Could you not remove the screen using the "chese-wire" method? A bit time-consuming but pretty reliable - I've had the autoglass lads take a couple of screens out for me like that, so if you got some suiteable wire surely you could do it yourself? Might save some cash...
You've got your work cut out there Terry, I wish you sll the very best, and will be watching with great interest...
Cheers!
1994 Range Rover
Re: 1994 Range Rover
Some people are like Slinkies - they serve no useful purpose, but they still bring a smile to your face when you push them downstairs.
Re: 1994 Range Rover
I have seen them much worse but only as parts cars, not with an MOT. If I had bought it and found it that bad before investing as much time and energy as I have, it would probably be broken for spares.
The Disco 300 that my friendly local land rover man has sitting in his yard has a solid scuttle which barring the bonnet mounts is the same so I need to work out how to cut it off then I will have all the contoured parts ready to fix mine. There are 3 layers in places when poking at holes. I'm not sure if that means there are patches on the outside or if it should be like that. Tomorrow is grinding time! Then have another go at welding hopefully without cocking up and making more of a mess than was there in the first place.
The drivers side has a hole about the size of a 5p at the bottom plus some blistering that poking with a screwdriver didn't make dents / holes so I may be lucky.
The bit that concerns me is around the screen. The heater isn't working on the drivers side so it does need replacing but they are really expensive plus with it being bonded getting it out without breaking it will be a complete pain. I may go for a disco 200 / hard dash screen to replace it and fit it with rubbers.
I do have some bicycle brake cable so could have a go cutting the sealant with that. I do have a handy hole as a starting point
The Disco 300 that my friendly local land rover man has sitting in his yard has a solid scuttle which barring the bonnet mounts is the same so I need to work out how to cut it off then I will have all the contoured parts ready to fix mine. There are 3 layers in places when poking at holes. I'm not sure if that means there are patches on the outside or if it should be like that. Tomorrow is grinding time! Then have another go at welding hopefully without cocking up and making more of a mess than was there in the first place.
The drivers side has a hole about the size of a 5p at the bottom plus some blistering that poking with a screwdriver didn't make dents / holes so I may be lucky.
The bit that concerns me is around the screen. The heater isn't working on the drivers side so it does need replacing but they are really expensive plus with it being bonded getting it out without breaking it will be a complete pain. I may go for a disco 200 / hard dash screen to replace it and fit it with rubbers.
I do have some bicycle brake cable so could have a go cutting the sealant with that. I do have a handy hole as a starting point
Understeer: when you hit the wall with the front of the car.
Oversteer: when you hit the wall with the back of the car.
Horsepower: how fast you hit the wall.
Torque: how far you take the wall with you.
Oversteer: when you hit the wall with the back of the car.
Horsepower: how fast you hit the wall.
Torque: how far you take the wall with you.
Re: 1994 Range Rover
My grinder is dead 
not sure what has happened but it just blows fuses. I have had to resort to a dremmel for the work so far. Trip out tomorrow for a new one.
Lip where 2 panels used to join removed:
This is higher up the same seam where I have removed some really grotty "metal".
You can just about see in to the box section which runs from the A post to the front of the car. The U part of the box looks ok other than a bit of flaky surface rust which I suppose is a good thing. Just above where you see in to the box is a repair which has no paint on the inside so is rusting through. It is also not welded at the bottom so after a quick test, water is running through under it. I really love it when people fix things properly so they don't need doing again :S
The only purpose of the panel with captive nuts in it is re-enforcement where bolts come through. The majority of the holes are not used with my model so I will replace the bits I need and leave the rest out. As it is only riveted in place doubt it is doing anything structural.
This is what the outside looked like:
LOTS of sealer covering an absence of metal
Cutting started on the outside
As I can't get to much with the dremmel it will have to wait until tomorrow to cut out the worst of the crud.
This is a major pain in the bum. I can only imagine how much grief people go through to restore a whole car!
not sure what has happened but it just blows fuses. I have had to resort to a dremmel for the work so far. Trip out tomorrow for a new one.Lip where 2 panels used to join removed:
- lip removed.jpg (200.73 KiB) Viewed 3404 times
- started.jpg (163.58 KiB) Viewed 3404 times
The only purpose of the panel with captive nuts in it is re-enforcement where bolts come through. The majority of the holes are not used with my model so I will replace the bits I need and leave the rest out. As it is only riveted in place doubt it is doing anything structural.
