Practically Classics Forum

Hi all- I am new to welding. I have been on the usual college course and duly welded my test pieces for destructive testing- and all went well. BUT I am well aware that there is a world of difference between sticking two tiny pieces of 1.5mm together and tackling a real car body! I know I will make mistakes and so I am not going to start on a car that deserves proper attention. So- what would be the best car to practice panel repair/replacement? It needs to be cheap to buy and with a ready supply of all body panels preferably as cheap as possible- I anticipate maybe needing more than one of each until I get it right.. This means I am probably looking at something like a relatively recent (and l unpopular?) car for which supply of both car and panels exceeds demand? Maybe a metro? I'm not sure - has anyone any advice or suggestions? Also- if anyone is doing body resto close to Guildford and doesn't mind a spectator that would be good too!
Cheers All- Mike

Id be tempted to say Metro too or Ford Escort Mk4 or later, Renault 5, mini , minor or anything that, like you say, the parts are still available for. There is always the E type Jag, now that would really test your welding skills and all the repair panels are available from SNG Barratt or Martin Robey

I'd say a Mini or a Minor saloon.....probably the Minor, as the wings are bolt on and the steel is a bit thicker than on the Mini (They knew more about weight saving when the Mini came along).

I have no experience with chassised cars but I reckon a Herald derived car could be good (The body isn't structural and maybe the chassis isn't so fussy in terms of appearance). Minor LCVs had chassis but I don't think the repair panels are quite as easy to get as for the car versions.

Minor definitely, the mini's shell is much more fiddly to weld as the original sequence was frankly rather illogical and isn't easy to replicate, even with the appropriate Thatcham Methods slides to help.

But better yet, go for something simpler than either as a first project and that's where the Herald comes into its own. Even a total novice can look at a pile of bits that used to be a Herald and work out what needs to go where, no Thatcham needed, not that they covered the Herald as far as I'm aware (and I have access to pretty much every Thatcham methods slide at work). Start with the chassis as it's made from thick steel that is very forgiving then, once you master the technique, move on to the panels.

Few - if any - more modern cars are as straightforward to practise on and Heralds that need welding but are complete can still be found in regional yellow papers for three figure sums beginning 1 or 2. Even examples with a chance of getting you home from the seller's location and carrying a short MOT can be had for well under £500, so around the same as a more modern car that would be harder to work out and would more than likely die from some random, electrical disease long before it could be bought in need of welding, unless you were to consider an accident damaged car and that's not a good plan for a novice either.

Another vote for a Herald. I'm not far from Guildford and might be able to help out with finding one (having just got two for nothing with my mate mark ).

Cheers everybody and thanks for the help- I am swayed towards the Herald although I'm not sure how available (or pricey) the bits are. I will do some checking but I think Rimmer and Frost do a lot of the mecanicals. I would consider a Minor but place that in my category of "cars that deserve better attention" than I am likely to be able to give at the start at least. I don't want to ruin a potential classic for the future. Same goes for a "real" mini although not the metro (yet); but I take the sensible point about the chassis- maybe monocoque is too ambitious as a first project?
Mike

Herald parts are among the cheapest of any classic. There are so many Triumph specialists competing for custom that the prices are kept very low. Canley Classics are my favourites (Rimmers are too pricey for me). Frost supplies tools, paints, etc. rather than parts for specific models.

James Paddock is my all-time favourite supplier for Triumph bits as they're more competent than the aptly named Rimmers, as cheap as anyone and gives great service with quick delivery.

Suspension and steering bits for the Herald are far easier than those for the later, unitary small Triumphs (1300, 1500, 1500TC, Toledo, Dolomite) and are shared with the four wheeled Reliant Rebel and Scimitar as well as many kit car builders, new trunnions are cheap, upper (ball) joints even cheaper, wishbone and other bushes are all stock parts, none of which are unique to the car.
The small journal Stanpart OHV engine - especially in 13/60 form - is as strong as they come and again easy to obtain parts (and upgrades) for.

majcd213 wrote:maybe monocoque is too ambitious as a first project?

I wouldn't dare to presume that since I don't know how much talent you'll find you have once you start your project, but repairing the relatively heavy chassis steel of a Herald flatters a beginner's welds and there's relatively little chance of burning holes or causing fatal distortion.
As a left-field suggestion and another chassis-based classic that is ideal for a first timer; Land Rover. They come apart easily and again, a pile of parts can soon be made back into a working vehicle even by someone who never saw one before and has no methods manual.
Not as cheap to buy as playworn Heralds, but big fun and complete with one of the strongest followings of any classic.

Hello There

The Mini is an ideal candidate, except for the stupid prices they now fetch. but you do have to know a thing or two if you are not to get into trouble with the sequence of work order.

Heralds are great. E-type for the experienced only. Metro's and Escorts are what I cut my teeth on. Fiat Chinqueccento ( ????) would be a good idea. But dealing with rusty old junkers is the best way to learn the art of restoration.

MOT welding can be profitable will give you a good grounding.

Thinking again

My welding instructor said that you needed to be able to join 'rusty air'. So perhaps you should buy an old Alfa!