Zel's Fleet Blog...Rover, Renault, Peugeot, Trabant, Invacar & Sinclair C5

Post pictures and stories about your cars both present and past. Also post up "blogs" on your restoration projects - the more pictures the better! Note: blog-type threads often get few replies, but are often read by many members, and provide interest and motivation to other enthusiasts so don't be disappointed if you don't get many replies.
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Zelandeth
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Re: Zel's Fleet Blog...Jag, Citroens, Mercedes, Sinclair & AC Model 70

#841 Post by Zelandeth » Tue Feb 23, 2021 8:15 pm

Okay...so that ball does not live under the accelerator jet (which had been the conclusion I'd come to after studying the diagrams and what several other folks had suggested). With it in there it's not possible to get the jet to seat fully so it plainly lives elsewhere. Except of course now it's stuck in the hole so I'll need to remove the carb so I can extract it. The smallest magnet on a stick that I have is significantly larger than the hole the ball has been dropped into.

Isn't it fun when things don't match the diagrams?

Moving on from that, investigation of the non-functional hazard flasher warning light has proven somewhat successful.

The switchgear actually comes apart really easily...two screws out then everything just unplugs from the base. I was expecting this to be a lot more of an involved task. Many, many manufacturers could learn from this setup...

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The bulb in the switch was indeed blown, and replacing it has restored the illumination which comes on along with the headlights.

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However it still does nothing when the hazards are actually on which to me seems wrong. That's been filed under "stuff to investigate later."

Got about halfway through pulling the dash out before I ran out of time. Annoyingly, you have to pull apart the whole cowling below the steering column to access the bottom two retaining screws.

Then I'll need to stock up on lamps... didn't realise quite how depleted my stock was.

I did try replacing the one for the speedometer (as that is readily accessible from above) sadly this had no effect, so looks like there's a power supply (or grounding) issue on the panel itself somewhere. Sure that will be fun to trace...
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Current fleet: 73 AC Model-70. 75 Rover 3500. 84 Trabant 601S. 85 Sinclair C5. 88 Renault 25 Monaco. 06 Peugeot Partner 1.6HDi.

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Re: Zel's Fleet Blog...Jag, Citroens, Mercedes, Sinclair & AC Model 70

#842 Post by gazza82 » Wed Feb 24, 2021 2:03 pm

Small piece of rubber tubing to grab the ball bearing or even using human suction? I'd even try a small blob of blutak on a small screwdriver or similar ..
"If you're driving on the edge ... you're leaving too much room!"

Retirement Project: '59 Austin A35 2-door with 1330cc Midget engine and many upgrades
Said goodbye: got '98 Alfa Romeo 156 2.0 TSpark to 210K miles before tin worm struck

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Re: Zel's Fleet Blog...Jag, Citroens, Mercedes, Sinclair & AC Model 70

#843 Post by Dick » Wed Feb 24, 2021 8:34 pm

Magnet and a screw driver? Id be careful trying to suck the ballbearing out with a tube as if you're anything likeas clumsy as me you will end up swallowing it..
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Re: Zel's Fleet Blog...Jag, Citroens, Mercedes, Sinclair & AC Model 70

#844 Post by Zelandeth » Thu Feb 25, 2021 12:49 am

To be fair I probably could get it out. There's something physically wrong with the accelerator pump so I need to pull that off to try to figure out what's up with it. As that's mounted on the rear of the carb it'll need to come off for access. So if I've got to take it off anyway I may as well just tip it upside down then I figure.
My website - aka. My *other* waste of time
Current fleet: 73 AC Model-70. 75 Rover 3500. 84 Trabant 601S. 85 Sinclair C5. 88 Renault 25 Monaco. 06 Peugeot Partner 1.6HDi.

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Re: Zel's Fleet Blog...Jag, Citroens, Mercedes, Sinclair & AC Model 70

#845 Post by Zelandeth » Fri Feb 26, 2021 12:36 am

Ran out of time and mental energy before finishing an update yesterday, so here's yesterday and today bundled into one.