This is what the outside looked like:
- outside1.jpg (171.06 KiB) Viewed 3404 times
- outside2.jpg (178.31 KiB) Viewed 3404 times
- outside3.jpg (163.25 KiB) Viewed 3404 times
- outside4.jpg (166.87 KiB) Viewed 3404 times
- outside cut1.jpg (153.91 KiB) Viewed 3404 times
This is a major pain in the bum. I can only imagine how much grief people go through to restore a whole car!
Understeer: when you hit the wall with the front of the car.
Oversteer: when you hit the wall with the back of the car.
Horsepower: how fast you hit the wall.
Torque: how far you take the wall with you.
Oversteer: when you hit the wall with the back of the car.
Horsepower: how fast you hit the wall.
Torque: how far you take the wall with you.
Re: 1994 Range Rover
That must be a very powerful Dremel to cut out all that - or did the rust just fall out 
I got a Makita Angle Grinder from Costco which seemed about £20 cheaper than most of the usual places - delivered for £40 - there is a small surcharge if you are not a member
http://www.costco.co.uk/view/product/uk ... 1.1/148620
Before I got the Costco promotional email a couple of weeks ago, I had thought of getting this one from the Derby branch of the store where you saw the Jag (is that the one at Ashbourne?)
http://www.homebase.co.uk/webapp/wcs/st ... ber=116544
Note that the Makita is half the weight of Fat Max - perhaps he needs to go on a diet
Mike
I got a Makita Angle Grinder from Costco which seemed about £20 cheaper than most of the usual places - delivered for £40 - there is a small surcharge if you are not a member
http://www.costco.co.uk/view/product/uk ... 1.1/148620
Before I got the Costco promotional email a couple of weeks ago, I had thought of getting this one from the Derby branch of the store where you saw the Jag (is that the one at Ashbourne?)
http://www.homebase.co.uk/webapp/wcs/st ... ber=116544
Note that the Makita is half the weight of Fat Max - perhaps he needs to go on a diet
Mike
Re: 1994 Range Rover
You must be local, lol. Yes, That is in Ashbourne. So were the traction engine and landy.
I am going to Machine Mart in the morning. They have a grinder for £19.99 +vat. I'll get some more cutting discs while I'm there as I suspect the 4 I have won't last long.
I have a dremmel 300 with one of these
It takes a while to get through but it gets there in the end. I would have cut out more but it isn't possible to get in with a 38mm disc where the panels are shaped.
I am going to Machine Mart in the morning. They have a grinder for £19.99 +vat. I'll get some more cutting discs while I'm there as I suspect the 4 I have won't last long.
I have a dremmel 300 with one of these
It takes a while to get through but it gets there in the end. I would have cut out more but it isn't possible to get in with a 38mm disc where the panels are shaped.
Understeer: when you hit the wall with the front of the car.
Oversteer: when you hit the wall with the back of the car.
Horsepower: how fast you hit the wall.
Torque: how far you take the wall with you.
Oversteer: when you hit the wall with the back of the car.
Horsepower: how fast you hit the wall.
Torque: how far you take the wall with you.
Re: 1994 Range Rover
Bit more work today.
I have cut out the rot I can get at from the outside and a bit more of the floor (while wire brushing the underseal off from below I have found another hole so will have to cut that square and weld it up tomorrow)
Removed a bodge patch, cut out the original rotten metal from behind it and cut out the rotten original metal from the arch behind it leaving the repair panel in place. I am going to let it dry out then rust kill and seal the join.
Floor with mild trimming:
The mig fary has had a go at filling it in. I don't think I have done too badly for my first proper go at welding in new metal 
That's it for now. I had to go and fix Houdini's hutch (the other half's rabbit) as he had eaten through the bottom of one of the doors.
I have cut out the rot I can get at from the outside and a bit more of the floor (while wire brushing the underseal off from below I have found another hole so will have to cut that square and weld it up tomorrow)
- cut out.jpg (159.79 KiB) Viewed 3380 times
- cut out 2.jpg (145.87 KiB) Viewed 3380 times
- before.jpg (139.02 KiB) Viewed 3380 times
- after.jpg (177.39 KiB) Viewed 3380 times
Understeer: when you hit the wall with the front of the car.
