Going East - getting a UAZ 469 back on the road

[Luxobarge]

Good progress, thanks for posting.

Just one thing - why are you spraying these areas with WD40?

[rich.]

this is what wiki said about wd40
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/WD-40
& company info
http://wd40.com/cool-stuff/myths-legends-fun-facts

[JPB]

WD40 is fantastic for getting chewing gum out of clothes but if I wanted to loosen some stuck thread, I'd tend to use penetrating oil or better yet; sorcery.

[rich.]

i use whatever is to hand... both seem to work for me

[RangerNeil]

i use whatever is to hand... both seem to work for me

Exactly why I used it - I had a can of WD to hand, but no penetrating oil.

[RangerNeil]

First off - good news at last! I got a nice new V5 in the post this morning from DVLA. Historic tax class and early build date. Just need to talk to the insurers on Monday to ge the reg num changed on the policy and the new number plates made up and we will be road ready.

Now back to the realities Finally managed to get the sender on the drivers side fuel tank out today - the remaining screws had to be removed in small increments with mole grips as the cross-heads were badly screwed up. I am going to have to order new screws I think as I do not think these can be reused. Screw size looks to be M5 x 12mm.
Once the sender weas in - it still read half a tank even though the tanks was almost empty. If you look at the old and new senders the float is on the other side on the new one so I need to see if it might be catching?

Old sender


New sender


When the old one came out it looked to be covered in rust which - in a fuel tank - is highly worrying. But I lowered a small LED torch in through the sender hole and had a look - the tank internals looked to be clean so I can only assume the rust came from the old sender which was stuck solid when it came out



Next will be to lower the passenger sid e tank so that I can get the mole grips on the loose captive nut and undo the final bolt from the access plate. The tank can then be ligted back into place and refitted and the business with the sender repeated.

What I did notice today was the seat frame on the drivers side - seems a wee bit broken!!!

[RangerNeil]

My daughter had a dressage contest today so I only had a short time to work before we had to load the dogs in the cars and go watch her compete (she placed 5th!) So I started off by placing a trolley jack under the passenger tank then going to undo the retaining bolts on the straps. There ended plan "A" as they were seized solid. Been soaked in penetrating oil for a couple of days but nothing had worked.
So I started on plan "B" - clamped a pair of mole grips on the loose bolt head, poistioned them so the body stopped any movement and drilled down through the centre of the bolt head with a 5mm drill. That got the had popped off, the remains dropped free underneath ans thus the access panel was free. Then I found the screws holding the sender in this side were well and truly f*cked - way worse than on the other side and an ordinary crosshead screw driver wouldn't move them. Some heavy swearing, sweating and cursing got one partially free - it rotated about 1 turn then jammed again. So in deperation I used an cordless drill in screwe driver mode and noticed that in a low torque setting the vibration of the drill skipping antucally was rotating the screw... Tried it again on another nand it worked there from solid. Murphys law being as active as ever it worked on all but one of them. That one I had to drill down through the head till it popped off and then I could remove the sender. As per the other side - it was rusted solid. That left me with the remain of the screw in the threaded hole. So I drilled down through the remains using a 4 mm drill and tried to use an eZ-Out. That didn't work as I felt there was more chance of that snapping before the seized screw moved so I then used a 4.5 mm drill That was enough and the remains were removed with minimal - if any - damage to the threads. The hole was sealed with duct tape as I now need to order new screws for both sides.





If the weather holds for tomtorrow I will try and get the starter out before returning to the Landrover - once it is out the UAZ cannot be progressed further till the new screws and the replacment starter arrive.

[JPB]

On the float that points the wrong way: Can the new float be popped out of its clip and popped back in the other way round, so creating a replica of the old float that came out of the tank?
That would have been assembled by clipping the float into the wire loop initially and it should stand being popped out and back in without damage.

[RangerNeil]

On the float that points the wrong way: Can the new float be popped out of its clip and popped back in the other way round, so creating a replica of the old float that came out of the tank?
That would have been assembled by clipping the float into the wire loop initially and it should stand being popped out and back in without damage.

Yes, just tried it on the passnger side one that was stiing beside me and it can be done!

[JPB]