Didn't have much time to dedicate to the work on the Beige Wonder, but when the new fuel pump arrived almost perfectly in sync with me getting back from running several errands I decided to take a few minutes out to at least get that fitted.

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That took a little under seven minutes from setting foot outside the front door to having the vehicle running.

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Knowing these cars I'm sure I will pay a heavy price for that going so smoothly later on at some point...

Today's main task was to have a look at the carb to see if we could figure out what was up with the accelerator pump (and to retrieve the little ball and hopefully figure out where it's meant to be).

Ten minutes and the carb was off.

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The correct home for the mystery ball bearing has been found, there should be one at the end of a spring on the choke mechanism...there's a distinct lack of ball on the end of the spring.

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That has now been reinstated in the correct place.

It didn't take long to spot what was wrong with the accelerator pump..This is what was facing me when I took the pump cover plate off.

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That spring should be pushing the diaphragm out (so up in the photo, the carb is sitting on its side). It was never going to work like that! I think we've all been there at some point haven't we? Especially when you're not used to playing with carburettors. If you're not able to get everything done in one sitting it's so easy to wind up making mistakes like that, especially if you don't have a nice clear diagram in front of you.

Sadly when reassembled it still didn't work. It just pulls a vacuum - there's a hard blockage between the float bowl and the pump cavity it seems. No amount of blasting with carb cleaner or compressed air will seem to shift it. I guess I'll try giving it an overnight soak and a couple of hour run in the ultrasonic cleaner...but I'm not holding my breath.

For now I've put everything back together while I consider my options.

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At least this keeps the car mobile and makes running other tests and such easier. If I can't clear it I may just need to drive around the lack of an accelerator jet (which I've done before...the Lada didn't have one until I did the injection conversion) initially. Once the car is driving and (hopefully!) has an MOT, it might be easier to justify splashing out on a new carb for it. I still don't really have any idea if she will end up being a long term fleet member or not yet...Though it wouldn't surprise me. The driving position is absolutely spot on for me, which is something I often struggle with...and I don't know. Just the moment I sat in it for the first time it was kind of like with the Saabs...just felt somehow "right" for me. Though I do keep telling myself I have two cars too many already! Time will tell.

This evening I decided it was time to do something about this thing.

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Which I still has to be one of the most brilliant yet bonkers instrument panel designs out there - Though it doesn't quite make it to the same level as the madness of the one in the GSA. I'll be really curious to see how it works in the real world. However it needs to light up to get the full effect...and as the car arrived none of the illumination worked at all and at least half the warning lights were also on the blink.

Immediately finding evidence of prior repair work to the flex-PCB doesn't fill me with confidence that this is going to be an easy one.

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I found a grand total one one blown bulb...in the glow plug light so I'm guessing that's been swapped from somewhere else at some point. However what I did find that the most widespread case of scratchy, oxidised contacts I think I've ever come across in one device. After cleaning a dozen or so slide contacts and then what felt like somewhere around five thousand lamp holders...

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I had no idea that the little diagram of the car and the Citroen name/logo were illuminated!

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Obviously it goes without saying that it will need to be completely dismantled at some point to be properly cleaned. That will probably be the best part of a full day's worth of work though so is very much on the "once she has an MOT" list.

It's a shame that in quite a few places on the left hand cluster the mask has failed. You can see the light from the backlight bleeding through.

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When I have it apart for cleaning I reckon some (very) careful application of black paint to the back of the filter gel will be the way to go to sort that out. There is a similar issue on a couple of the main warning lights on the right too - but it's far less obvious and unless you were actively looking for it you'd not see it. Plus none of those lights should be on while you're driving anyway - whereas the actual panel backlighting is on whenever the ignition is unless I'm mistaken.

Sadly back in the car...no backlighting. So I'll need to do some further digging to see if we've got a missing supply or if there's just problems with the harness connectors. The fuel gauge I *think* gets its feed from one pin over from the panel lighting too...so given that doesn't work that could well be a clue.

We have victory in other areas though. All the lights which the handbook says should now light when the test button is pressed - we were missing the overheat warning light before.

