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Re: Series 3 Landie FFR

Posted: Tue Apr 26, 2016 12:59 pm
by kstrutt1
Nothing! they are in my way but it seems a shame to throw them out.

Re: Series 3 Landie FFR

Posted: Tue Apr 26, 2016 11:24 pm
by RangerNeil
PM sent - many thanks :D

Re: Series 3 Landie FFR

Posted: Wed Apr 27, 2016 8:16 pm
by SirTainleyBarking
kstrutt1 wrote:Nothing! they are in my way but it seems a shame to throw them out.
And that is the same reason that my garage is full of assorted random crap

Re: Series 3 Landie FFR

Posted: Thu Apr 28, 2016 12:06 am
by RangerNeil
SirTainleyBarking wrote:
kstrutt1 wrote:Nothing! they are in my way but it seems a shame to throw them out.
And that is the same reason that my garage is full of assorted random crap
Same here!! :D :D

Re: Series 3 Landie FFR

Posted: Fri Apr 29, 2016 12:09 am
by RangerNeil
Felt like screaming today..... Went through the ISPL the other day and ordered the bolts to hold the heater fan in - according to the ISPL they are 1/4" UNF. Packet arrived from Namrick this morning so out I go to git the fan in - only to find the damned bolts are too big a dia!!
Looking at the captive nuts on the mounting flanges they bolts are more like 3/16" UNF.
This seems to be another one of those jobs that is cursed from day 1 :( :(

Re: Series 3 Landie FFR

Posted: Sat Jul 30, 2016 9:44 pm
by RangerNeil
Heater and fan now fitted and working. Whilst the dash was out I took the opportunity to run a power feed to the panel lights switch and fit 24v LED's to tall the panel light bulbs so for the first time since I've owned her I had working panel lights. I also took the opportunity to replace the bezels and glass in both the speedo and instrument cluster. However this now has given me a problem in that the fuel gauge now read full all the time - even when it;s bone dry and the sender is just swinging in the tank. No voltage regulators on a 24v so it;s not that. I can't help but think that its an earthing issue resulting from taking the dash apart.
After the UAZ explosively failed to make the W&PR show I had to dig the Sankey trailer out of the bush that was growing around it and load that up with the kit that was in the UAZ. Halfway down the M20 (I think I am jinxed on this road) the red brake warning light came on with a resultant drop in braking efficiency. Got me to the show OK and I checked all 4 wheel, no sign of fluid leakage so I kept the reservoir topped up and on the return home replaced the master cylinder. Now waiting to be bled as sadly it's not a 1-man job.
On leaving the show another problem manifested itself - no lights. Fuses were checked and were all intact so it was a case of driving home on hand signals. Together with the reduced braking ability this made life rather interesting!! On arrival home investigation revealed the I/R switch has seemingly reversed function - normally the I/R circuits need to be "Off" for the lights to work - at the moment it needs to be "On" Another weird gremlin to sort out - I hate auto-electrics!! :cry:

Re: Series 3 Landie FFR

Posted: Sun Jul 31, 2016 8:54 pm
by RangerNeil
We had sunshine again today so I had another go. Dash is in pieces again - 3rd time in as many months.
Good news is the lights are now working as they should with the I/R switch in the "Off" position.

Not so good news is it looks like the problems is the switch at fault. As I flicked it on and off I heard the relay click then at one point as I moved from "off" towards "on" the relay clicked before the switch clicked over. So the lights now work as normal. I have a feeling the problem will resurface sometime in the future so I will replace the switch when it does.

Bad news is the fuel gauge is still FUBAR. I tried disconnecting the feed to the fuel tap switches so in theory the circuit was dead and the gauge should not react at all when the ignition was turned on. So much for theory - the gauge still jumped to full. so something is earthing out on the gauge. Having removed the gauge from the cluster there was the expected no reaction. I think that, as much it seems unlikely the fuel gauge that was brand new OEM a couple of years ago is now faulty. :( Next problem then is going to be finding a replacement that won't cost an arm and a leg. Prices on the web seem to vary between £49 and £222!!! :shock:

Re: Series 3 Landie FFR

Posted: Wed Aug 03, 2016 11:08 pm
by RangerNeil
Finally got some one in to help with the brake bleeding today - and the first wheel i went to (N/S/R) now shows signs of a blown cylinder. Wasn't worth trying to bleed the system with that so an axle set of new cylinders and shoes have been ordered from Paddocks together with a replacement fuel gauge from Blanchards. Now to wait for the deliveries.

Re: Series 3 Landie FFR

Posted: Wed Sep 07, 2016 7:00 pm
by RangerNeil
Feeling rather pleased right now. Got back early hours of Sunday morning after completing a 400 mile round trip to Fort van Bornem in Belgium over the weekend - was there for a 2 day Living History event. The Landie behaved itself there and back - I did take out single trip Euro breakdown and recovery cover for a classic but did not need it. Only issues I had the entire trip were:
  • * The driver side stop /tail light developed a fault whereby only the sidelight filament would light up no matter whether it was sidelights or brake lights on. I think a new light assembly might be required.
    * If I hit the dizzy height of 50 mph or more I started getting coolant loss from the rad cap. Not sure what was wrong there but I lost about 1.5 litres of coolant over the entire trip each way.
Image

Image

Cruising at around 45 mph wasn't a problem - I was in no rush and it was good practice for when the Militant takes to the road :) :)

Re: Series 3 Landie FFR

Posted: Sat Sep 10, 2016 9:09 pm
by SirTainleyBarking
Check the lip of the filler neck is 100% flat and true.
On mine, the brass seems a little more flexible than it should be and needed bending back so it sealed against the cap properly.
Also is it a 10 or a 15lb cap?
the 10lb cap works well on mine at higher speeds, but yours may need a bit more downforce