'Tank' A 'Rolling Resto' Bloggy (of sorts)

Post pictures and stories about your cars both present and past. Also post up "blogs" on your restoration projects - the more pictures the better! Note: blog-type threads often get few replies, but are often read by many members, and provide interest and motivation to other enthusiasts so don't be disappointed if you don't get many replies.
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Paul240480
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Re: 'Tank' A 'Rolling Resto' Bloggy (of sorts)

#31 Post by Paul240480 » Tue Mar 08, 2011 8:43 am

edited in error :oops:
Last edited by Paul240480 on Wed May 09, 2012 8:05 am, edited 2 times in total.

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TerryG
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Re: 'Tank' A 'Rolling Resto' Bloggy (of sorts)

#32 Post by TerryG » Tue Mar 08, 2011 10:51 am

At least you had the good sense to join Le AA ;) is 171 euros dear for a battery, regulator and hours labour over there?
Understeer: when you hit the wall with the front of the car.
Oversteer: when you hit the wall with the back of the car.
Horsepower: how fast you hit the wall.
Torque: how far you take the wall with you.

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Paul240480
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Re: 'Tank' A 'Rolling Resto' Bloggy (of sorts)

#33 Post by Paul240480 » Tue Mar 08, 2011 12:11 pm

TerryG wrote:At least you had the good sense to join Le AA ;) is 171 euros dear for a battery, regulator and hours labour over there?

Le AA is included automatically with my insurance 8-) Axa-France. The price was, in fairness pretty good. IIRC the battery was 88€ + Tax, the reg' was around 15€ + Tax & labour was around 47€ + Tax

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Paul240480
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Re: 'Tank' A 'Rolling Resto' Bloggy (of sorts)

#34 Post by Paul240480 » Mon Mar 21, 2011 5:45 pm

Well, I decided that my PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) System was over due for a clean out the other day. I've not touched it since 05 when it was so blocked that it caused oil to force its way out through the rocker cover :oops:

T'was all going so well until I forgot how brittle the plastic parts get & snapped the small nipple off of the flame trap holder :roll: Had to sort of bodge the pipe into place with a bit of gaffer-tape!

A new flame trap & holder & a length of pipe arrived in the post today :D

So will start all over again soon, & will take a few pics to add here :)

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Paul240480
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Re: 'Tank' A 'Rolling Resto' Bloggy (of sorts)

#35 Post by Paul240480 » Tue Apr 12, 2011 7:20 am

PCV has been done. A new bit of pipe from the flame trap holder to air intake. Flame trap was removed in 05 by me, as Volvo decided thay were not required & removed them as part of servicing. As Tank had been serviced by the same mobile mec' for many years I guess he never knew.....
A few pics: :D
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Location of the two pipes

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'Bellows' removed - makes it easier to get to the flme trap holder & is a good time to clean the plate & bowl anyway 8-)

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New flame trap holder with nipple in tact :shock: :lol: Still can't beleive I was clumsy enough to break my old one, should know better by now :oops:

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New holder going in, with new length of pipe attached, ready to be cut to size & look at my shiney clean 'bowl & plate' :D

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Cleaned out connector for the thin pipe to air intake manifold. (I did clean the fat pipe, but failed on the pic :oops: )

Anyway, you get the idea. I took around 22 pics of the procedure & have written the job up as an article for the 200 series forum on VOC :D

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Paul240480
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Re: 'Tank' A 'Rolling Resto' Bloggy (of sorts)

#36 Post by Paul240480 » Thu Apr 14, 2011 7:42 pm

I just had to pull over and take a snap of this, this evening 8-)
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Go Tank!

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TerryG
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Re: 'Tank' A 'Rolling Resto' Bloggy (of sorts)

#37 Post by TerryG » Thu Apr 14, 2011 8:27 pm

another 50,000 to go before the end of the running in period then. better get motoring! ;)
Understeer: when you hit the wall with the front of the car.
Oversteer: when you hit the wall with the back of the car.
Horsepower: how fast you hit the wall.
Torque: how far you take the wall with you.