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The lighting cluster is now fully functional, the side light, main beam and rear fog light indicators were missing before.

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You can see what I was saying about light showing through the areas which should be black. Being a humble RE spec car she doesn't have anything in the door/bonnet/boot open locations.

I was intrigued to find that there are two temperature lights - an amber one which is the overheat warning, but also a blue one (not used by the looks of it), which I assume is an indicator on some models/in some markets to show you that the engine is still cold. First car I ever saw that on was in 2010...never realised Citroen had done it back this far.

When I went out to get my errands done yesterday I decided for no reason other than "because I can" to take the Invacar out. No real opportunity for scenic photos when you're driving point-to-point for specific tasks.

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As I've been handed back the little Akaso action camera (which had been drafted into use as a webcam for the last few months for home working) I did a couple of test recordings as I really want to figure out a decent way to record video in this car - my phone is basically useless as the optical image stabilisation just can't keep up and you end up with footage that is completely useless thanks to the amount of camera shake. I know from prior experience that the little Akaso handles this issue far better. The biggest drawback it does have though is that the onboard microphone is absolutely dire. Well it's actually passable...but the manufacturer for some reason decided not to implement any form of gain control. So as soon as I go anywhere beyond about 2/3rds on the throttle the induction noise just results in diabolical levels of clipping. I do plan to (once we're out of lockdown) do a couple of driving videos that I'll actually post as public videos on my YouTube channel, when I take those I'll use a separate audio recorder and just splice the two together in the editing phase. Just a shame that the Akaso doesn't have any ability to use an external mic.

So these really were only intended as camera tests, so I didn't put too much time into framing or anything. Also I'm still 20 miles away from finishing the break in period for the new CVT belt - meaning that I currently have to obey a 50mph speed limit. That is far more difficult in this car than you'd expect.

First one was done with the camera attached to the window on the offside door just behind my shoulder. This gives the best view of how you actually drive one of these cars, but has quite a bit of shake to it because the doors do wobble around a bit when in motion.

YouTube Link Part 1

The second was done with the camera attached to the windscreen in more of a conventional dash cam type way. This gives a far, far more stable picture - but misses much more of the driving. Probably the best solution would be what I did on one of my first test runs where I attached the camera to the rear windscreen. I wasn't doing that yesterday though as it involves a lot of clambering around backwards and forwards to get the framing right. I didn't want passers by yesterday thinking I was out to record video, whereas the reality was that I was just setting the camera running while I was already out and about picking things up for people.

YouTube Link Part 2

Again...apologies for the audio.

Hopefully if you compare that to some of the earlier videos of TPA being out and about you can see how much happier she is now. The whole driving experience now is actually pleasant.
My website - aka. My *other* waste of time
Current fleet: 73 AC Model-70. 75 Rover 3500. 84 Trabant 601S. 85 Sinclair C5. 88 Renault 25 Monaco. 06 Peugeot Partner 1.6HDi.

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Re: Zel's Fleet Blog...Jag, Citroens, Mercedes, Sinclair & AC Model 70

#846 Post by Zelandeth » Sat Feb 27, 2021 11:57 pm

Few bits and pieces done today. First up was seeing if I could figure out what was up with the dash lighting on the BX.

The only lighting inside which is tied to the headlights is in the rear window heater and hazard light switches, the rest all comes on with the ignition. The only light I found that was working was the one in the glove box - but investigation of the schematics shows that it's on a different circuit. The rest should all run through a rheostat - missing on mine. I'd originally assumed just being basically a base spec car it just didn't have the rheostat...however I fully expected the wiring to be there just with a link in its place. Kind of expected they would have fitted a blanking plug too rather than just leaving a hole in the lower steering cowl.

Peering down inside the cowling I could see this.

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Hmm...Green and green with a purple trace. Let's consult the schematics.

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Would you look at that...the dash lighting rheostat (number 50 in the diagram) has that colour of wiring.

Quick rummage around in my box of bits of Xantia turned up this.

