Possible donor for yours?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rover-213-spa ... 3ce7b2d3df
An Rover. Vitesse.
Re: An Rover. Vitesse.
Probably just as bad Mal looking at pics.
I think I'm going to try and flog on as is, failing that, then it may end up a breaker, I'd even swap it for something solid, but needed paint or mechanical work,
I was aware it may need a patch or 2, something a friend would happily sort for me, but after digging, it's considerably more than just a patch or two, and something it's a bit unfair to lumber a mate with, there's much more than just a couple of hours work involved. It wouldn't be too bad if I could weld, or indeed owned a mig welder, but funds aren't there currently to even be able to grab a used one. There's a few more in depth pics on facebook via AROnline.
On the other hand, the rear seat base fits nicely in the Dolomite, the back rest will need some fettling as its around 2" too wide at the top. A thick metal bar stops it from squashing up, so I don't think it'd be too hard to get the leather to fit the Dolomite if I do go the breaking route.
I think I'm going to try and flog on as is, failing that, then it may end up a breaker, I'd even swap it for something solid, but needed paint or mechanical work,
I was aware it may need a patch or 2, something a friend would happily sort for me, but after digging, it's considerably more than just a patch or two, and something it's a bit unfair to lumber a mate with, there's much more than just a couple of hours work involved. It wouldn't be too bad if I could weld, or indeed owned a mig welder, but funds aren't there currently to even be able to grab a used one. There's a few more in depth pics on facebook via AROnline.
On the other hand, the rear seat base fits nicely in the Dolomite, the back rest will need some fettling as its around 2" too wide at the top. A thick metal bar stops it from squashing up, so I don't think it'd be too hard to get the leather to fit the Dolomite if I do go the breaking route.
Re: An Rover. Vitesse.
It's rotted through on the bulkhead to wheelarch floor pan join, pretty much up the entire section on the drivers side, so I think this one is going to be parted out. Sadly the world has lost another 216 Vitesse, but it would need a total strip down to rectify, and even then it would take some skill to rebuild the whole inner area too.
So, who wants some nice S series injection bits???
So, who wants some nice S series injection bits???
Re: An Rover. Vitesse.
I suppose the question is, how much do you want a 216?
My weldathon from last year was all done while I was out of work (between contracts) so I had more or less no money available to spend. The only cost was welding wire and steel as I use a gasless mig. If you have a friend that would have done some small patches for you, would he be prepared to show you how to do it yourself and let you use his kit for material cost?
When you aren't paying for a garage's labour, if you want the car it is worth fixing.
My weldathon from last year was all done while I was out of work (between contracts) so I had more or less no money available to spend. The only cost was welding wire and steel as I use a gasless mig. If you have a friend that would have done some small patches for you, would he be prepared to show you how to do it yourself and let you use his kit for material cost?
When you aren't paying for a garage's labour, if you want the car it is worth fixing.
Understeer: when you hit the wall with the front of the car.
Oversteer: when you hit the wall with the back of the car.
Horsepower: how fast you hit the wall.
Torque: how far you take the wall with you.
Oversteer: when you hit the wall with the back of the car.
Horsepower: how fast you hit the wall.
Torque: how far you take the wall with you.
Re: An Rover. Vitesse.
I've always wanted a Vitesse, but sadly the SD3 has a propensity to rust, even worse than a RR! Alas, I don't think this one is going to be THE one.
I always have a dislike of using other peoples expensive equipment, if it buggers up in my care for whatever reason, I'll feel obliged to replace it. I have an old arc welder here, but, well, it's arc and it's that old and been languishing in the father in laws damp shed for many years, it's liable to electrocute me!
I think current plan to fit the leather into the Dolomite, and possibly the electric windows, and if I'm lucky a few other bits, and the stuff I don't want or need can be sold on to keep others on the road.
One day I'll own one that isn't rusty (it's how my 2nd died too).
I always have a dislike of using other peoples expensive equipment, if it buggers up in my care for whatever reason, I'll feel obliged to replace it. I have an old arc welder here, but, well, it's arc and it's that old and been languishing in the father in laws damp shed for many years, it's liable to electrocute me!
I think current plan to fit the leather into the Dolomite, and possibly the electric windows, and if I'm lucky a few other bits, and the stuff I don't want or need can be sold on to keep others on the road.
One day I'll own one that isn't rusty (it's how my 2nd died too).
Re: An Rover. Vitesse.
Have you had a snoot on the bay / gumtree to see if you can find a MIG locally? 100 amps should be more than adequate, Clarke gasless has been fine for me even on exposed bodywork if you don't mind a bit of dressing to tidy up spatter.
A quick look and I have found a couple of 130 amp ones available for less than £100 close to me.
I hate sending things to the yard but if it is beyond all hope then it's better to get some money back for it than have it sitting on your drive getting slowly worse until the council make you clear it as an eyesore.
A quick look and I have found a couple of 130 amp ones available for less than £100 close to me.
I hate sending things to the yard but if it is beyond all hope then it's better to get some money back for it than have it sitting on your drive getting slowly worse until the council make you clear it as an eyesore.
Understeer: when you hit the wall with the front of the car.
Oversteer: when you hit the wall with the back of the car.
Horsepower: how fast you hit the wall.
Torque: how far you take the wall with you.
Oversteer: when you hit the wall with the back of the car.
Horsepower: how fast you hit the wall.
Torque: how far you take the wall with you.
