kevin s's blog

Post pictures and stories about your cars both present and past. Also post up "blogs" on your restoration projects - the more pictures the better! Note: blog-type threads often get few replies, but are often read by many members, and provide interest and motivation to other enthusiasts so don't be disappointed if you don't get many replies.
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TerryG
Posts: 6754
Joined: Wed Jan 05, 2011 1:54 pm
Location: East Midlands

Re: kevin s's blog

#391 Post by TerryG » Fri Oct 30, 2015 4:32 pm

The hoses do corrode on to the radiator so it is possible that was the only way to remove it. It would be worth your while checking the threads on the radiator before ordering the hoses just to make sure they haven't been destroyed / removed.
I picked up a NOS radiator on Ebay for £50 last year so good ones do pop up at good prices. It's worth keeping your eyes pealed.
Understeer: when you hit the wall with the front of the car.
Oversteer: when you hit the wall with the back of the car.
Horsepower: how fast you hit the wall.
Torque: how far you take the wall with you.

kstrutt1
Posts: 516
Joined: Sat Oct 22, 2011 8:55 pm
Location: essex

Re: kevin s's blog

#392 Post by kstrutt1 » Sat Oct 31, 2015 11:43 pm

the thought that I could do more damage than good and leave myself with a stranded vehicle was why I didn't touch it last week, short term I am going to try fitting better clips, longer term I will think about new hoses, the leak is not that bad, it hasen't got to the dripping stage yet.

We used it this evening and all was going well until I got home, I keyed it off and then thought I wonder if the low ratio lever will move when the trans is hot and the alloy has expanded a bit, lo and behold it did free up, so I went to re-start it to see if low ratio actually worked to be greeted by an almighty bang, the lpg in the inlet has ignited and blown the inlet hose to pieces!

Something else to fix, hopefully when I fit the blos backfires will no longer be a problem, I think there may be an air leak somewhere on the induction side because when you turn it off you can smell gas and it is not coming out of the vaporiser or air intake. The cold start injector could also be part of the problem, someone has disconnected the fuel supply but left the electrical connected which will cause air to be drawn in on a start, I will plug this off as well, then spray some wd 40 around the running engine to see if I can find any more leaks.

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TerryG
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Joined: Wed Jan 05, 2011 1:54 pm
Location: East Midlands

Re: kevin s's blog

#393 Post by TerryG » Sun Nov 01, 2015 2:24 am

Mine used to do that when letting off from full throttle. A call to Tinley tech and they suggested fitting a bigger vapouriser which fixed the issue completely. You might want to try richening up the mix a bit if you can. There are lots of handy guides on how to do it but these guys: http://www.lpgforum.co.uk/ are the best LPG resource you could ask for. It is probably as simple as the system having been neglected and slipping out of adjustment / full of heavy ends so not reacting properly to changes in load.
Understeer: when you hit the wall with the front of the car.
Oversteer: when you hit the wall with the back of the car.
Horsepower: how fast you hit the wall.
Torque: how far you take the wall with you.

kstrutt1
Posts: 516
Joined: Sat Oct 22, 2011 8:55 pm
Location: essex

Re: kevin s's blog

#394 Post by kstrutt1 » Sun Nov 01, 2015 4:07 pm

It has done it twice now, once when it dropped to idle then I accelerated, the second time yesterday on a key off then re-start, it seems fine on full load. After the first time I richened it up a bit and it was fine for a couple of weeks, this time it had been idling for ages while I messed around getting a lower idle speed, I think it is more do with poor mixture control at low intake charge flow rates, for now I have taped up the split hose and increased the idle speed again, now it all seems fine, I will order a new hose, fit the blos and see how it goes from there.

The other thing I did notice is the orifice in the mixer is only a single hole of around 30mm, l have 2 of these on the tr! So I expect the perfomance will improve quite a bit with the blos, if the vaporiser is not up to the job this is when it will become evident though.