Oversteer: when you hit the wall with the back of the car.
Horsepower: how fast you hit the wall.
Torque: how far you take the wall with you.
Oversteer: when you hit the wall with the back of the car.
Horsepower: how fast you hit the wall.
Torque: how far you take the wall with you.
Re: 1994 Range Rover
Mickleover - so depending on where you are then not too far away . . . . . . .TerryG wrote:You must be local
Suggest you use the welder on Houdini's hutch - would need strong teeth to chew through steel
Good progress - and I'm learning from every photo so thanks for that - one day instead of being an armchair enthusiast I might just get off my *r$* and do something
Mike
Re: 1994 Range Rover
Not very far away then, I am by Rocester.
Bonnet and scuttle off again.
This is the bodge patch
this is what it was hiding
I may have got a bit carried away with the grinder........
I have also drilled out all the spots holding the U section to whatever the panel I am cutting out is called.
The U is not as solid as I first thought. I have found several very thin sections which I have cut out.
When my pack of 1mm cutting discs arrive tomorrow I will cut out the very rotten bit and make up a repair.
Bonnet and scuttle off again.
This is the bodge patch
- bodge.jpg (171.02 KiB) Viewed 3352 times
- hidden.jpg (201.08 KiB) Viewed 3352 times
- grind away.jpg (157.61 KiB) Viewed 3352 times
The U is not as solid as I first thought. I have found several very thin sections which I have cut out.
When my pack of 1mm cutting discs arrive tomorrow I will cut out the very rotten bit and make up a repair.
Understeer: when you hit the wall with the front of the car.
Oversteer: when you hit the wall with the back of the car.
Horsepower: how fast you hit the wall.
Torque: how far you take the wall with you.
Oversteer: when you hit the wall with the back of the car.
Horsepower: how fast you hit the wall.
Torque: how far you take the wall with you.
Re: 1994 Range Rover
Here's todays instalment
Started removing some more grotty metal:
This is the pile of rusty scrap left on the floor afterwards
I have made up several cardboard templates of what I need to make from steel
The largest panel I have now cut out of metal ready to weld in tomorrow, I have 3 small ones to make which will be easier to fit if I do them first.
I did weld in a bit of new metal today, not as much as planned but I'm getting there slowly.
Tomorrows jobs will involve making up some panels and tacking the lot in place. Hopefully they will fit fairly well and I can weld them in permanently.
I have found another windscreen just in case I manage to ruin this one. Before I go as far as taking it out, access to the space I need to weld in is actually quite good so I am going to leave it where it is and have a go welding new metal in first. Fingers crossed I won't have to go as far as cutting it out as It does not look like a fun job.
Started removing some more grotty metal:
- more cutting.jpg (197.66 KiB) Viewed 3338 times
- trimmings.jpg (280.1 KiB) Viewed 3338 times
- breakfast.jpg (139.02 KiB) Viewed 3338 times
I did weld in a bit of new metal today, not as much as planned but I'm getting there slowly.
- new metal.jpg (157.07 KiB) Viewed 3338 times
I have found another windscreen just in case I manage to ruin this one. Before I go as far as taking it out, access to the space I need to weld in is actually quite good so I am going to leave it where it is and have a go welding new metal in first. Fingers crossed I won't have to go as far as cutting it out as It does not look like a fun job.
Understeer: when you hit the wall with the front of the car.
Oversteer: when you hit the wall with the back of the car.
Horsepower: how fast you hit the wall.
Torque: how far you take the wall with you.
Oversteer: when you hit the wall with the back of the car.
Horsepower: how fast you hit the wall.
Torque: how far you take the wall with you.
Re: 1994 Range Rover
That'd be great it you can leave the screen in, but beware - protect it from weld splatter and grinding sparks. Both will embed themselves into the glass and you'll NEVER get them out! Ask me how I know.....
I use a wet towel or sheet of cardboard etc. to screen off any glass.
You're doing well there Terry - keep it up!
Cheers
I use a wet towel or sheet of cardboard etc. to screen off any glass.
You're doing well there Terry - keep it up!
Cheers
Some people are like Slinkies - they serve no useful purpose, but they still bring a smile to your face when you push them downstairs.
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