1994 Range Rover

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Fatbloke
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Joined: Mon Apr 14, 2014 3:50 pm
Location: Royal Wootton Bassett

Re: 1994 Range Rover

#191 Post by Fatbloke » Mon Jun 16, 2014 3:55 pm

Wow! a Truly heroric weldathon Terry! :shock: And if you don't mind me saying so...Just showing off! ;)
Mike.

A Fatbloke in a Herald

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SirTainleyBarking
Posts: 413
Joined: Mon Feb 14, 2011 12:41 am
Location: Solihull, where Landrovers come from

Re: 1994 Range Rover

#192 Post by SirTainleyBarking » Mon Jun 16, 2014 7:10 pm

TerryG wrote: The rear seat which I was able to remove the seatbelt anchor for by pressing it out with my fingers is where my mother-in-law sat most Sundays for the last year or so!
I have added seatbelt tests to my weekly car checks.
It is truly amazing how it has gone through it's last few MOTs as it can't have got to this stage in less than a year.
Found the same with the drivers side rear belt mounting through the wing tub of my disco. looked fine, and was MOT'd like that twice until I thought "there's a bit of surface corrosion there, I'll just use this drill mounted scotchbrite disc to clean it back and rustproof...."

Ended up welding in a 4"x3" plate to replace some very crunchy metal, and added a lot of seam sealer and underseal, as I didn't want to touch it again.

Funny thing was it got looked over very closely judging by the witness marks of the corrosion tapper when it went in for the MOT a couple of months later.

On the plus side it's a 2 door so at least I didn't have to rebuild a door shut and sill :roll:
Landrovers and Welding go together like Bread and Butter. And in the wet they are about as structurally sound

Biting. It's like kissing except there's a winner

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TerryG
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Location: East Midlands

Re: 1994 Range Rover

#193 Post by TerryG » Mon Jun 16, 2014 7:56 pm

The 2 door discos are getting rare. I can't think the last time I saw one.

Pics when I get back in from the garage (fixing the rabbit cage AGAIN, damn thing) but in the hour before SWMBO got home I put a new outer edge on the wheel arch and measured up the big hole in the floor to make the first couple of repair sections. I think I will need at least 6 but I will do the big 2 first.
(I am avoiding the inner arch with it's curves until last as if anything is going to get stuffed up it will be that and then I won't feel like doing any more)

Then I have to do it all over again on the other side. At least I know how easy it is to get a rear wing off now.
Understeer: when you hit the wall with the front of the car.
Oversteer: when you hit the wall with the back of the car.
Horsepower: how fast you hit the wall.
Torque: how far you take the wall with you.

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TerryG
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Location: East Midlands

Re: 1994 Range Rover

#194 Post by TerryG » Fri Jun 20, 2014 9:13 pm

Work is slowly going on through the evenings with me making up repair panels to weld on at the weekend.
As I have one rear wing off I thought I would clean it up, fix the paint (some small blisters) ready to put it back on once I have welded up all that is behind it.
Unfortunately the rear corner is quite rusty inside, outside it looked OK but inside it is rotten. for a bit of pressed metal, the O/S is £125 and the N/S is £155 both plus VAT and delivery.
Bearing that in mind I have spent about 100 years with a grinder trying to clean it up. Pitted metal is a complete pain in the bum to try and clean!
Understeer: when you hit the wall with the front of the car.
Oversteer: when you hit the wall with the back of the car.
Horsepower: how fast you hit the wall.
Torque: how far you take the wall with you.

rich.
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Re: 1994 Range Rover

#195 Post by rich. » Sat Jun 21, 2014 7:22 am

good luck :D

zipgun
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Location: Crowborough

Re: 1994 Range Rover

#196 Post by zipgun » Sat Jun 21, 2014 9:51 pm


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TerryG
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Location: East Midlands

Re: 1994 Range Rover

#197 Post by TerryG » Sat Jun 21, 2014 10:20 pm

They are indeed. Something Buick got right designing the engine was to include hydraulic tappets.
I would be tempted if I was doing another engine build, Normally when you buy a cam, you get the tappets with as you should change them together.
Understeer: when you hit the wall with the front of the car.
Oversteer: when you hit the wall with the back of the car.
Horsepower: how fast you hit the wall.
Torque: how far you take the wall with you.

