1994 Range Rover

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tractorman
Posts: 1399
Joined: Mon Feb 21, 2011 11:22 am
Location: Wigton, Cumbria

Re: 1994 Range Rover

#171 Post by tractorman » Mon Mar 31, 2014 10:43 am

I thought you were from farming folk Terry. There are two methods of securing the pipes - baler twine and a bit of old fence wire (flatten the barbs first!).

Perhaps a local hydraulic hose supplier may be able to help. Though not exactly what you want (and in large quantities), these people may help:

http://www.aerohydraulics.com/default.aspx

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TerryG
Posts: 6754
Joined: Wed Jan 05, 2011 1:54 pm
Location: East Midlands

Re: 1994 Range Rover

#172 Post by TerryG » Mon Mar 31, 2014 10:56 am

I have thought of a simple solution :) P clips are available in all sizes so i have ordered a bag (of 10) that are the correct size and I'll put two together with a bolt through the mounting holes. Simple and cheap.
I have spent most of the morning looking at hose clips / clamps / mountings (it's always better surfing the net at work so you are paid to do it) and i can't find anything that looks like the part i need. I may ask at the ford parts counter when i am in next to see if they know.
Understeer: when you hit the wall with the front of the car.
Oversteer: when you hit the wall with the back of the car.
Horsepower: how fast you hit the wall.
Torque: how far you take the wall with you.

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JPB
Posts: 10319
Joined: Fri Jan 07, 2011 3:24 pm

Re: 1994 Range Rover

#173 Post by JPB » Mon Mar 31, 2014 6:38 pm

TerryG wrote: I may ask at the ford parts counter when i am in next....
:shock: :?

I've had overpriced suits and uncomfortable shoes from them but had no idea that they sell car parts! ;)

Sorry, I guess I should run away again after that one. :oops:
J
"Home is where you park it", so the saying goes. That may yet come true.. :oops:

rich.
Posts: 6804
Joined: Wed Jan 05, 2011 9:18 pm

Re: 1994 Range Rover

#174 Post by rich. » Mon Mar 31, 2014 7:19 pm

JPB wrote:
TerryG wrote: I may ask at the ford parts counter when i am in next....
:shock: :?

I've had overpriced suits and uncomfortable shoes ! ;)

Sorry, I guess I should run away again after that one. :oops:
i thought you were that way inclined but didnt like to say :lol: :lol: :lol:

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TerryG
Posts: 6754
Joined: Wed Jan 05, 2011 1:54 pm
Location: East Midlands

Re: 1994 Range Rover

#175 Post by TerryG » Sat Apr 05, 2014 9:49 pm

A bit of fiddling today, I turned my distributor round by 180 degrees so I could put my HT leads on the right plug (they are numbered and some were too short with it in the direction it was). Before any silly comments arrive, I removed it, turned the shaft around then put it back in.
I have got a cheapo ebay endoscope which meant I could see why setting the timing was impossible with a light and had to be done "by ear"
This is with 1 on TDC:
timing-small.jpg
timing-small.jpg (100.82 KiB) Viewed 957 times
The timing mark on my crank pulley is out a tad.
It now has a spot of paint on it in the correct place.
Understeer: when you hit the wall with the front of the car.
Oversteer: when you hit the wall with the back of the car.
Horsepower: how fast you hit the wall.
Torque: how far you take the wall with you.

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TerryG
Posts: 6754
Joined: Wed Jan 05, 2011 1:54 pm
Location: East Midlands

Re: 1994 Range Rover

#176 Post by TerryG » Wed Apr 23, 2014 6:36 pm

SWMBO is working late tonight so I have been outside and fitted a new alternator and put some PAS fluid in (I swapped a hose that has been weeping since I bought the car) then gone for a spin around the block.
now I have an exhaust leak.
Understeer: when you hit the wall with the front of the car.
Oversteer: when you hit the wall with the back of the car.
Horsepower: how fast you hit the wall.
Torque: how far you take the wall with you.

Richard Moss
Posts: 425
Joined: Wed Jan 05, 2011 5:09 pm

Re: 1994 Range Rover

#177 Post by Richard Moss » Wed Apr 23, 2014 8:35 pm

TerryG wrote:SWMBO is working late tonight so I have been outside and fitted a new alternator and put some PAS fluid in (I swapped a hose that has been weeping since I bought the car) then gone for a spin around the block.
now I have an exhaust leak.
I have a Jeep that behaves like that (1995 Cherokee). I can't keep the bastard serviceable long enough to sell it!

rich.
Posts: 6804
Joined: Wed Jan 05, 2011 9:18 pm

Re: 1994 Range Rover

#178 Post by rich. » Wed Apr 23, 2014 9:10 pm

probably both built by the chap who slung my galaxy together.... although i shouldnt complain, its not that bad a motor... :D

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TerryG
Posts: 6754
Joined: Wed Jan 05, 2011 1:54 pm
Location: East Midlands

Re: 1994 Range Rover

#179 Post by TerryG » Sun May 11, 2014 10:14 pm

Over the past few weekends I have been prepairing some replacement rear doors for my car as the ones fitted have rotted out at the bottom (it is a common LSE rot spot)
One door is now in primer ready for some nice green paint,
the other has had a paint reaction:
reaction1.jpg
reaction1.jpg (111.57 KiB) Viewed 890 times
I wiped the area with some cellulose thinners to remove the primer and hopefully whatever had caused the reaction under it and the blue paint underneath came off
reaction2.jpg
reaction2.jpg (105.02 KiB) Viewed 890 times
I will clean it up tomorrow and try painting just that area again to see what happens otherwise I will have to sand the whole door back to metal.
Understeer: when you hit the wall with the front of the car.
Oversteer: when you hit the wall with the back of the car.
Horsepower: how fast you hit the wall.
Torque: how far you take the wall with you.

kstrutt1
Posts: 516
Joined: Sat Oct 22, 2011 8:55 pm
Location: essex

Re: 1994 Range Rover

#180 Post by kstrutt1 » Mon May 12, 2014 11:54 am

The other option is to flat it back to the non reacted paint, give it a coat of barcoat then prime and topcoat s normal.

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