Re: An Rover. Vitesse.
All the local ones seem to be £100+
I didn't want to take on a full resto after doing the Dolly last year, it was just supposed to be a quick do it up as you went along job, as it was supposed to have been all welded up a couple of years back, but it would appear they missed quite a few spots. The odd patch wasn't a problem, but this would need a total strip down, hours spent replacing rotten metal, and then yet another full respray, plus it would have turfed the Dolomite out the garage, so it would have sulked
I've had a play with seats and a few bits this afternoon, and I may have a plan forming
Rear base is spot on size wise, needs some fettling around trans tunnel
although the back rest is a bit too wide at the top.
There's a metal bar that runs across the top, along with some rods up the side, so I reckon with some careful cutting, the top at each end could be moved in an inch or so to allow it to fit, it currently won't squish up as the bars stop it.
Fronts are a great fit size wise, the Dolomite runners will bolt to the base of the Rover seat, then it will just need appropriate holes drilling in the floor, and them bolting in with some load spreading washers. In two minds whether to change it all for black and grey, all black, or just dye the seats brown. But as an idea.
If I can get the electric windows to fit in the doors too, then I have the perfect set up for the switches. An old DIN sized pocket is a perfect fit between console and dashtray, and the switch pack is an almost perfect fit in that, just a small bit of trimming to get it sitting nice and flush. All it would need then is a bit of something on the sides to hide the edges.
So whilst I am slightly gutted about loosing the Vitesse, it does have a silver lining in a roundabout sort of way
I didn't want to take on a full resto after doing the Dolly last year, it was just supposed to be a quick do it up as you went along job, as it was supposed to have been all welded up a couple of years back, but it would appear they missed quite a few spots. The odd patch wasn't a problem, but this would need a total strip down, hours spent replacing rotten metal, and then yet another full respray, plus it would have turfed the Dolomite out the garage, so it would have sulked
I've had a play with seats and a few bits this afternoon, and I may have a plan forming
Rear base is spot on size wise, needs some fettling around trans tunnel
although the back rest is a bit too wide at the top.
There's a metal bar that runs across the top, along with some rods up the side, so I reckon with some careful cutting, the top at each end could be moved in an inch or so to allow it to fit, it currently won't squish up as the bars stop it.
Fronts are a great fit size wise, the Dolomite runners will bolt to the base of the Rover seat, then it will just need appropriate holes drilling in the floor, and them bolting in with some load spreading washers. In two minds whether to change it all for black and grey, all black, or just dye the seats brown. But as an idea.
If I can get the electric windows to fit in the doors too, then I have the perfect set up for the switches. An old DIN sized pocket is a perfect fit between console and dashtray, and the switch pack is an almost perfect fit in that, just a small bit of trimming to get it sitting nice and flush. All it would need then is a bit of something on the sides to hide the edges.
So whilst I am slightly gutted about loosing the Vitesse, it does have a silver lining in a roundabout sort of way
Re: An Rover. Vitesse.
Welcome to my world.mach1rob wrote:it was just supposed to be a quick do it up as you went along job
The seat base looks at home in there. Are you going to modify the back yourself?
Understeer: when you hit the wall with the front of the car.
Oversteer: when you hit the wall with the back of the car.
Horsepower: how fast you hit the wall.
Torque: how far you take the wall with you.
Oversteer: when you hit the wall with the back of the car.
Horsepower: how fast you hit the wall.
Torque: how far you take the wall with you.
Re: An Rover. Vitesse.
Best laid plans a all that! 
Yeah, shouldn't be too bad, use the Dremell to slice it in two, that should then allow each corner to be pushed in and around to fit the gap, and hopefully, the cover will pull round nicely too and not look pants, So a cut each side should do the trick, the small bars should bend to shape if needs be. I can then also use a bolt through said bar to secure seat back to the car, as I doubt the hooks on the back will fit the shelf on the Dolly, but I'll find out once I have a proper play. Unless I sell them, as someone on FB has been desperate for grey leathers from a Vanden Plas for years.
Yeah, shouldn't be too bad, use the Dremell to slice it in two, that should then allow each corner to be pushed in and around to fit the gap, and hopefully, the cover will pull round nicely too and not look pants, So a cut each side should do the trick, the small bars should bend to shape if needs be. I can then also use a bolt through said bar to secure seat back to the car, as I doubt the hooks on the back will fit the shelf on the Dolly, but I'll find out once I have a proper play. Unless I sell them, as someone on FB has been desperate for grey leathers from a Vanden Plas for years.
Re: An Rover. Vitesse.
That alone would make me want to do the jobmach1rob wrote:someone on FB has been desperate for grey leathers from a Vanden Plas for years
but I'd maybe swap the Chestnut door cards and carpet for some grey ones which, although the least common Dolly trim colour, are also less sought after so often (relatively speaking) come up in Triumph breakers' stock. Even easier to source if you forego originality and opt for the narrower teak caps and fit 1500 cards instead of Dolly ones. Or paint the seats chestnut to suit the Dolly, that's easy enough using either vinylkote or some of the expensive stuff from the likes of Heaton Coach Trimming.In fact I'm surprised that the person who's seeking seats wouldn't take a set of common (again relatively so) black ones, Vinylkote will actually make dark hide light and looks fine once it's all done.
J
"Home is where you park it", so the saying goes. That may yet come true..
"Home is where you park it", so the saying goes. That may yet come true..
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