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TerryG
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Joined: Wed Jan 05, 2011 1:54 pm
Location: East Midlands

Re: 1994 Range Rover

#198 Post by TerryG » Wed Jun 25, 2014 12:08 pm

I just had to have a read through to see where I was up to.
SWMBO insists that I have higher priorities than the car (mainly painting) so I haven't managed any full days on it but have an extra 2 days off next month hopefully to finish fixing this bit (I won't say finishing the car as I know I will find something else next week)
I have got further along than this but my phone is being a PITA and won't let me copy off any new pictures
Anyway,
This is the NSR corner/light box
corner1.jpg
corner1.jpg (347.8 KiB) Viewed 2004 times
A bit scruffy on the outside
ruined on the inside
corner2.jpg
corner2.jpg (267.44 KiB) Viewed 2004 times
So I had to make up a new piece
corner3.jpg
corner3.jpg (577.4 KiB) Viewed 2004 times
Drill out the old one, clean up the rust and weld it in
corner4.jpg
corner4.jpg (595.96 KiB) Viewed 2004 times
While cleaning it up for painting, I discovered the car has been resprayed once before
paint.jpg
paint.jpg (156.79 KiB) Viewed 2004 times
I also made up some floor / wheel arch repair sections which are now welded in.
floor1.jpg
floor1.jpg (259.09 KiB) Viewed 2004 times
There are other bits welding such as 90% of the wheel arch now being solid again that are done. Pics to follow shortly.
Understeer: when you hit the wall with the front of the car.
Oversteer: when you hit the wall with the back of the car.
Horsepower: how fast you hit the wall.
Torque: how far you take the wall with you.

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TerryG
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Location: East Midlands

Re: 1994 Range Rover

#199 Post by TerryG » Mon Aug 18, 2014 8:16 am

Mainly due to the weather and other jobs getting in the way, I have not done as much on the RR as I would have liked. Not pictured here but the wing and light box for the near side are both repaired, painted and ready to go back on. The drivers side still needs work as there was much more corrosion.
Progress with pictures. After earlier deciding I would try just to repair the rust damage leaving the floor in place, there was so much grot the more I trimmed the more I found so I got annoyed and just ripped the whole thing out.
boot floor out.jpg
boot floor out.jpg (194.89 KiB) Viewed 1964 times
Just as well I did as underneath some chassis issues were revealed (both sides are the same so I will only post images of one)
chassis rot.jpg
chassis rot.jpg (183.14 KiB) Viewed 1964 times
To get at this I had to take part of the rear floor out. Just as well I did as this is rotten too (not pictured)
but it allowed me good access to attack and re-create a rather important bit normally hidden.
chassis cut out.jpg
chassis cut out.jpg (185.8 KiB) Viewed 1964 times
chassis patch 1.jpg
chassis patch 1.jpg (142.07 KiB) Viewed 1964 times
chassis patch 2.jpg
chassis patch 2.jpg (181.45 KiB) Viewed 1964 times
Not the tidiest job in the world but given the silly angles I have had to work at, I don't think it's too bad. it passed the "whack it with a hammer and see if it falls off" test ;)

I haven't got as far as completely repairing the drivers side but the top of the chassis itself is now solid.
I have also started wire brushing and k-rusting the original chassis as you can see in the pictures it is a bit flaky but bashing it with a hammer shows it to be solid.

Parts made / collected:
new boot floor and extension to replace the patchwork of metal that was there
lower rear tailgate seal mount
z sections to replace the corroded lip that the boot floor sits on
rear seatbelt bushes and mountings
all new brake flexi-pipes (the rear ones have unions made entirely of rust)
lots of grommets, P clips and cable clips.

Lots of 1.2, 3 and 5mm steel.

Still to get:
New LPG plumbing and a vertical 720x250 tank (if I can find one) with 2 smaller tanks under the rear quarters.

Next jobs:
Finish an identical repair on the other side of the chassis
brush off, rust treat and paint as much of the chassis as I can while I have good access to the top
weld in new mountings then re-fit the rear and boot floors
repair the drivers side rear wing and light box then re-fit
sort out the joke of an LPG system and re-fit the pipework more securely than a couple of screws and p-clips in to the sills.
All hopefully before winter :S
Understeer: when you hit the wall with the front of the car.
Oversteer: when you hit the wall with the back of the car.
Horsepower: how fast you hit the wall.
Torque: how far you take the wall with you.

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Luxobarge
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Joined: Wed Jan 05, 2011 3:12 pm
Location: Horne, Surreyshire

Re: 1994 Range Rover

#200 Post by Luxobarge » Mon Aug 18, 2014 8:23 am

I've said it before but I feel the need to say it again - your patience and tenacity on this car are beyond belief Terry, good for you for sticking with it and not giving up. It seems everywhere you turn you find more rust, but you just get on with it and deal with it! Keep it up, you're gonna have to run out of rust eventually.....

May I also say your welding and metal fabrication skills are getting to be pretty good these days too!

Cheers bud. :D
Some people are like Slinkies - they serve no useful purpose, but they still bring a smile to your face when you push them downstairs.

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