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Thanks to PSA being big fans of not changing parts bin items for decades this has exactly the same connector and slotted perfectly into place. Did this fix the dash lighting?

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That's a yes.

Thankfully the rest all seem to still work too.

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Remembered seeing this floating around in the boxes in the boot...

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Which today I realised I had spotted the home for - it's the trim which should go between the ignition barrel and the cowling.

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Doesn't that look better?

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Speaking of looking better, treating the front bumper has made a heck of a difference!

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Work has started on the polishing.

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As I had kind of expected, the metal badge on the boot lid fell off pretty much as soon as I touched it. Leaving a horrible mess behind it.

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Which required the best part of an hour carefully picking away at it to clean up. It has left a mark but you wouldn't notice it if you weren't looking for it.

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I'll keep it with the car obviously.

I'm torn about the dealer decals...They're part of the car's story, which makes me inclined to leave them be. However they're in quite poor condition, and the cleanliness of the design on the BX really makes them stick out...so I'm tending towards removing them. If they weren't already flaking off I'd probably just leave them be.

We're getting there, though it's time consuming as polishing a car always is. I'd hoped to get most of the doors done but only got the tailgate and one rear quarter done because of the amount of time dealing with that badge lost me.

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Looking a lot better already I think though, we're getting there.

Does anyone know how the little spoiler is attached? If removing it isn't a huge pain it would make repainting it far less of a faff (it should be satin black, but it's worn away badly like the paint on the door tops has).

I noticed this afternoon that despite 38 years and 150K miles the protective film is still on the metallic label with the gearchange pattern on it.

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Once it was dark this meant I could finally get a dash at night photo.

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...At which point I immediately news that the light behind the fuel gauge has gone out again. That's going on the "deal with later" list.

Does look the part though.

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It's interesting to see that Citroen apparently got in there a couple of decades early with the whole gentle general background night time cabin lighting. I never saw this on other cars until around 2000 (think it was a Skoda Superb).

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With a bit of luck I might get the polish and wax finished tomorrow.
My website - aka. My *other* waste of time
Current fleet: 73 AC Model-70. 75 Rover 3500. 84 Trabant 601S. 85 Sinclair C5. 88 Renault 25 Monaco. 06 Peugeot Partner 1.6HDi.

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Re: Zel's Fleet Blog...Jag, Citroens, Mercedes, Sinclair & AC Model 70

#847 Post by Zelandeth » Mon Mar 01, 2021 11:20 pm

Apparently I missed yesterday's update here, so have two updates rolled into one.

-- -- --

Reasonably productive day today. Main task was to hit the BX (not literally) with the polish and wax.

I'd been hovering over whether to remove the dealer decals for a while, though as they were in pretty poor condition was leaning towards removing them...Especially as the BX being such a clean design doesn't suit them.

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Decision was made far easier however when they started to disintegrate pretty much as soon as I started polishing around them...Off they come then!

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Also giving me a tiny glimpse of the actual colour of the bonnet.

A couple of hours of elbow grease ensued...The difference was immediately obvious!

Can you spot where I'd got to?

YouTube Link (0:08)

The weather today was pretty much perfect for it. The effort was very much worth it I think...The results speak for themselves really.

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The bonnet and roof still have a bit of a haze to them so could probably do with going over again, but overall I think she's looking a huge amount more presentable. She looks far better for having lost the random stickers and badge from the bootlid and bonnet I think.

I'm waiting on some proper 3M double sided foam tape so I can redo all the rubbing strips (two are coming away in addition to the two missing on the front wings), which will be a good opportunity to deal with the ingrained grime right next to them I just couldn't get to today. The bootlid badges look to be metal rather than plastic, so removing to clean behind them shouldn't be a problem.

Getting the missing bit of rubbing strip back on the front wings will help a lot I think as your eye is drawn to the gap there immediately I find.


Once I was satisfied with my progress there I decided to finish up wiring in the new instruments in TPA. This took longer than it really should have mostly thanks to poor process planning on my part but we got nearly there in the end, and the voltmeter now works. I just need to hook up the permanent live for the clock at the battery end and tidy up my wiring a bit.

