oxidized iron

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sierra3dr
Posts: 439
Joined: Fri Feb 11, 2011 10:20 am

oxidized iron

#1 Post by sierra3dr » Wed Nov 18, 2015 12:39 pm

as we know is rust. Some interesting convertors/inhibitors
http://www.fertan.co.uk/
http://performance-chemicals.net/vactan/
http://flagpaints.co.uk/product-browser ... -converter

Since I cannot find my fertan,buried in my workshop somewhere. So I'm going to give the Flag a bash

Please add if you know others

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gazza82
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Location: Buckinghamshire
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Re: oxidized iron

#2 Post by gazza82 » Wed Nov 18, 2015 12:53 pm

Bilt Hamber DEOX-C and DEOX-GEL, and Hydrate 80 and in full time use in my garage

http://www.bilthamber.com/corrosion-pro ... treatments
"If you're driving on the edge ... you're leaving too much room!"

Retirement Project: '59 Austin A35 2-door with 1330cc Midget engine and many upgrades
Said goodbye: got '98 Alfa Romeo 156 2.0 TSpark to 210K miles before tin worm struck

rich.
Posts: 6804
Joined: Wed Jan 05, 2011 9:18 pm

Re: oxidized iron

#3 Post by rich. » Wed Nov 18, 2015 2:40 pm

i have used cold galvanising paint in the past.. not for cars but its been quite effective..

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JPB
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Joined: Fri Jan 07, 2011 3:24 pm

Re: oxidized iron

#4 Post by JPB » Wed Nov 18, 2015 5:18 pm

Not having salt on the roads helps, but it's getting harder to avoid areas that do use the evil stuff these days.
Of course there are other potential - and usually climatic - causes of premature corrosion such as living by the sea and running a car made from the sh*te Russian steel that spelt death to so many Alfas (and BL things of certain periods), which is why I have always had good results with Shell Ensis (V and other recipes). Its use when the car was new is most likely the reason that I currently own a completely rust free, 25 year old Toyota and whenever I've been the first to apply anything to one of my cars, the Ensis has worked then too. The one car whose rot caught me unawares (when a potential buyer found it! :oops: ) was one of the Reliant Rebels and that had been dosed with Waxoyl since new, when the supplying dealer had injected every single part of the car's chassis, its body frame and the underside of all of its wooden parts. That car taught me that a) Waxoyl is rubbish if applied to things that were built from steel intended to flash rust before being coated with the epoxy primer used by the likes of Reliant and Noble, and that b) Waxoyl is really good for wooden things :lol: , the rear floor of that Rebel was as fresh as a daisy in spite of the fact that there was rust in one of its 16swg tubular sections, a section that had been capped, filled with the famously smelly Prudhoe-made mixture of cheese and silage**, then capped and sealed at the other end.

I have the invoice showing that the original keeper of the AE92 spent £240 :shock: on Ensis treatment and, even now, some twenty five years on, the coating is still capable of healing when it takes a hit from a small stone or similar.

** - well go on, what else could it be made from? Certainly nothing that wants to remain attached to steel, paint or light surface corrosion, beyond these things, what use is the stuff? Oh wait, Chipperite is made in the same plant! 'I remember when that used to work..
J
"Home is where you park it", so the saying goes. That may yet come true.. :oops:

History
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Joined: Tue May 05, 2015 8:03 pm

Re: oxidized iron

#5 Post by History » Wed Nov 18, 2015 10:15 pm

The gumption that turns rusty metal blue is also known as naval jelly. ( no not belly button fluff it doesn't work).

Rust is iron going home to its natural state. Mother nature.

Fortunately I live in Bournemouth Dorset and road gritters are very rare. About once every 5 years. I don't drive my car if tge roads are salted. When we do get snow by lunch its melted and then it rains whuch hooefully washes the salt off.
Try this just for enlightenment. Clean piece of steel and wet with salt water and leave for 24 hours.

Notice that where old cars have leaked oil the steel is not so rusty and even as good as new.

Bob.

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JPB
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Joined: Fri Jan 07, 2011 3:24 pm

Re: oxidized iron

#6 Post by JPB » Thu Nov 19, 2015 6:42 pm

Image
Image
Image
History wrote:..Clean piece of steel and wet with salt water and leave for 24 hours...
OK, steps one and two completed. Waiting..
J
"Home is where you park it", so the saying goes. That may yet come true.. :oops:

History
Posts: 365
Joined: Tue May 05, 2015 8:03 pm

Re: oxidized iron

#7 Post by History » Thu Nov 19, 2015 10:36 pm

It will start to rust.

Bob.

rich.
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Re: oxidized iron

#8 Post by rich. » Fri Nov 20, 2015 6:34 am


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Luxobarge
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Location: Horne, Surreyshire

Re: oxidized iron

#9 Post by Luxobarge » Fri Nov 20, 2015 8:23 am

History wrote:It will start to rust.

Bob.
Good greif, really? History - do you not know what John is trying to say in his 3-picture post above?

We're not stupid on here you know........
Some people are like Slinkies - they serve no useful purpose, but they still bring a smile to your face when you push them downstairs.

rich.
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Re: oxidized iron

#10 Post by rich. » Fri Nov 20, 2015 12:05 pm

:lol: :lol: :lol:

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