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TerryG
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Joined: Wed Jan 05, 2011 1:54 pm
Location: East Midlands

Re: kevin s's blog

#395 Post by TerryG » Mon Nov 02, 2015 12:00 am

Do you know how many miles it has covered since the LPG system was serviced last? the bellows could have gone brittle so aren't adjusting flow quickly enough or may have split so are not adjusting the mixture properly. Is the LPG outlet connected to the top or bottom of the vaporiser? if its connected to the top then i would put money on it being full of heavy ends and in serious need of cleaning out.
I have also known it happen due to vapouriser icing up, is your coolant level OK?
Understeer: when you hit the wall with the front of the car.
Oversteer: when you hit the wall with the back of the car.
Horsepower: how fast you hit the wall.
Torque: how far you take the wall with you.

kstrutt1
Posts: 516
Joined: Sat Oct 22, 2011 8:55 pm
Location: essex

Re: kevin s's blog

#396 Post by kstrutt1 » Mon Nov 02, 2015 6:27 pm

The vaporizer is only a few months old, the outlet is on the top, it is not icing up (hot to the touch) drove it to work today with the idle at 900 rpm and it drove perfectly, the idle speed is a bit variable which may be part of the problem, this is the old efi system with a thermo mechanical idle valve and drawing some of idle air through the crankcase breather, I plan to check the passages are all clear as they have a habit of clogging up as well.
If I were doing the conversion myself I would have used a omvl 2 stage vaporizer I had these on tr and the landrover and they worked really well, the tr will idle and pull away from 400rpm with no problems. The blos is supposed to work well with the single stage ones though so I will see how that goes first.

kstrutt1
Posts: 516
Joined: Sat Oct 22, 2011 8:55 pm
Location: essex

Re: kevin s's blog

#397 Post by kstrutt1 » Wed Nov 04, 2015 9:01 pm

I started digging around the drivers footwell of the range rover which looked pretty solid.

Turns out most of the solid area was filler!

so to add to the. List I need to replace the outer edge of the footwell, the kick panel and the outside 2 of inches of the wheelarch.

Looking at it positively it is not the end of the world as it saves me having to unpick loads of welds, instead I will cut virtually the whole corner away and start again.

The plan is to finish making the repair sections friday evening then try to find the time to start welding some in over the weekend.

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TerryG
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Joined: Wed Jan 05, 2011 1:54 pm
Location: East Midlands

Re: kevin s's blog

#398 Post by TerryG » Wed Nov 04, 2015 10:34 pm

It is amazing the "surprises" land rovers can hide. Is the body mount at the front of the sill OK?
Understeer: when you hit the wall with the front of the car.
Oversteer: when you hit the wall with the back of the car.
Horsepower: how fast you hit the wall.
Torque: how far you take the wall with you.

kstrutt1
Posts: 516
Joined: Sat Oct 22, 2011 8:55 pm
Location: essex

Re: kevin s's blog

#399 Post by kstrutt1 » Thu Nov 05, 2015 7:31 pm

The body mount is strong but begining to go, it has already been patched and the seams are begining to swell, I have already made a new inner sill / body mount / floor support section so will all be cut out and replaced.

kstrutt1
Posts: 516
Joined: Sat Oct 22, 2011 8:55 pm
Location: essex

Re: kevin s's blog

#400 Post by kstrutt1 » Fri Nov 06, 2015 2:45 pm

here are some pictures

the rust in the drivers footwell.
20151106_122443.jpg
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The inner body mount (the green is the filler someone had used to hide the rust), this looks pretty easy to drill out from the inside and plug weld in a replacement.
20151106_122513.jpg
20151106_122513.jpg (66.22 KiB) Viewed 3270 times
and this is the new end of the inner sill / body mount and floor support, mostly made from 4mm steel, which is only tacked together at the moment but will be seam welded eventually.
20151106_122558.jpg
20151106_122558.jpg (52.73 KiB) Viewed 3270 times
plan is to repair as far as about 300mm up from the floor on both sides for now and fill in any issues higher up this will enable me to MOT it and use it for the winter, then next summer I can take a month or so and remove both wings, the bonnet and cowl and do the upper areas.

I may need another sheet of steel before I finish though!

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