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What ended up taking the longest was tying into the existing dash lighting circuit and sorting out the grounds - as we had a mish-mash between the gauges of common grounds for the gauge and lighting, grounded through the case and totally separate connections - and I was trying to keep the spaghetti to a minimum. Got there though.

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Really need to lose that horrible blue filter on the speedometer illumination...Will probably try to match it to the fuel gauge (as the filter on that is built into the gauge). Don't mind the main instruments being different to the lower set...but the mismatch between instruments actually grouped together bugs me.

Finishing off the clock wiring tomorrow should only be a ten minute job. Only took a while because I've got a battery isolator switch fitted so need a dedicated live for it run all the way back to the battery itself (via a 2A fuse of course, right at the battery side). That adds a lot of extra work as the wiring all has to run underneath the car. Nice to be still getting things ticked off though.

Really happy with how the BX is looking now. I was right that the colour was really going to look the part once it had a good shine to it, really does suit the car I think - even though I'd never have thought to choose beige at the showroom, I do like it.

-- -- --

Resting battery voltage looks a bit healthier when I've not been faffing about with the headlights for half an hour.

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The clock now works too.

I keep forgetting how well this thing picks up when you've got a decently long stretch of road on the level. Think the folks in the convertible Golf were slightly baffled when I came hurtling past them on the dual carriageway earlier.

Unfortunately one of my old gremlins resurfaced later in the day when the throttle cable came away from the retainer in the twist grip. I initially thought it had snapped, but it's just pulled out. That's the third time this has happened.

Getting the rest of the way home required a little ingenuity.

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Really wasn't a problem, though my hand was getting really tired by the time I got home - there's a wicked strong return spring on that cable!

Think it's time to get a new twist grip ordered that doesn't rely on an odd sized mounting peg that I have to improvise. Be nice to get one that's not just hard plastic anyway as it gets horrible and sweaty after half an hour or so.
My website - aka. My *other* waste of time
Current fleet: 73 AC Model-70. 75 Rover 3500. 84 Trabant 601S. 85 Sinclair C5. 88 Renault 25 Monaco. 06 Peugeot Partner 1.6HDi.

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Re: Zel's Fleet Blog...Jag, Citroens, Mercedes, Sinclair & AC Model 70

#848 Post by Zelandeth » Wed Mar 03, 2021 9:26 pm

Well doesn't that sound happier?

YouTube Link (0:17)

YouTube Link (0:27)

I'd known something was way off with the carb setup from square one given that the idle speed was very high and I could tell with my nose from fifty feet away that she was running stinking rich. I decided to actually investigate that this afternoon and it didn't take long to work it out. The idle mixture screw was wound all the way in and firmly seated...So the carb idle circuit was doing precisely nothing. The only reason the car was idling at all was because the idle speed screw had been wound so far open that the throttle was held about 10% open and she was actually running from the main jet rather than the idle system.

Winding that open a couple of turns and backing off the idle speed adjustment (as that immediately shot up to about 3500rpm once I started to open the idle circuit up) soon got things much closer to where they're meant to be. I'll hook the CO meter to get it vaguely close to the book value when the rain stops. Now she's not running horrendously rich I'm glad to report that the intermittent but frequent miss at idle has vanished as well. Not expecting to get it absolutely perfect as I've no idea how stale a lot of the fuel in the tank is, but I don't reckon things are a million miles off now.

The even bigger positive of this than a smooth idle though is that apparently backing that adjustment screw out has resolved the issue I had with the accelerator pump being blocked off - that's now working properly it looks like.

Just wish the rain had held off for another hour or two.

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Particularly annoying as the oil filter I'd been waiting for arrived this morning, so I really wanted to get the oil and filter changed today. Guess that's a job for later in the week now.

Nevertheless, it did give me an opportunity to get some gratuitous water beading photos on the freshly waxed paintwork...Imagine it's been a few years since this happened!