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Paul240480
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Re: 'Tank' A 'Rolling Resto' Bloggy (of sorts)

#38 Post by Paul240480 » Sun Jun 26, 2011 1:08 pm

Well Tank has been behaving himself of late. The only update is that I have eventually replaced a very tired looking brake servo hose. Went for an original part from Pemzec Volvo in Vannes, as these pipes are reinforced for the job.
Here is the old perished pipe:
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And the spangly new one:
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I used new jubilee type clips instead of the old spring release ones just to be safe. Also when replacing these, it is a good idea to blow down the pipe into the servo to test if the one way valve is good. Tanks' is. Another one is to press lightly on the brake pedal whilst starting up after fitment. You should be able to feel the pedal rise slowly as the vacuum returns.

That's it for now folks. :D

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Re: 'Tank' A 'Rolling Resto' Bloggy (of sorts)

#39 Post by Paul240480 » Fri Jul 22, 2011 11:58 am

I have eventually got around to replacing the in-tank fuel pump............ only three years since it died :roll:
I wrote up the work again, for the Volvo forum, but thought I'd stick it onto my project thread here, for those who, like me enjoy seeing bits like this :D


Replacement of Intank Fuel Pump on Volvo 240.

As we know the intank fuel pump (on models equipped with one) often fails. Symptoms are usually an over noisey main fuel pump once fuel is down to say 1/3, as it struggles to lift the fuel from the tank. The intank pumps 'job' is to feed fuel up to the main pump.
Failures can be the in tank pump itself giving out or the small rubber pipe from the pump to the 'out pipe' perishes, so the pump just pushes fuel back into the tank. You should be able to hear the in tank pump either by get your ear down close to the tank cover in the boot, or by removing the filler cap and listening for the pump.
Fuses also are worth checking, of course.
If you suspect the pump to have stopped working, one 'trick' worth trying is to remove the tank cover & tap on the 'lid' of the sender unit, which houses the pump. Sometimes this is enough to get it going again, but is really putting off the inevitable.
Having said that, the cars will often soldier on with a dead pump in the tank. Mine has done so for three years now!
Not good practice as the main pump is over worked, can over heat and of course will wear rapidly. The 'trick' once diagnosed is to keep the tank filled once fuel gets to say, a little under ½ a tank.

So I have now replaced my in tank pump. A joint effort this one with the able help of Cumbrianmale. This is a good one, as it threw up some problems – as in it showed how corroded the stubs on the sender lid can be..... yes, pushing the return pipe back on, at the end of a job thought to have been well done saw said return pipe bend and split!
Luckily, we nipped down to the scrap yard and picked up a replacement sender unit & did the whole job all over again (LOL) and now all is good. A bonus is that the yard sender unit works, so I still have a fuel guage, woohoo!

Aftermarket pumps are said to vary in size somewhat from the Volvo ones so getting them to fit into the holder can be an issue, buy these at your own peril! I got mine from Rufe on here & it was about £80. I now have a working spare from the yard. The new one was fitted!

Other things you may wish to have ready to fit are:
New 'O' ring (Rubber seal) P/N 949276
New Lock Ring P/N 1235324

I decided to go for it without & see what mine were like. The rubber 'O' ring looked new & the lock ring cleaned up sufficiently (to my untrained eye). On the scrap yard one, the 'O' was very stiff, but lock ring looked better then my original.

Has yours got an intank pump? Well if you look at the lid of the sender unit under the plate in the boot. If it has three pipes coming out of it, outlet, return and a breather (will be blanked off with a black rubber cap) then yes. If you have two pipes coming out then no. I think this relates to k-jet equipped yes EFI equipped no. Diesal models no (D24) . For earlier models with carbs, I don't know but someone will reply to confirm either way...... and to correct this last paragraph if I am mistaken!

