'd drill that hole under the head from under the car to give access, then snap the bolt by trying to undo it, remove the seat, put a new nut and bolt in the hole and tighten it up, then from the under side tack the nut in place, then you can weld the hole up or put in a rubber drain plug, do the same on the other side and it would look factory.

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Mrotwoman
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Re: Captive nut broken free in closed box section.

#5 Post by Mrotwoman » Tue Feb 15, 2011 3:48 pm

Had the same with my bumpers on the BMW E21,captive nut inside the chassis rail was knackered,ended up drilling all the way through and used longer coach bolts and cut of any excess thread on the other side.
Have you forgotten that once we were brought here we were robbed of our names,robbed of our language,we lost our religion,our culture,our God? And many of us by the way we act,we even lost our minds.

bnicho
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Joined: Wed Jan 05, 2011 8:35 am
Location: Melbourne, Australia

Re: Captive nut broken free in closed box section.

#6 Post by bnicho » Tue Feb 15, 2011 11:33 pm

I'm off on holidays now, so I'll get stuck into this job when I get back.

Cheers,
Brett Nicholson
1965 Morris Mini Traveller - Trixie
1966 Austin Mini Super-Deluxe - Audrey
1969 Morris Mini Van - Desert Assault Van
1971 Morris Moke - Mopoke
1974 VW Super Beetle - Olive
2009 Nissan Pathfinder

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