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Feels like having the carb largely co-operating is quite a big step towards the car being actually drivable now. Rear spheres will be the next big step.
My website - aka. My *other* waste of time
Current fleet: 73 AC Model-70. 75 Rover 3500. 84 Trabant 601S. 85 Sinclair C5. 88 Renault 25 Monaco. 06 Peugeot Partner 1.6HDi.

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Re: Zel's Fleet Blog...Jag, Citroens, Mercedes, Sinclair & AC Model 70

#849 Post by Zelandeth » Thu Mar 04, 2021 10:47 pm

Package arrived this morning for TPA.

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Installation was pretty straightforward...Though I still had to fabricate a cable end. I think I just need to go to Speedy Cables or similar and just order a proper cable. The issue seems to be that (unsurprisingly) the cable has a standard motorcycle type barrel connector at the handlebar end...but finding off the shelf motorbike throttle cables more than a couple of metres long is tricky - and this needs to be a touch over five metres long because of the routing. As it is having trimmed away the frayed bit of cable I'm now down to literally millimetres to spare, and it's a bit frilly at the handlebar end so will likely fail again in the not too distant future.

Nevertheless, it does mean that I've now got matching grips on the handlebars which looks SO much better.

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The throttle action is also way better...It always felt very much as though it wasn't attached to anything before, so you were never quite sure how much throttle you were applying - and I'm not 100% certain that I was ever actually getting full throttle as the old twist grip was distorted and binding up at several points in its travel. New one is all metal so should hopefully fare better.

New grips are a good deal chunkier than the old ones which I think will be a good thing.

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Will have to wait for a test drive to be certain, but just sitting in the garage the bars felt a lot more comfortable to hold.
My website - aka. My *other* waste of time
Current fleet: 73 AC Model-70. 75 Rover 3500. 84 Trabant 601S. 85 Sinclair C5. 88 Renault 25 Monaco. 06 Peugeot Partner 1.6HDi.

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Re: Zel's Fleet Blog...Jag, Citroens, Mercedes, Sinclair & AC Model 70

#850 Post by Zelandeth » Sat Mar 06, 2021 3:20 am

Nothing much today, mainly just got an oil & filter change done on the BX. No more horrible rusty oil filter.

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That wasn't the worst filter to get off I've dealt with, but it wasn't far off. I had to get the chain wrench and breaker bar involved.

Pulled out just over seven litres of oil, just under six went back in.

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The discoloration on the dipstick shows where the level has been sitting for quite a while, a good inch above max.

Getting the oil filler cap off was a task in itself - get the impression it's not been off in a while, and it's just a friction fit.

Being the coolest point of the engine doesn't surprise me we've got quite a bit of condensation here.

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If it's still looking like that after an hour's blat up the A5 or M1 then I'll look more closely, but there doesn't seem to be any pressurisation of the coolant, it looks spotlessly clean and she idles smoothly so reckon it is just old fashioned condensation. Remember this car was last in MOT in 2011...so she's not had a proper run in forever.

I did spot a couple of electrical things needing immediate attention while I was waiting for the oil to drain. Firstly this Scotchlok on one of the alternator lines.

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Note the stub of brown wire...which sits exactly as close to this hydraulic line as it looks like.

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Yeah...that's getting soldered and covered with heatshrink ASAP.

I originally thought this was a drain line for some reason...

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It appears to vanish down through the bulkhead grommet towards the fuse box. I'll investigate further tomorrow... that's going to be getting removed at the first opportunity.

I can also confirm now that being in the humble RE trim level it doesn't look like this car has an oil level sensor (not sure if the wiring is there, hence if it could be retrofitted easily), unlike the higher trim levels.

On the subject of the instrumentation, the fuel gauge illumination appears to have heard me thinking about it and has resurrected itself.

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Have to admit that while I was kind of scratching my head about whether taking on this car when she first arrived was a good idea, I'm really, really looking forward to driving it now.
My website - aka. My *other* waste of time
Current fleet: 73 AC Model-70. 75 Rover 3500. 84 Trabant 601S. 85 Sinclair C5. 88 Renault 25 Monaco. 06 Peugeot Partner 1.6HDi.

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