1) In saloons, remove the boot carpet & you should see a silver square shaped metal plate held in by two screws, with two wires coming from it (one black one grey). In Estates you need to remove the boot floor by undoing the 8 screws and lifting it out to reveal the plate.
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2) Unscrew the plate & slide it carefully back along the wires out of the way. Now you can see the top of the tank & the topp of the sender unit with its three pipes.
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You will no doubt see lots of crud & rust flakes on top of the tank and sender unit. Get a hoover and get as much of it out as you can. You don't want it dropping into the tank later. If needs be, tape a smaller diameter tube onto the hoover pipe pipe to really get in there.
Now this lid has probably not been removed in its 20+ years, so put some penetrating oil around the ring & leave it to do it's job. I left mine 3 or 4 days adding more oil daily. Maybe overkill, but it worked.
3) you can undo the wire at the block & then remove the spade ends from the block to allow the wires to pass out ready for removing the unit from the car.
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(Removing the block allows the wires to easily pass through the rubber grommit and the silver plate).
There is also an earth wire to the boot floor. Remove this & replace the screw for safe keeping.
4) Next is to remove the fuel pipes from the metal tubes on the sender unit lid. The outlet has a screwed clamp, the return a spring clip. The clip can be 'got' with a pair of thin nosed pliers, the clamp may come free with a screw driver, it may like mine need carefully cutting through with a junior hacksaw.
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5) Now the fuel pipes are out of the way, it is that time to remove the sender unit. Now one way is to get a bit of metal, brass I think is the 'spark free safest' and angle it into the ring & then hammer it to spin if free. The hole restricts you getting a good angle (leverage). Another method is to use a two-legged puller. Remove the threaded bit & then adjust it so that the two legs lock into to two of the 'gaps' in the ring. Hold it there. Then get a spanner (21mm or an adjustable) to fit over the pullers. Then use an adjustable spanner (We used two adjustables) to turn the first ti turn the pullers. Hope that makes sense?
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*Sorry* just realised my pics do not show the second spanner that is used to turn the whole set-up. Hope you follow....
We found it needed a few 'whacks' as per the first method to free it, then a progressive 'force' using the puller method to finally get it free.
6) Once the lock ring ring is free, you are ready to lift the sender unit out. Fiddly, as Volvo made the hole too small! You need to take your time, it will come out. First lift it until the pump is past the lip of the hole. Then you need to angle it to allow the float to pass. Take your time as it is eay to knock the float off, which will leave you 'fishing'. Once the float it through, you need to angle it further to get the 'sock' (a filter) through. Here it is on its way out.
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Once out you will have this.
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7) Now it is time to remove the dead pump from the sender unit and fit the new. This part is fairly obvious, just a case of working through it methodically. I will let the pics do the work. The sock/filter will clip off and clip back on again with a little persuasion.
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In words of the 'famous' manual, fitting the new pump is a reversal of this procedure lol.
8) Now we are nearly ready to re-fit. Before you do, you should clean up the lip of the hole where the unit sits. It will be full of crud. You don't want it falling into the tank either. So, get some cotton buds, dip them into grease & wipe it clean. The crud will stick to the grease & lift out.
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Leaving you with a shiny finish like this.
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9) Now it is time to drop in the sender unit with the new pump. Sock first, then the ball & then the pump. Again, take your time, it is fiddly, but it will go.
10) Clean up the ring if re-using, brake cleaner is ace. Put the 'O''ring in place, smear a bit of copper slip onto the mating surface of the lock ring & put it in place ready to be locked. Use the two-legged pullers arrangement to spin it tight.
11) Then refit the two pipes onto their respective tubes, we used a bit of wash-up liquid to slide them on. (be careful though, this is where my original return pipe split). Then nip up the clamps. I have used some jubilee style ones, these are not the reccommended ones for fuel lines apparently, the 'proper' type are like the one that will be on your 'outward' pipe.
12) Now it is a case of feeding the electrics back through the grommit & plate & re-fitting the spades into the block & pressing the block connectors together. Re-connect the earth wire.
13) Now it is time to re-connect the battery & fire her up. Hopefully you will hear the rewarding 'buzz' of the new in tank pump & will see no leaks (this is where we saw the return pipe weeping lol).
14) Once you are happy all is well, re-fit the silver plate/cover & the carpet/boot floor & tick another jobby off of your 'to do' list.
As ever, feel free to add any tips or advice you have if you have already tackled this one.
Thanks.

rich.
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Re: 'Tank' A 'Rolling Resto' Bloggy (of sorts)

#40 Post by rich. » Sun Jul 24, 2011 6:09 am

im about an hours drive from poiters... pop in next time you over, kettle is always on..

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